Author: Forum News

I'm planning on doing the fan mod where I add a switch to control when the fan turns on, but I'd also like the fan to turn itself on when it has to if I have the switch off. I have a few questions:
How many amps does my marine grade switch have to be? (currently 2 hours away from my quad and I'd like to order a switch off amazon to do this weekend)
What wire do I tap into in order to be able to control the fan and still have it work on it's own with the switch off?

It's a 2018 Outlander 850XT
Any help is appreciated.

Thanks - BranKon

Greetings all,

Been doing some research and collecting parts for the last 6 months off and on to build an off road trailer to pull behind my Sportsman around the farm/yard as well as to give me something to build this winter in the garage. I am going to explain what all I have and then ask for input on a few things now that I am into the mockup/brainstorming stage in the build.

I bought this little trailer from the local TSC to get me by in the meantime. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...kId=2487993406

I travel quite a bit for work and with my busy travel schedule its taken a while to get enough time at home to start this project.

I picked up a set of 2wd Scrambler 500 spindles/strut mounts and bearing hubs for less than 80 bucks on fleabay so that I can use my stock sportsman wheels and some junk tires for the trailer. I had intentions to modify the trailer I bought to fit 25" tire but abandoned that idea because my kiddos want to tow it behind their rzr and I use it behind the mower as well. Lifting it to fit the 25" tires I have would render it useless behind both of those vehicles.

After a little measuring I realized that 1 5/8" hrew tubing would fit into the scrambler spindle in place of the strut cartridge and still be able to use the pinch bolts that secure the strut into the 'knuckle'. This trailer will be solid suspension like most of the non walking beam trailers which will be fine for my use around the farm/yard.

I needed a way to be able to connect the spindles to a steel frame for the trailer and the steel 1 5/8" tubing will give me means to do so. I mocked up a set of front wheels on the spindles this evening and stuck a couple pieces of tubing in them to get an idea how tall the deck of the trailer would be. Here are a couple of pics during the mock up stage so I could start to visualize the trailer frame/hitch height and start to get an idea of the size.

Mockup from the rear:
Attachment 113261

1 5/8 tube in the strut housing
Attachment 113263

Guestimating trailer axle centerline.
Attachment 113265

More to come:

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Anyone has aftermarket wheels on a can am outlander L/max with a two inches spacer on the suspension

I have a Polaris 250 Trail Boss. It started leaking gas all over my garage floor, so I turned the gas off and it stopped. I think it may have a rotten gas line or the float valve is stuck open. I'm having trouble getting the shroud, that covers the gas tank, off. I took the 2 screws out, but it is still attached by something. I didn't want to force it and break something.
Can anyone help me.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Larry S.

I have a Polaris 250 Trail Boss. I can't figure out how to remove the shroud that covers the gas tank?? Can someone help me?
Thanks,
Larry

I’m about ready to pull the trigger on new wheels for my outlander 570. I see discounttiredirect has gfx wheels. The ones I’m looking at are the Six shooter 14”

The bolt pattern says 4/136. Can someone confirm that is correct for my outlander?

Any oppinions on lug nuts? Do I need special ones are can I rescue the stock ones?

Thanks for your input.

Hi all, I am selling an 05 Sportsman 700 EFI with a winch and Polaris plow. It also comes with a Polaris storage box for the rear rack. The quad is in good shape and just had a fresh fluid service and air filter change from a local Polaris dealer. It has 1945 miles and roughly 330 hours on it. Plastics are in great shape. Belt was changed last year and Ball joints are brand new. PM me if interested. $4300 OBO. Located in Dutchess County NY

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Finally was able to take the quad for a ride on the land that we hunt. All went well until the near end. While going up an incline at higher rpm's the temperature light came on and the engine stalled. Restarted with no issue so I went on my way and turned the quad around and went down the hill. All was well until I was riding the quad onto the trailer, again the temperature light came on but this time it did not stall.
Not sure what to make of this, if it could be the indication of an oncoming or existing issue that needs to be addressed.
Other than that the quad performed well throughout the property. Any thoughts on the temperature issue?

Can I get a little help here from the "TECHNICAL GURU's" on this subject? I'm in over my head here.
I have a 2015 Polaris 570 EFI Sportsman. I got it used when it was 2 years old with 90 miles and 10 hrs on it. I only am going to use this ATV for pushing snow and a little hunting so I haven't run it much since I got it. I have a winch and a linear actuator for the lift on the snow plow for accessories. The OEM battery was bad when I got it. This summer I finally got around to replacing it. After reading up on how this was a common fault and how others solved the problem, I upgraded the size of the battery and moved it ahead and angled it to fit the original battery location. I replaced the OEM battery (190 CCA, 16 amh) with a 325 CCA 19 AHR Duracell Ultra AGM battery. It's is slightly bigger physically than the OEM battery and weighs 17 lbs and was designed for a motorcycle application.
I had mentioned what I had done on another thread titled BATTERY LOCATION. One of the knowledgeable tech savvy guys on this site pointed out that this might be a mistake because the charging system might not be able to keep up with the 300 amp battery while running. The system could overheat and I could run into Battery/Rectifier/ Regulator/ Stater problems. He suggested I find out the output data for the stater and also the recommended rate of charge for the new battery.
I normally keep a battery tender plugged into the battery. I took the tender off the day before this next step. I put a volt meter on the battery with it just sitting, it read 12.74 volts. With the motor running it was reading 14.75. I did not run it very long so I am hopefully assuming that reading might change as the system charges. I can't find any technical data on my stater output. Do I need to rethink my solution to the battery size issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated.