Author: Forum News

Hey guys,
Don't laugh...I bought another set of skid plates. Iron Baltic this time. Why? Because I stripped out the SPOP bracket on the rear skids while greasing my new Cecco knuckles. In addition, because of the SPOP's lack of hardware, I had to jerry rig hardware on the body skid.

Here's my thoughts: the Iron Baltic is essentially better in every way EXCEPT the front skids. IMO, the SPOP front is just neater and cleaner instead of having the split on the Iron Baltic. I also ended up using one bracket from the SPOP kit on the body skid. I'm very pleased now and believe I have the best of both worlds. If I had to choose one, I'd definitely go Iron Baltic.

Thanks,
Tom

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I was out on my first ride after fixing my last problem of my starter being stuck. Any ways. I was about 5 minutes into riding when the atv started spuddering like it was going to die when I hit the gas. It did this for maybe 30 seconds then it completely died. I though it was a dead battery but my battery is fully charged and I had the 25 amp fuze blow. Does any one know what this could be. No lights come on with the key on. But I do get power at my fuze post when the key is off just not when it's on. Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys new member here my name's Cole! I recently got a good deal on what I believe is a 2000 sportsman 500 4x4..

Vin is 4XACH33A4YD21035

From Google I understand the 10th digit is the year why is mine Y?? So I guess I just need to know what I have to order parts thanks in advanced!!

Cole

Hey everyone, I have a 2014 Sportsman 570.
Last night I brought the bike to a buddies house to fix my snorkel risers. We rode it around so he could see how the bike feels. I rode it around aswell, no issue. Pulled it up to the shop and started redoing the snorkels. I went to crank it to test if they are sealed and the bike would turn over but wouldnt fire up and run.
I have so far done the following.
Changed spark plug (I have spark when i pull the plug out and ground it)
I have confirmed fuel through rail and injector.
I sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and still not even a studder to try to start.

Cluster went out a while ago but has never had problem running with it on or even unplugged and have tried both.
Ive checked fuses and relays, cant find one problem.
Do these bikes have like a tilt sensor i couldve tripped or something? Maybe timing? Just wouldnt seem likely, turns over normal and ran until i cut it off and now wont run, not like it could jump time not running lol. any help would be awesome.

I recently bought this 98 Xplorer that had been sitting for over a year. After going thru everything and getting it running, the throttle cable broke. I replaced it today and now it doesn't run like it did before. I have no idea what the key positions are on this atv but it runs better on one of them than the other. The lights, fan and awd will only work with the key in the "UP" position, it will run but nothing works with the key all the way to the right. Now, after replacing the throttle cable, everything still works in the "UP" position but the atv will not take gas or ride like it did before. Any ideas what I may have done to cause this? I have a video of it but not sure how to let you all see it, lol.

Throwing this out there as the dealer is 700km round trip for warranty. Sorry for the long explanation. I tend to drone on.


I bought my 850 with 360 apache xl tracks for high mountain access for my trade. (Has about 1200km or so to date) Yesterday about 3 km from the truck I couldnt turn on a switchback in about 8" of snow. Looking at the front tracks they were not getting power although the 4x4 engage light was on. I put into neutral, into 2 wheel, through the gears then back into neutral and into 4 again. Then continued up the trail. After that although in 4 wheel, it would to kick out intermittently with a slight clunk ( feels like you hit a small rock on the road with the tracks....?) just on the front end and my front would dive and then climb up again when it would re-engage or 'connect'. I thought it could be while under load but seemed to be whenever, in 4H or 4L up or down hill. ...and when I say kick out it was quick and then back in and wasn't able to verify if the green engage light would go off then back on. Like a lock pin is just coming out and then back in on the next revolution. So Im thinking the actuator and electrical. I shed some gear on the trail and call up one dealer mechanic and he said it could be the splines stripping on the front shaft however i'm skeptical because when it was locked in, it was solid and not coming out and grinding. I was able to continue on in 4L with the front diff stuttering (maybe jerk 5-6 times per km). I tried to take it as easy as possible. I shed the rest of the load at 8 km to stay on plane and got to the 11km mark at our destination. i was even able to ram plow a path for a couple hundred feet (36" of fresh) for the other guy's tracked 700 griz to get in before it got too deep at the summit. For the return trip down i was not able to use 2 wd as I thought ( too soft) and used 4H and had hardly any issue down to the truck.
So..
I thought the load could be the issue but within spec for this unit. Rider and gear total about 450# plus ATV fuel. I thought it could be that with the track drag in the snow but it started to flake out before the snow got deep. I was plowing my driveway with it the day before and had no noticable issue. (New flex plow is good design with a significant fault as my winch cable wore and snapped on the frame..another topic another day.)

So....to make a long story longer...
-Actuator and/or wet switch contacts?
-Is the rubber drive shaft boots giving too much play and allowing the front shaft to slip a tooth when torqued?
-Just a bunch of chinese made stuff with a canadian label?
Im not really into wrenching anymore thats why I bought new unless this could be something simple.
Thanks for reading

Hello all. I purchased a new Outlander max xt 850 (back in February) and use it mainly for work and a bit of play. I just joined the forum today for info and input. Thanks

Brand new in bag, drain plug for front diff with the magnet. Was for my 2011 Sportsman 500 HO, no longer own it. Paid over $40 with tax at the dealer, $20 will get it shipped to you. Thanks

New to ATV's, new to Can Am, new to this forum site. I just bought a new 2017 Outlander 570 base model
I have a question regarding the Can Am grip warmer and throttle warmer. Is this accessory easy or difficult to install yourself? I have mechanical skills and tools. I've looked at the install instructions on the official CanAM website.
Anyone on here installed the heaters on their own? Is it straight forward if you follow the Can AM instruction?
The kit is all inclusive except for a electric cable pn: (710004567) that is a separate part that needs to be bought extra.

Your feedback is appreciated

I recently took in a 16 Polaris sportsman 450ho efi 4x4 as a trade. Has 231 miles on it. Original owner purchased a factory extended warranty wich had over a year and a half left. I have all the original factory paperwork including certificate of origin. Traded for it thinking it will be a great machine for my wife or as a second for friends to go riding, we just literally don?t have the time, and will sit 95% of the year. Let me know if any interests. Looking for $5300 cash only on pickup. I don?t need to sell it and it?s not in my way. Pm me with any questions. Located in Southwick, ma
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