Author: Forum News

So - my wife and I are both experienced, avid riders. We received 2 keys with our new 2017 Maverick X3 Turbo - one Learner key and one Performance key. I would like for both of us to always have a key on us, so is there a way to reprogram the Learner key as a Performance key?
TYIA!

The tach on my '12 Sportsman 500 HO is squirrelly. I briefly searched the forums and found only one member with a similar problem (http://www.polarisatvforums.com/foru...44684-rpm.html), but the audience has been left in suspense for a few years now.

Before I get too far into this, keep in mind this is a tach issue, not an actual engine RPM issue. The engine appears to be running perfectly. Unfortunately, I have no idea when this problem began as I usually have the display set to the trip meter.

Anyway, the tach at idle reads 1,000-1,200 RPM. With headlights and brake lights OFF, advancing the throttle causes RPM reading on tach to drop to 500-600. Now, holding the throttle steady, I can turn on the low beams and get the RPM reading to increase drastically. Put on high beams and RPM reading comes up a little more. Squeeze the brake and it comes up still more. And get this... operate the winch (in or out) and the RPM reading increases just a little more. Bear in mind this is all at a constant engine speed.

In addition to the winch, mods on the machine include the three headlight mod and wiring inside the Tamarack lounger to support the third brake light (LED). However, I can replicate the RPM reading problem with the headlight mod disabled (relay removed) and the lounger disconnected.

There's one other issue I do NOT believe is related, but I mention it here JUST IN CASE I'M WRONG. There's an occasional hiccup when starting. Every so often the display will go blank and the starter will disengage as if the whole bike is losing power. This has happened with the original battery and with the new replacement. It doesn't happen often, but it's really obvious when it does. There's never an issue on successive attempts to start. Again, I'm not looking to resolve that issue here. I know it likely requires its own string. I brought it up here in case someone out there is aware of a correlation between the two problems.

I suspect this is a bad ground issue, but I can't find it. I'm hoping someone out there overcame a similar issue. Suggestions I don't need to hear are to ignore the problem, leave the display on something other than RPM, leave the headlights on, etc. I prefer everything to work. Any ideas?

I took my atv in and the dealership replaced the stator and rectifier due to starting problems. they also replaced seal and gasket on oil pressure pump. My digital dash worked fine, when I got it back my gas gauge does not even show up anymore. I wiggled a couple of wires and got it to flicker off and on briefly, now I can't even do that! Took it back and they said they could find no loose wires or connections and it did not get fixed. Can someone tell me what they think may be wrong? Wires and fuses have been checked as well1

Hey everyone! First off, I am really enjoying the new 2018 Polaris Sportsman XP 1000 L.E.. I do have a question. Has anyone seen there engine light flash on the cluster when you have applied gas while holding the HAND brake? I noticed going down a hill twice now mine flashes if I have the brake applied and give it gas. Took it to dealer and they said they saw the code that it kicked. They stated, this is normal and Polaris has designed this so that when you were giving it a lot of gas while holding brake, it would put it into limp mode, keeping you from burning up a belt. Just curious if anyone else has seen this on there 2017 or 2018 XP 1000. Thanks...

any electrical experts in here? So I have a 2001 sportsman 400 that I bought as a fixer upper. Original owner said it wouldn't charge the battery. I found the battery cables loose and 2 broken wires up front. Fixed both wires, 1 was for the high beam and i think the other was the red wire from the regulator. I know power goes from the stator to the voltage regulator, the 3 legs of the regulator i have .2 ohms on each leg, have 15 15 and about 27 V AC coming in on each leg, going out on the red and brown I have about 9.5V at idle and it goes up to about 13.5 revving it up. Originally I thought it was much lower so I bought a new aftermarket regulator and tried it tonight and it was lower output dc voltage than my original. Once I hook up the red and brown to the machines wires it immediately drops to 4.5 V. So I believe something after the regulator is pulling the voltage down but I don't know what is after the regulator. At the battery cables I have the same 4.5 V with the battery removed. I have a brand new battery but haven't put it in yet until I have it fixed. I believe even with the battery out of it, I have 12V out of the regulator alone, when I plug it in I should have 12V at the battery cables but I don't, I have about 4.5V with it plugged in..

