Author: Forum News

Hey guys I've seen many people like to use the schaeffers moly treatment as an additive to their transmission. Is this an engine oil additive you're mixing with the gear oil? I came from a couple german cars and I'm a firm believer in the lubro moly. I put their additives in everything. My question is, lubro moly has a mos2 additive made for engines and engine oil as well as a moly additive made for gears and gear oil. Since the transmission uses gear oil, it should take the gear additive correct? Thanks in advance.


http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...BoCInIQAvD_BwE

My 2016 1000 XMR has a bit of hesitation when it is cold regardless of air temperature. Also, when I hold it at a certain rpm it will rev up and down at will. This goes a way after it starts to warm up so wondering if I'm just too impatient and this machine runs this way and i must let it warm up more or other issues.
Doesn't do this all the time but more frequent after lots of washing and/or deeper water riding; thinking water getting into something maybe in gas. TPS was reset and throttle body cleaned since it was dirty. Dealer said air filter suppose to be oiled at set up and not oiled at factory so caused dirty TB; dealer oiled filter.
Tough to siphon gas tank completely and seen vids that isopropal alcohol or a product called HEET emulsify the gas/water much better than Seaform .
bought the 2016 new this spring so it was sitting at the dealer for a long time so could have developed lots of condensation over that time IMO.
Any advice would be appreciated

About my new to me Can-Am.

Hey Y'all, I'm new to the Polaris ATV Forums. I've got a 2010 Sportsman 500 HO that is sputtering, spitting, and cutting out on hills. Any suggestions for fixes? I've crated this machine and sent it overseas to where I work/live. It ran beautifully before I had to drain and crate it. When I got it over here a year later the needle seat had dried out and allowed fuel to back up into the air box and then get sucked into the crank case. I've put a carb kit in it and that problem is fixed, along with an oil change and new filter. After that it got to where it'd only run for about 5 min or so before dying. Then I'd have to choke it and crank hard on the starter to get it to fire up again. I've replaced the fuel pump (as it was full of junk inside). Now it starts, idles, and runs great until I open up the throttle to get up some hills, then it sputters and cuts out. It is like it's starving for fuel. I can re-start it right away. I've removed the in-line fuel filter between the tank and carb and this helps, but it is a new filter so I know it isn't full of trash. Is there a filter in the tank itself? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Hey guys I got a 2007 outlander 800 thats giving me some issues. It won't start it just does a click and you can hear the fuel pump. If you jump the starter solenoid it turns the starter over. Well I figured ok solenoid is probably bad. My buddies wheeler is literally having the same exact issue he did everything I did jumped his solenoid and it would turn over. Bought a new solenoid and it still does the same way thing. So now I'm pondering if I should try the solenoid or not. Someone must have had this issue before. :th_smiliefrustrated

I have a 2013 Outlander 650 Max XT that has about 500 miles on it now. While going through some routine maintenance I wanted to ask whether there is anything else I should do while I am at it.

So far I have done the following:

- changed out the engine & transmission oil
- replaced CVT belt
- Inspected and cleaned engine air filter and foam filter.
- Greased all the zirk fittings
- replaced tie rod ends
- checked brake fluid level

In addition I am considering valve adjustment. Is there anything else I should take care of while doing my routine maintenance?

Also now I am getting "Maintenance Required" message during start up. Is there a way to get rid of the message other than a trip to the dealer?

Regards,