Rear Upper A -arm play?

Wife had a flat on the trail Saturday, got it up on a cooler to get bead back on the rim. This on a '10 Sportsman X2. Noticed a lot of play and figured a wheel bearing. Did not pull wheel off until today and guess what, the play was in the upper A-arm where it bolts to the axle carrier. Well good news don't have to do bearings, will return em to dealer. The long bolt was not "tight" and locnut probably only had less then a turn to get tight. I pulled apart to see if A-arms had wallered out or was egg shaped and they seemed good. I greased bushings back up and reassembled. Other side same thing. The grease was not all the way thru the bushings evenly on both sides either. Need to pick up a 90 degree grease zerk fitting for grease gun.

I guess what I am getting at is there a recommended torque for those bolts. I tightened down till they were tight and no play. Wonder if too tight? Really thinking if I should tear apart all bushings and grease them also so I know they are not dry. Most of them I greased only had it coming out of one side. Thanks

CV Joint Assembly

I was looking for info on how to reinstall the bearing cages on the inner CV joint for the front axle of my '15 570. I couldn't find anything specific.

I didn't pay attention when I took it apart so I was scratching my head when I noticed that both cages are directional.

I had the other axle off so I just pulled the boot back to double check.

Anyways, here are some photos.

This side faces down into the cup.



This side faces up, out of the cup. Notice the grooves for ball bearing are cut closer to the center of the cage on this side



This side faces down into the cup.



This side faces up, out of the cup. Notice the inside edge of the race has a large chamfer. The other side does not.



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Water in fuel

2007 polaris 500 efi 4x4 got flooded from hurricane Harvey. My dumb self cranked it and it drove about 15 yards then died. It will turn over but will not crank what to do?

2000 Polaris scrambler 90

Ok so this is my first time posting on here so thank you in advance to any help and advice I might receive from y'all. So I picked up a 2000 Polaris scrambler 90 and I can't get it to run for nothing. It will run if I spray starter fluid in carb but will die out. I've taken the carb off and cleaned it several times, everything is working like it should inside it that I can tell. I'm getting fuel to the carb just fine. It's got good spark. The compression read 90psi. I've read that anything less than 100 isn't enough and I've read that as long as it's above 85 it should be fine so I'm not sure about that. It's got a brand new battery plus I put fresh gas in it. The plug is brand new and is never soaked in fuel from trying to start it. I did tighten the throttle cable up and it started without any starter fluid but died again. I'm wondering if raising or lowering the needle would make a difference. I do know the brake lever has to be engaged when tryin to start it. I don't know much about these. The only thing I've done similar to this was rebuild a Yamaha pw80 with a new top end and carb so I'm not completely blinded by this but I could deff use some help. Again thanks in advance

Rear of the outty is a little shaky!

Hey guys. I have a 2011 Max 650 outty. As we do a lot of riding on hard pack, i decided to adjust the stock suspension on it. The first one i adusted went smoothly but the second one broke on me. The things that you need to turn simply went in pieces. So to address this, i bought Elka Stage 3 which i should receive shortly. However, while adjusting the suspension I found out that my exhaust was fairly loose. The screw holding it to the frame were totally loose. I also notice that the rear section of the atv was also a little loose / shaky. As if the rear part of the ATV was detached from the frame. Part of it is holding through the screws that holds the exhaust. But two other screws are holding it ad well just under / behind the passanfer seat. Im going to try to make my way there to see if something is up but I am not sure yet. Has anyone experienced that before and if yes, how did you fix it?

Front axle removal

I'm replacing wheel bearings on all 4 corners of my 570. One of my front axles came apart in the inner boot while trying to remove it.

I can seem to get it back together. I can get it out.

I have the axle removed from the opposite side. Can I put a drift in there and tap the other one out through the diff? Or, is there some kind of plate separating them. I can't really tell.

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T-Map Sensor code

I'm in need of technical help as I just started to get 102-3 code on my 2010 550XP. SO I found out where this was located to check wires at plug by wiggling them to see if there's any change in idle which there wasn't. I then disconnected plug and gave both sides a good shot of electronic cleaner and plugged back in. Still everything the same. I then took a better look at the sensor and it appears there should be a screw thru the one ear of the sensor to hold it down.. I have nothing.. Question I have I see theres a metal ring or copper or bronze colored inside both ears. Is this sensor grounded to engine with the hold down screw? Could this be my problem? I don't see a screw listed on parts diagram so not sure I'm even close to the issue. Can these be ohm tested or checked in any manner?

THanks in advance

Metal valve cover swap questions

I ordered the metal valve cover for my 05 sportsman 700 twin. Do I reuse the old "reed" parts or use the new ones that came with it? The new ones don't have a reed.

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