Author: Forum News

Havent posted much, as I have been working on getting the 2008 650 Outlander I purchased all fixed up. A lot of work probably wasnt a must, but it will be a great peace of mind when I am numerous miles away from the truck. I will say however, the deeper you dig, the more things you will find to fix. Just wanted to let everyone know how much I appreciate all the support and answers to my hundreds of questions, you guys have been great.

Hi guys,
Anyone done a revalve job on the Fox shocks or even just changed the oil?
Thinking of upgrade the front shocks most because I feel the rebound on the stockers are a bit lame and feel a nicely set up Fox would do the trick as I don't actually ride that hard just feel the front bounce back a bit too fast after a hard compression. Still want that plush feeling when riding real slow in difficult terrain.

I just changed my primary clutch and it still doesn’t seem to be reaching top speed. I haven’t changed the belt but what else could I do to fix the issue. I’ve been recommended to change back to the old weights put the issue was already present with the old primary. The new primary helped the situation but still not fast enough, I think.

I just changed my primary clutch and it still doesn’t seem to be reaching top speed. I haven’t changed the belt but what else could I do to fix the issue. I’ve been recommended to change back to the old weights put the issue was already present with the old primary. The new primary helped the situation but still not fast enough, I think.

Hey guys,


my 2017 can am outlander 850 XT has just over 500 miles on it.


Time for the first oil change/diff/trans changes?





Our 2008 kawaski brute force 750 is much easier... LOL no pannel removing. I do have to remove the custom hitch receiver for the rear diff though.





I'm going over the book, picked up the oil filter and o-rings, oil pan crush washer, oil, and 2 bottles of diff fluid (75w90 and 75w140).


Oil cartridge filter replacement looks fairly easy, but messy, looks like I have to pull the right side panel off to get to the cartridge... lame


Oil drain and fill looks simple enough, 2.1 quarts I think I heard the guy say?



trans change, appears to be behind the same side panel/footrest (right side) cant see drain or fill but I didn't crawl under, 75W140?



Front diff, I see the fill, but not the drain... drain and fill to where it starts coming out. 75w90



Rear diff, I see the fill and drain... drain and fill to where it starts coming out 75w140?



In each change I'll clean the drain plugs magnets.


Front diff fill (drain is???), and the bottom pic is the rear diff fill and drain, angle is funny...

I have a 1995 425 Magnum 4x4. Had it about 3 months now, bought for my daughter to drive to neighbor's farm to work. It never idled very well and smelled heavily of gasoline. I figured I would eventually get around to trying to rebuild the carburetor. There was never any visible gas leaking anywhere but it would smell like gasoline pretty bad right after it was run for awhile. It was also getting progressively more difficult to start. You would have to hold the throttle in a little bit to get it to start as well. When cold it would also need the choke on for the first few pulls.

ATV refused to start at all 2 weeks ago. I ordered a carb rebuild kit off e-bay. Last week I went to rebuild the carb and it was going well until I went to put the new main jet in. I barely started screwing it in and all of a sudden it sheared in half. Turns out this crappy jet was not even brass. It was some crappy pot metal with a brass colored coating. So then i was stuck with a sheared off piece in the carburetor body which I had no way of removing. I went on ebay again and ordered a new carb for $40 and the place that I bought the rebuild kit from paid for it.

I put the new carburetor in. Nothing in the box at all with this carburetor, just the carburetor wrapped in plastic. Identical to the old one.

Got it all hooked up and replaced a few fuel lines that were bad as well and also added an inline fuel filter. Turned the gas on and gave the recoil a pull. It started on the first pull but ran at a low crappy idle for about 8 seconds then quit.

From that point on I have been unable to get it to start or even pop off at all. I checked to make sure the carb is getting fuel and it is. I took the fuel inlet line off the carb and pulled the recoil a few times and each time gas would come out indicating that the fuel pump is sending gas to the carb.

I messaged the place on ebay asking whether the carb needed any adjustment before installation and all I get are these dumb demands back like, "send us a video of the problem". So now I'm wondering if they even understand english.

So, if the carb is getting gasoline and it idled crappy when I first pulled the recoil that indicates there is spark.

Where do you start? Take it back off and check the idle screw inside?

There is absolutely no smell of gasoline no matter how many times I pull the recoil and it doesn't matter whether I use choke or not.

Any ideas let me know!

Thanks!

Do I a special tool to replace the fuel gauge? 2011 Trail Boss 330

I have 3 ATVs to choose from for my first one

A 2006 Sportsman 450 with 1200 miles (Plus winch and plow)

A 2000 Sportsman 500 with 850 miles

A 2000 Sportsman with 1200 miles (plus winch + plow)

They are on about the same price

What are the Pros and Cons for each model

The newer 450 seems like a better deal but is there a reason folks avoid those?

I need it to haul a couple of kids around on camping and hunting trips.

We are planning on going riding in Colorado in August. My dad owns a 2016 Polaris Ranger 900 crew. We are planning on taking my 2 and 3 year old in the ranger. We are trying to find the best way to secure the kids so they are comfortable in car seats with helmets. Does anyone recommend a certain type of carseat that works best with Rangers? Any help will be greatly appreciated.