Looking for a used speedo to fit a 2010 850xp, the display on my current speedo has got moisture in it some how and causing intermittent issues. The quad has 538 miles 119hrs, so anything around that would be useable, feel free to pm me, thanks! I believe the 550xp and certainother models are the same
Hatfield vs South Dakota black hills
Anybody rode both. We did Hatfield last year and it was awesome. We do our trip in beginning to middle of March so weather is a issue. This year we are going to go to wherever the weather looks better. So anyone who has done both or just South Dakota let me know what you think. Thanks
Hatfield vs South Dakota black hills
Anybody rode both. We did Hatfield last year and it was awesome. We do our trip in beginning to middle of March so weather is a issue. This year we are going to go to wherever the weather looks better. So anyone who has done both or just South Dakota let me know what you think. Thanks
Polaris 6×6 brake problem
Hello.
I cant get pressure on the calipers on mid axle.
I have replaced master cylinder and bleeded so have good brake fluid and no air
Have blocked off the brake hoses with pliers and gets pressure, and no pressure releasing the pliers.
No leaks.
Ideas?
I cant get pressure on the calipers on mid axle.
I have replaced master cylinder and bleeded so have good brake fluid and no air
Have blocked off the brake hoses with pliers and gets pressure, and no pressure releasing the pliers.
No leaks.
Ideas?
2010 850xp eps front diff issues
Hey all, off to a New Year! im lost for ideas here as to what is causing my front diff not to activate in 4x4. The 4x4 icon shows up on the dash, but front wheels don't engage. I checked voltage and ohms at the coil and all are in spec. If I have all 4 wheels off the ground, in 4x4 mode, the front wheels turn but I can grab the wheels and keep them from turning in 4x4 mode. Changed fluid, no issues there. Took front diff apart, everything seems intact, the only potential issue I saw was the top ring portion of the roller cage has separated from the cage itself, but it still seats into the notches on the cage, and armature tabs in the notches. Even though the cage should be all one piece, can this cause my issue? I also did notice that the armature plate tabs were facing up, and my service manual shows the tabs facing down inserted into the cage notches. I don't know if the previous owner had it apart at one time or not. I have a new cage coming to start with and a new thrust pad as it seemed a little warn out. Any other ideas what you guys might think it could be would be appreciated. When I have the coil cover off, I plugged it into the chassis harness and checked to see if the magnetization had resistance against the armature plate with 4x4 switch on, and it was a firm magnetization, so no issues with the coil.
Carb rebuilding lessons learned
I wrote this in response to a post, but thought it might be worthy of its own post. These are a few things I’ve learned in the past few months dealing with carb issues on 3 ATVs of mine, and 1 of my neighbors. I welcome debate from the guys on here that actually know what they’re doing....
1) The original carb is better than the cheap aftermarket carbs... Since they’re so cheap, I tried replacing the carb to save me the work of a thorough clean and rebuild on one of mine, and my neighbor’s ATV. Worked perfectly on his, worked “OK” on mine. Ran, but not smoothly. Not happy with “OK”, I took my original apart, used some parts from the aftermarket carb that it needed, cleaned it extremely thoroughly (more on this later), and put it back together. Now runs perfectly.
2) Be meticulous (REALLY meticulous) during the cleaning/rebuild process... On the first one I did, I cleaned it with carb cleaner and blew out the passages with air, but didn’t really make sure ALL of the passages and tiny holes were obstruction free. That one ran (again) “OK”, but didn’t have a nice fast idle on full choke, and was a little sluggish. I took it off again, disassembled and did a carb dip, bought a cheap set of progressively smaller sewing needles from Walmart, and made sure ALL of the little holes were obstruction free (some were still clogged even after the dip). Blew everything out, and now that one runs like brand new.
3) Choke (enrichener) adjustment is difficult, but I found the solution.... This may be causing your problem... Getting that 1/8 inch of play in the choke/enrichener circuit is difficult to judge through an old cable, even after it’s oiled. Figured out that one of mine was way off even though it felt right... by measuring. When you have the choke cable out of the carb, use a micrometer to measure from the surface of the choke hole to the surface inside the hole where the plunger bottoms out (most micrometers have a protrusion on the end that will allow you to do this). Transfer that measurement (plus 1/8 of an inch) to the choke cable, measured from surface of the choke nut that contacts the carb to the end of the plunger (not including the nub at the end). If you look at the components involved, my description should make sense. This sets it up perfectly. Then just screw the choke plunger back into the carb, already adjusted. Once it’s set up this way, you can make fine adjustments once it’s in, but you won’t need to.
1) The original carb is better than the cheap aftermarket carbs... Since they’re so cheap, I tried replacing the carb to save me the work of a thorough clean and rebuild on one of mine, and my neighbor’s ATV. Worked perfectly on his, worked “OK” on mine. Ran, but not smoothly. Not happy with “OK”, I took my original apart, used some parts from the aftermarket carb that it needed, cleaned it extremely thoroughly (more on this later), and put it back together. Now runs perfectly.
2) Be meticulous (REALLY meticulous) during the cleaning/rebuild process... On the first one I did, I cleaned it with carb cleaner and blew out the passages with air, but didn’t really make sure ALL of the passages and tiny holes were obstruction free. That one ran (again) “OK”, but didn’t have a nice fast idle on full choke, and was a little sluggish. I took it off again, disassembled and did a carb dip, bought a cheap set of progressively smaller sewing needles from Walmart, and made sure ALL of the little holes were obstruction free (some were still clogged even after the dip). Blew everything out, and now that one runs like brand new.
3) Choke (enrichener) adjustment is difficult, but I found the solution.... This may be causing your problem... Getting that 1/8 inch of play in the choke/enrichener circuit is difficult to judge through an old cable, even after it’s oiled. Figured out that one of mine was way off even though it felt right... by measuring. When you have the choke cable out of the carb, use a micrometer to measure from the surface of the choke hole to the surface inside the hole where the plunger bottoms out (most micrometers have a protrusion on the end that will allow you to do this). Transfer that measurement (plus 1/8 of an inch) to the choke cable, measured from surface of the choke nut that contacts the carb to the end of the plunger (not including the nub at the end). If you look at the components involved, my description should make sense. This sets it up perfectly. Then just screw the choke plunger back into the carb, already adjusted. Once it’s set up this way, you can make fine adjustments once it’s in, but you won’t need to.
2016 Outlander XMR 1000R Reflash
Okay guys I have a good question. I have a 2016 XMR 1000r that I have a QSC/STM setup ordered for, as well as a RJWC split duel exhaust and other great goodies on the way. Has anyone used a reflash to add fuel as well as remove speed limiter, bump up rpm limiter, lower coolant temp to engage fan, etc? I have everything on order through Carolina custom Atv (Bruce Cline) and I’m curious if the fuel tuning etc through the reflash is really worth it?
27” or 28”
I have a outlander 450 if I Decide to get the Mudzilla or Mega Mayham should I go with 27” or 28”
Happy New Year
Hi, everyone. Just bought my first quad. A 2015 sportsman 570.
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Need original ielts, Toefl gre certificate without taking the test
Need Band 7, 8, 8.5 or 9 in Ielts, Or over 60 at the toefl exams? here +1 (505) 309_0230 is Where you can Get/Gain/Buy/Obtain Registered Ielts, Toefl, Gre, nebosh,esol, celta/delta,pte, gmat Certificate Without Attending Exam with Online verification possible.
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