Author: Forum News

Happy Friday everyone! As promised, here is a short review with some pictures of Swedish Performance Offroad Parts (SPOP) skid plate off of Amazon for our quads with curved A-Arms.

Install difficulty - Low to Moderate

Pain in the ass factor - Extremely high

The Pros: Good finished product. Strong Plastic and very thick. I guess that's all you could ask for, yea? Delivery time was very short for a foreign delivery.

The Cons: Weak install instructions. There are only 5 pages total and 3 of those 5 are CAD drawings. Given the black and white instructions, it's hard to make out where some parts go. Missing hardware (had to go to hardware store twice for nuts and bolts). Some bolts, especially for the lower skid plate that attaches in factor holes, were way too short. Not very precise bends in some areas. I did not install the front skid plate because the snow plow doesn't fit with this on (doesn't fit with Iron Baltic either).

This project took 2 long evenings after work. I don't know how they think it'll install in 1-2 hours given how much you have to fight the enclosed hardware. And, I sure as hell wouldn't try to install this without having a second person.

Once done, I think it'll add substantial protection and be very worthwhile.

Thanks,
Tom

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I've sleeved the tie rods so they are pretty much unbreakable. We just broke an end. Who makes the toughest replacement that will thread onto the oem tie rod? Are the tie rods different side to side?

Hey everyone, I got a 2015 sportsman 570 efi. Has about 2200 miles/600 hours. I use it everyday for soil testing. Been having a lot of issues with it lately. A few weeks ago it wouldn't run after a few hours when it got hot. Dealer replaced the fuel pump and wrapped the tank with heat shield. Last week I broke the throttle lever. Replaced it with an aluminum one and it ran fine. Today it was about 80 degrees. After a few hours of running. It died. Check engine light came on. Took gas cap off and there seemed to be some pressure. Added more gas thinking it might cool the gas down in tank. Seemed to work when fuel pump started to fail. Didn't help. I didn't know how to get the code. I had to start it multiple times to get back to the truck. When I gave it gas it would hardly move. Tried backing up on a hill and it wouldn't move. Acted like it didn't have any power to wheels. Back fired a little bit. It kept dying even at idle. After I got home I started it. The check engine light is no longer on but it only runs for about 30 seconds before it dies again. It starts up right away again though. It will rev up but it still dies weather at idle or giving it gas. Tried searching the forms and I can't seem to find anyone that had this issue. I checked to make sure the throttle cable was tight. Thought maybe it had to do with me messing with throttle lever. When I let off the throttle quickly the two metal contacts touch in the throttle assembly(is that what it's called?). Doesn't seem to affect weather it dies or not. Anyone got any ideas? Thank you

So i took my 1000 to get a ceramic coated clear coat on it, to see if it helps with the cleaning after each ride. So looking at the top of the head light i see the separation of plastics. Is this normal ? Nothing crazy for me , just wanted to ask...

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I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.

It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.

It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a good CVT belt, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.

I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:

• The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It is fully off.
• There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side (Top image) is the Oil pressure switch. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not???
• The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare.
• I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help.

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File Type: jpg	IMG_2037.JPG (1.01 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_2036.JPG (973.4 KB)

I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.

It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.

It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a good CVT belt, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.

I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:

• The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It is fully off.
• There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side (Top image) is the Oil pressure switch. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not???
• The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare.
• I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help.

Attached Images

File Type: jpg	IMG_2037.JPG (1.01 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_2036.JPG (973.4 KB)

So some dbag stole my motor on my 8’ fiberglass boat. I need another one. Transom mount. 45-55# thrust. I’m looking at the minnkota endura c2 and the motorguide r3. I found a really good deal on the r3 but I’m torn between the two. Any recommendations?

Hey guys I wanted to ask some suggestions on where to go from here. 07 outlander 800 XT. I have full muzzy exhaust, digituner, 09 intake mod, snorkel kit, and I currently going to be stepping up from a dalton clutch kit (27” 589’s) to a CVTECH Primary. As part of normal maintenance I’ll need to get the valves adjusted (Not noisy but I’m just anal about keeping up with everything) . I wasn’t sure if it was much more work to do a cam if you’re already in there adjusting valves. What kind of gains are there with a drop in trail cam? Most of my riding is technical rocks, mountain, etc. I am much more into useable power instead of ppl that just want top end for drag racing. I don’t want to go with another Primary so the CVTECH needs to be able to handle it. What do you guys think? From research that was a couple years old it looks like the most useable power came from BOM mags and super mags...