Author: Forum News

Looks like I should probably do full replacement of the primary drive clutch. One of the spacers/bushings somehow came out and flew around inside the housing. Chewed, dinged, scratched and took bites out of just about everything. Somehow the driven clutch survived and looks to be OK.

Looking for the best price for a new drive clutch and any advice, what to look for when putting it back on. Best I've found for OEM is $590 for the clutch, springs and weights. Also found an aftermarket for about $175 but is out of stock. Kinda need to get this done soon. Are there any places to get used parts, or is that asking for trouble?

I've seen quite a few videos that are helpful, looks fairly simple.

Basically, use the wheeler at the deer lease, easy riding. Got it buried this past spring and really got down on it while pulling a heavy trailer, thinking that's what caused the problems.

Thanks!

Hello everyone

Just joined and looking for some advice, help, guidance and best prices on parts for some repairs.

Live in TX, hunt in MO, ride a 2001 Sportsman 500 HO. Bought it used, runs like a scalded ape, yet starting to have to fix another person's problems.

So I probably won't be an active member all the time, will chime in on my experiences and ask for a little help. Hope that's cool with everyone. . .

Thanks in advance
Gary

First off its a 2014 Sportsman 570 with lil over 1000 miles and 125 hrs. I still have the stock battery which I plan on replacing. The issue that just started is I've got a check engine light with an error code 0520230 31 along with it dying occasionally on startup or even when riding randomly. I did test the battery and it was 12.4 not running and 14.2 running. I noticed a couple of times once started its was actually 11.2 when running then fan turned on and it jumped back to 14.2 volts. I plan on pulling the battery and having it tested. I'm hoping its not the voltage regulator or stator. I did check the 3 yellow wires and it did burn through the heat shield a bit but not through the stator wires from what I can tell. Anyone have an experience with this issue or advice... any input be appreciated.

Is anyone running 28-9-14 in front and 28-11-14 zillas in the rear? I was wondering how much rubbing or fender trimming is needed. I have a 16 outlander max 1000 xt-p. Looking at getting these tires on 14x7 rims. I searched but didn't find much info. Thanks

It looks like a lot of the threads I started have somehow been deleted. I recently asked for advice concerning three large wires under the seat that were smoking and the connector melting. The advice I got here was spot on and an easy fix. I got some much heavier wire and used it to replace the wires from the regulator to the connector under the seat. I used a terminal block the replace the original plug and socket so any heat would not effect it anyway. I also used a connector block at the regulator end leaving about 1" of the original wire. It did not get warm when I tested it.

Thanks again.

Picture attached of the new connector and wires:

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So I have a Sporty 850SP, 2017 model. I swapped out the stock tires for some SunF AO33's, in 27x11x14 for the rear and 27x9x14 for the front.

They are very chunky and they have good grip and all, but they are very heavy. You can feel it going down the trail, how they are way out of balance at higher speeds, and I also noticed a drop in power and acceleration off the line.

Here are the tires and specs, although they do not list weight.

https://www.sunf.com/products/a033?variant=44857069069

I am considering going back to a stock 26" set of tires, but I want something that still grips well, rolls nicer and isn't as heavy. While I like the added clearance and grip of these things, I immediately noticed the drop in acceleration and handling became a little compromised.

I know that the stock Carlisles are pretty light, but they are not stellar in the grip dept.

I don't want to spend a ton of money, and I plan to sell these tires, probably to someone that has a larger UTV that won't notice the weight as much.

Suggestions? Also, does it make sense to get the same size tires all the way around? Maybe a 9" wide tire? The stock front is 8 and the rear as back, so while the back would be a little narrower than stock, the front would be a little wider. I am not worried about it making the steering heavier, as it has 9's on the front now and it's fine with the power steering.

Suggestions? My main goal here is to get my performance and handling back, even if that means I have to go back to stock ride height and lost a little grip...

2012 stock 1000 Outlander I know about the bracket the Triangular bracket front right under steering column.
Those are 6 mm half inch non threaded bosses in that bracket.
So you need to find a 6 mm self threading screw?
Different than a self-tapping screw?
And what's the deal with the heater hose coming off the heads it's in the way of the contactor being mounted there on the 1000.
Everything else I see on the internet they don't have that hose there what am I doing wrong.
Do I pull the hoses away a little bit there is a bracket that holds them try to adjust that stock bracket that holds the hoses?
Any and all help would greatly be appreciated thank you and have a great day.

On my atv I Stripped my front sprocket about a year ago and after replacing the chain and all I keep having trouble with my chain coming loose and having to keep tightening it more than usual.