Author: Forum News

Hey everyone, thanks for viewing my post. I'm new to the forum and I have a few questions about my 2004 ATP, specifically why my rear end failed. I received this bike from my father in law, and prior to him it had only had one owner. Both previous owners only used the bike for hauling wood and moose, not much else. Upon receiving my quad, I took it upon myself to service it front to back, changing all fluids, greasing all bearings and all that good stuff. When I was out on my second ride on the bike, I was going up a small hill on a fairly steep incline (30-40 degree) and the rear end totally failed. At the time I was not sure what happened but I heard a loud pop and started rolling backwards. I soon found that I only had front wheel drive and managed to limp it back home. On closer inspection I found that the rear driveshaft was jumping over the spines on the rear end and was not capable of any power output whatsoever. The input splines for the rear differential are totally bald but the driveshaft splines seem fine. Did Polaris really make the driveshaft splines with a harder metal than the rear end? Is this a common occurrence with Polaris ATV's? Or ATP's? And does anyone have any insight as to why this may have happened in the first place? As I said, the bike was used very minimally prior to myself owning it, but the use it received from previous owners was definitely more rigorous than what I am intending. This repair will cost me around $1000 (new input gears, driveshaft, seal kit, mounting bolts, oils, etc.) and I just want to make sure it wont happen again. Thank you in advance for any insight into this problem, anything and everything is appreciated! I will attach pictures of the splines as soon as I transfer them to my computer.

New to the forum. Got a 2011 Sportsman 500 HO. I wanted to introduce myself to the group.

I purchased my full set of JCCapri bushings in August of 2014 and have put a little over 2300 miles on them since. I'm pretty hard on my quad and tend to ride on some rough trails so I'm not complaining by any means.

The bolts are all torqued to spec and I've checked to make sure it's not the mounting holes. I do have one hole that is worn out on the upper right rear a arm but the ones I'm seeing the most movement out of are the lower front a arms.

I'm not sure if I'm going to go back with JCCapri or go with Garage Products. I'll probably end up going with GP just because they come with new sleeves and carry a lifetime warranty. They are a little more expensive but they'll make installing the SLC rear HD arched arms easier.

Next time I'm in the garage I'll try to get some video of the movement.

First Time to Post

Hello everyone, I have a Can Am Commander 1000 2012 limited. I had a problem with the motor knocking and it died and would not start. After investigating, primary clutch was rattling with peices inside, secondary clutch gears were broken, intake and exhaust side of clutch case piping was plugged with old destroyed belt debris. I pulled the motor to investigate inside the motor.

I found that the bearings between the journal and rod was destroyed, it also scarred the journal. I invested in a new crankshaft, bearings, and rods.

I replaced the timing chains because the bike is 5 years old and they was stretched. I kept all the original piston, rings, jugs, and I didn't fool with the valve train assembly.

Reassembled the motor to spec all except the timing on the camshaft. Let me be clear that the cam gear on this machine has no slotted peace on the back to line up with the cam shaft. The gear has 3 holes for bolting on to the camshaft and it is slick on front and back. It is a stock cam gear with the horizontal marks you are suppose to line up horizontally once you get the camshaft TDC.

So, I put piston 1 TDC, I do not have a camshaft timing tool that is recommended, so I got the cam close as I could with my good eye. Then continued by installing the cam gear and chain and so on. Rotated crankshaft for TDC for #2, repeated the same process for the camshaft, gear, and chain Now, after installing the engine, it will not crank. It acts like it wants to sometimes but doesn't.

Question #1 is there a trick to timing the camshaft with out the timing tool that is in the manual.
Question #2 Do you need to lock the Crankshaft in TDC?

looking for a little advice. new to 4wheelers. I have a 2008? Polaris 800 Touring. it has a Polaris 3500 winch. I am looking to put a plow on it. I think it has a plow mount already on it (in Picture). if this isnt a plow mount then I am not sure what it is. I am looking for suggestions on what plow to get for this mount, or if i need a mount what you guys suggest for a inexpensive plow and mount for it. driveway is about 125ft long on a hill and is crushed stone. In VT we tend to get a little snow now and then...

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I am going to be adding a plow to my 17 Sportsman 850 Sp. my father has a Polaris plow that was on his 09 rzr that he kept when he sold the rzr. My question is how much work is it to make this plow work on the 850, does Polaris have a plow mount that will work with older versions of their plows? Also underneath the winch is what looks like a plow mount attached to the frame already, running side to side with 2 round stock piece sticking out. What is that for? Any help is great. Thanks

Hello. I have a polaris sportsman 500 EFI 2007. The Atv dies when Idle, the machine is working at 1120-1180 and suddenly dies and backfire. the rpm are not stable. when the rpms are at 3000 rps suddenly goes to 2000 and then die. while driving is not smooth. at the begining i had this problem only when the machine was warm. approx after 30 minutes of use. now i have the problem all the time.
the check engine flashes and disappears.

any idea what is going wrong?

Thanks in advance

Hello. I have a polaris sportsman 500 EFI x2 2007. The Atv dies when Idle, the machine is working at 1120-1180 and suddenly dies and backfire. the rpm are not stable. when the rpms are at 3000 rps suddenly goes to 2000 and then die. while driving is not smooth. at the begining i had this problem only when the machine was warm. approx after 30 minutes of use. now i have the problem all the time.
the check engine flashes and disappears.

i already visited a garage and they havent found something. they have cleaned the EFI system but again i have the same problem.

Just took the above mentioned bike for the first ride today and this machine still has IMO scary (bad) shocks. I had an 07 800 outty and replaced the stock shocks with HPG I believe they were Bilitens and made a big improvement in the ride.


My question is will those HPG fit the 2017 outty? If not what are my options? I think I paid $250 for all 4 shocks and reused the stock springs and was quite happy. From what I am seeing for options are $1200 Elka or $600 Fox from the renee shocks.
I

I have a 2012 Sportsman 550 X2. It hasn't been starting so I jumped the connectors on the solenoid, which started it. I went to the local dealer and they would have to order it....2 weeks! I ordered one from DB Electric and had it here in four days. Problem Is It Doesn't Fit! The bracket on the replacement one has dog legged mounting holes instead of the bracket running straight. It's Sunday and I'm left a week behind now. Sent a reply and phone call to DB to see what my options are. At this point the $10 savings and speedy delivery aren't adding up. Yes, I did follow there cross reference guide when ordering.