Author: Forum News

I have been working on a new to me 2002 Sportsman 400. It was given to me partially disassembled, so I don't know how it was working before. The primary clutch was shot with cracks in the sheave, so I bought a brand new Polaris OEM belt and an aftermarket Niche clutch. The secondary clutch was used as-is. Put everything together tonight and have the idle adjusted low enough so it almost stalls in gear - don't have a tach to check exact rpm.

The problem I have is that it wants to immediately start moving forward or reverse when you put it in gear. It's inside my shop, so I can only move about 4 ft forward and back at idle. It was raining so I didn't have a chance to take it outside and try it. Just wondering if this was "normal" for a brand new belt and if it would loosen up a little by riding it or if there's something else I should be checking? Thanks in advance for any advice, this is my first belt driven automatic quad, my other two are chain drive (Warriors).

Ive been riding 4x4s my whole life but sport quads are new to me. A couple days ago I picked up a 2011 DS 90 for my son. It looks like a really nice a clean machine. He was very excited so I let him rip around a little bit the last few days without really going over the quad. Today just as he was finishing up I noticed a grinding / rubbing noise from the rear. I noticed the chain was really loose and tightened it up. Ultimately I found that two of the rear sprocket bolt had come loose and rubbed against the axle bearing. As you can see the bearing looks shot. How do you go about replacing that bearing? Also I don?t see the bolts for the sprocket on the parts list it looks like you need a whole sprocket. Lastly would there be damage to anything else that I?m misssing by letting the chain go too loose? I did notice the front sprocket had a very little movement in it but that went away after I tightened up the chain. Thanks for any help.

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2017 1000 200 miles.

Pulled my spark arrestor out of the exhaust tonight curiosity more then anything.

Looking for clearification? The fiberglass packing? Is there debris blowing out of the muffler or is it a fiber glass packing around the spark arestor? There was a small ring around the tip wondering if it's all burnt off or muffler packing collecting around the mesh. The tip showed a lot of rainbow colored heat but it also had a very hard break in lol.

I left it out for now. Is there any reason why I should put it back in besides noise an sparks? It Sounds pretty good.

Well I'm redoing my risers on my 1000 want a little more height and wanted to get em more centered so I can roll the bike more without dipping them. Came up with this just want to hear what some opinions little busy but kinda cool and as centered as I can get em. First two pics are before rest are after

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Traxter 500 slips out of high range while driving. I watched the shift shaft (high,low,reverse,park) while driving in high range and with no movement of the shaft the trans. will slip out of gear as if not well engaged. I am able to reengage into high by playing with the shift lever, but with some grinding. I thought maybe the tierod of the shift linkage might need adjust but while driving in high range with very minimal movement in either direction it will slip out of gear. This leads me to believe that there is some kind of internal problem?
Has any one experienced this or have any suggestions?

Hi all so I finally found a good reason to purchase my first quad bike. Picked up a 2006 Polaris hawkeye 300 and must say I'm impressed with my quad.
I'm an ex car mechanic so will tackle most jobs on the machine, and have already replaced a wheel bearing, front cv boot, front brake pads and all those worn track rod ends on the steering arms.
Next job is find out why my front on demand drive has stopped working.
I'll be asking a few questions no doubt.
Btw settled in Ireland last 15 years but I'm from Wales originally.
Currently have the following mouths to feed:
3 kids, 2 dogs, 4 cats, 2 horses and of course the good lady herself!

I know this has been covered to death, but for about a year now, I have been chasing this engine miss. Installed new plugs gapped to .024. Verified fuel tank not under vacumn lock, dielectric grease on ceramic and plug boot. Cleaned MAP, speed, crank and cam sensors. New air filter. Here is what happen a week ago. I was having the highly occasional turn ignition on with the key and nothing from start button. Cycled it a couple of times and it would start. No biggy. Finally, it got to a point where nothing...nada. Turned kill switch off and on. Sprayed wd40 down ignition switch. No cigar. Took the switch apart and looked like a pigeon crapped about a tablespoon of junk down there. I cleaned it out. The little springs on the contacts were corroded and stuck not making contact. I got them functional. Put it all back together and it fired right up. I have a new switch coming from the bay. My question is, could this corroded up barely functional ignition switch be causing intermittant current to the coil and ecm? I mean a few days ago it wasn't letting any current through. I have a 2012 800Max with 4000 miles on it.

Heading up Bountiful Canyon with my Polaris Sporstman 850 touring. This is a fun ride but it's a little cold this time of year. There is a lot more trails up there this was just a simple ride from the bottom to the top. The battery died on the gopro6 those things do not last long. Check out the video.

I am looking to buy new shocks and was wondering what would be a good shock for fast riding over rocky trails. The guys I ride with have 900 and 1000 rzr's and fly over all the bumps and rocks and it beats the crap out of me trying to keep up. Any suggestions would be appreciated but I also don't want to break the bank thx in advance.

Here's the second video of three I'll be posting from a three ATV Trip I did in the San Rafael Swell area in Utah. Hope you enjoy the video !!





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