Author: Forum News

Greetings! I am working my way through the maintenance items on my atv and find nothing on the eps other than keeping the unit clean. Is that it? I've changed all the fluids, fresh grease, new filters etc... A visual inspection of the eps shows it to be free of dirt and grime. I've not had any problems with the system but was thinking after three years of maintenance just "keeping it clean" doesn't sound right. So, am I good to go? Thanks in advance!!

anyone use the john deere parts for the hilliard clutch parts? Ive seen a bunch of forums about it and it seems like most people using them are for the hilliard clutch in the differential. Anyone know if the john deere parts are available for the hilliards in the hubs?

I made a thread last year on how to replace all the chains on my 1995 Xplorer. Well Photobucket will not allow my pics to be shown, so that thread is dead! I threw a chain and made a video of replacing it. I plan to add more as the thing breaks and needs maintenance.


Replacing the chain:



After that you need to set the tension. Plus every 100 miles or so you need to check it again.


I just winged it, so there are a few terms I use wrong (wrench over ratchet, washer vs o-ring). Oh well.

Anybody using the Fitch fuel catalyst?... I have been thinking about trying it out but never have.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I recently replaced stator on my 2001 XT. In the process, I had to straighten the shift pawl mechanism, which I bent on disassembly. I'm pretty sure I have that back in place and operating properly. But I find that there are only 2-3 gear indexes possible when I ratchet that mechanism. It feels like something has shifted in the main gearbox and will not reset
Without power to the clutch mechanism or something. I am hesitant to put everything together again and find I should have reset something...advice appreciated. There is nothing in the service manual that I can find about this and I really don't want to take the clutch cover off unless needed.

Thoughts? Or maybe I'll soon be making a good MPEM, Stator, etc available for bid.

Thanks

I find the engine braking on my 2018 650 max xt to be extreme and darn near dangerous. My passenger's helmet will crack into the back of my helmet if I don't holler out a warning prior to releasing the throttle. My 2017 570 max xt was nowhere near this bad. Is it possible for the dealer to adjust this?.
Bob

I’ve got a 2016 Sportsman 570 X2 and I’m looking for good ideas to put a Garmin Montana w/Ram Mount and a side view mirror. I’m looking at the handlebars but seems like some much stuff already there that I couldn’t find room. Not fond of the idea mounting the mirror off the front rack extension due to vibration. What do you all do?

Thing is a gripper for sure, just gonna take some getting used to in the looks department.
Installed it about an hour ago and already growing on me.
When it comes to looks I generally love what I come up with, but on the fence with this one...
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I have a 2010 Sportsman 500 that the Exhaust Release exploded and came out the side cover plate. I heard it go when I started it and did a quick look and drove it a little not much but then I heard the oil leak that goes with that. . I didn't run it out of oil but it was low. I cheaped out and ordered a new cam on Amazon that came with the cam, sproket and release mechanism. Changed the oil and primed it. I set the valve lash to a tight .006 but I have an annoying rattle that reminds me of valve rattle when I give it some RPM it starts about 2500 and gets worse as you go up. I rechecked the valve lash and it is good. I replaced the Starter Bendix gear as with a stethescope it sounds like it is loudest in that area. Any other idea's? Thinking about a timing chain or maybe the cheap chinese cam has an issue with the compression realease an is rattling? I am out of real solid thoughts and grasping now.

I'm replacing the hub coil on my 1999 sportsman 500 and I have read a lot of post about how important it is that there is no damage to the inner pole the part that the coil slides onto. That if there is damage to the inner pole this can greatly affect the clamping strength of the armature plate to the coil. My problem is that the armature plate is not holing good. When I ohm out the coil and turn the the axle it goes from 30 ohms to 15 ohms so I'm sure the coil is no good. When replacing the coil I noticed that the inner hub pole is slightly mushroomed I had to file the outside edge just a little to get the coil to slide on. Also the inside of it has a little sharp edge on it by the outer axle bearing race. Do you guys think this will be ok? also do you think I should knock the edge off of the inside of the hub by the outer axle bearing race or just leave it alone?