Author: Forum News

I disassembles the lower one to clean and lube because it's a reasonable job.

The upper one requires too much disassembly to be reasonable, plus it's not really exposed to much water anyway.

I was planning to just get a grease needle and insert it through the top oring to grease the bushing without disassembly. Possibly required every few years only anyway for the top one.

Some people just let gear oil or penetrating oil "run down" the shaft, but that looks like a messy and less efficient solution.

Because the top bush is before the P/S, greasing it will definitely make a difference compared to the lower bush.

Anyone tried the grease needle? Will test and report.
My bushing is stuck on the shaft, it's actually the plastic insert that rotates into the metal clamp instead of the shaft rotating inside the bush...

I have a 96 Sportsman 400. the compression after warm up is 100 psi. I have looked at cylinders with a bore scope and cylinder walls look good. Would I be able to pull head and hone the cylinder and replace with standard ring ? If so would this make a big difference in compression ?. I read in service manual that 115 psi is minimum service point. What would be psi on on a fresh motor ? It was given to me by my neighbor. It belonged to his mother LOL. She passed away. It was not running and set for several years. After a few days of tinkering I got it running.It had some electrical problems I believe with the rev limiter and corrosion on various switches. Rebuilt carb and waiting on new tank valve. Over all it is in good condition. Thanks for any advise.

How are you liking the pitbulls?

Im curious if anyone has ever tape measured them when mounted on rim but wheel not on atv.

I had the older 25.5s and loved them.
Got the 26.5s and they weigh alot more plus lost torque and turning.

Now im deciding between the 25 and 26 bg 2.5s.

Curious if the new ones are exactly true to size.

Also the bg 2.5s are rounded now instead of flat. I really liked the flat wheels. Seems to me like you would get less traction with a rounded tire due to the contact area



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The high powered bulbs in the link below were mentioned in another thread and got my interest. These are listed as 90w and the OP in that thread says they are really bright as compared to OEM. The same seller also advertises 100w, 150w and higher output bulbs.
My questions for you electrical guys and those actually running them are:

How hot will they run?
What kind of load will they put on the wiring, switches and charging system during extended operation?
Is there any danger of excess heat and amp load doing damage or causing other electrical problems and/or deforming the housings and lenses?

The OEM lights on my new 1k are just fine but if these bulbs at this price are significantly brighter without any foreseeable downside I may give them a try.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPO...K/202174180823

I overheated an fried my relay controller. I have not been able to find the part. It is part # 4010164. Polaris has discontinued the part. Any ideas? Can you jump the relay and put a fan switch on? Any ideas on finding the relay?

Constant wheel hop

Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.

The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.

The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.

After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.

I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.


Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction? Posted this under 2ritelobe2 but didn't think there would be any interest if the problem wasn't listed


RitelobeConstant wheel hop

Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.

The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.

The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.

After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.

I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.


Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction?


Ritelobe