any help would be greatly appreciated.

any electrical experts in here? So I have a 2001 sportsman 400 that I bought as a fixer upper. Original owner said it wouldn't charge the battery. I found the battery cables loose and 2 broken wires up front. Fixed both wires, 1 was for the high beam and i think the other was the red wire from the regulator. I know power goes from the stator to the voltage regulator, the 3 legs of the regulator i have .2 ohms on each leg, have 15 15 and about 27 V AC coming in on each leg, going out on the red and brown I have about 9.5V at idle and it goes up to about 13.5 revving it up. Originally I thought it was much lower so I bought a new aftermarket regulator and tried it tonight and it was lower output dc voltage than my original. Once I hook up the red and brown to the machines wires it immediately drops to 4.5 V. So I believe something after the regulator is pulling the voltage down but I don't know what is after the regulator. At the battery cables I have the same 4.5 V with the battery removed. I have a brand new battery but haven't put it in yet until I have it fixed. I believe even with the battery out of it, I have 12V out of the regulator alone, when I plug it in I should have 12V at the battery cables but I don't, I have about 4.5V with it plugged in..

any help would be greatly appreciated.

hello everyone. I bought a 2001 sportsman 400 as a fixer upper. I have made a few repairs, gotten it running, all around seems pretty solid, just trying to work out a kink or two..

First for some information, I replaced all the fluids, greased everything, new belt and clutch spring, new spark plug, fixed a few broken wires, etc. So the machine started right up and runs good on flat ground, once n awhile it has a small hesitation but comes out of it pretty quickly. I was doing some testing and I was climbing a steep hill slowly, from idle to about half throttle everything seems fine, over half throttle it falls flat on its face/has no power and almost sounds like hitting the rev limiter but its not, almost like its not getting fuel or getting too much, can't really tell. It only does it when the front end of the machine is raised up. I took the carb apart and it was very clean, I was thinking maybe the main jet was dirty but it wasn't. Just for testing I went from a 167.5 to a 175 jet to see if that would change anything, it hasn't made any difference except maybe gotten worse. I had the dealership look at the float height and they said it looked perfect. The spark plug was white originally with the 167.5 and still the same after switching to the 175. While it is stumbling I have tried putting in on reserve, opening the fuel cap, pulling the choke, none of it makes a difference. I know fuel delivery to the carb is very good. I can go up the same hill in reverse and it works perfectly fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? attached is a picture of the spark plug.

thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Attached Thumbnails

 

hello everyone. I bought a 2001 sportsman 400 as a fixer upper. I have made a few repairs, gotten it running, all around seems pretty solid, just trying to work out a kink or two..

First for some information, I replaced all the fluids, greased everything, new belt and clutch spring, new spark plug, fixed a few broken wires, etc. So the machine started right up and runs good on flat ground, once n awhile it has a small hesitation but comes out of it pretty quickly. I was doing some testing and I was climbing a steep hill slowly, from idle to about half throttle everything seems fine, over half throttle it falls flat on its face/has no power and almost sounds like hitting the rev limiter but its not, almost like its not getting fuel or getting too much, can't really tell. It only does it when the front end of the machine is raised up. I took the carb apart and it was very clean, I was thinking maybe the main jet was dirty but it wasn't. Just for testing I went from a 167.5 to a 175 jet to see if that would change anything, it hasn't made any difference except maybe gotten worse. I had the dealership look at the float height and they said it looked perfect. The spark plug was white originally with the 167.5 and still the same after switching to the 175. While it is stumbling I have tried putting in on reserve, opening the fuel cap, pulling the choke, none of it makes a difference. I know fuel delivery to the carb is very good. I can go up the same hill in reverse and it works perfectly fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? attached is a picture of the spark plug.

thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Attached Thumbnails