Author: Forum News

Hello everyone. Just made an account after reading many folks threads on a problem I am having. Have reached out to a dealer and also BRP customer service and have not had much help.

I have the usual problem with the front struts on my 2010 outlander 500xt. I’ve owned it for 5-6 years and it’s been very reliable but over the past couple years the strut “topping out” thump has gotten to where it is not enjoyable to ride.

I’ve looked into aftermarket, nobody manufactures replacements. I’ve talked to the dealer and there is the OEM replacement. I asked if there has been a design change and he said the part number used to end in 1107 and What they sell now ends in 1108. But he does not know what changed.

I do not have a problem ordering new struts from can am. But I would like to know if anyone else has bought new factory struts, with the 1108 part number preferably, and if it solved the problem or if it came back in time again.

I’ve read about the conversion to a arms/shocks as well as the grizzly 600 struts as replacements, but I would rather not go that route if it can be avoided. If it can’t, then I would try the Grizzly struts.

Any input is appreciated!

I just bought a 2018 450 ho sportsman and have a cam chain tensioner noise so bad I took it back to the dealer and they said deal with it 2 months old only put 10 mi on it the dealer put more miles on it then I and I am so pissed. What can I do to remedy put on a aftermarket tensioner or live with it till it skips and blows up. This is my first Polaris purchase always bought Honda. For those who cant read between the lines no insult to any I mean any Polaris owners just to the one who ownes Polaris this is in fact a plead for help

Why is 4x4 engaged in reverse only available in a high speed? I would think it be more useful for everyone to be in a low speed? Anytime I’ve ever needed to back up and needed 4 wheel, I would have always preferred a slow safe speed......not a warning saying be careful, you’re going to be going fast. I’ve got a ‘04 Sportsman 600. Is there a work around to this?

Ok, so I went over to my brother's to help him with his '01 500 H.O. Duck Unlimited bike.

He couldn't figure out how to remove the choke and throttle cable, to replace the carb. By the time I arrived at his house, he had already ground down an old 12mm and got the choke cable out. I had his throttle cable off in about 2 seconds. Once he saw how it came off, he felt stupid, knowing that he can tear down a chev 350, but couldn't get a Mikuni carb off...haha.

So, we got the replacment carb on, and all the fuel lines on, then turned the key. Bingo-bango, a idling polaris in his garage. We put everything back together, and he took it down the street and it runs like it did when he bought it. We noticed that the small tube coming off the bottom of the carb had a very-very slow fuel drip. When we stopped the engine, the leak stopped.

Everything seems right. Normal idle, nice open throttle, back to normal idle. Just that slow drip.

Any ideas?

So I have had my bike for just about 6mths and I have put 25 hrs on it, I always from day 1 felt like it wasn't as fast as I thought it would be.

I drove it the other day and began to hear a rattle on the left side of the bike, I decided that I would do the 25hr service and try to locate cause of rattle, I took both foot wells off for oil change and to grease everything easier and I find that the rubber grommet that holds the exhaust has melted and the bolt and washer are rattling.

I also find the bolt to the left of the trunk above the exhaust is not holding and find the plastic melted and dripping on the exhaust wtf.

I plan to take it to the dealer Friday and see if it needs a reflash or something and see what can be done with the melted plastics. I also should mention my neighbor has a 2016 xt850 not a max, and we raced to 60mph and he puts 2 bikes on me, we switch drivers and have the same result. I really feel like mine should be faster or at worst even, because of my extra weight. I really think it's a computer/tune issue, my neighbors bike is also stock and shows no signs of melting plastic.

I see the clutch all over online, but upon watching a couple install videos people mention because of the 1000 platform you need to buy an extra sprint/weights, is this true? And if so where to buy them? 2013 renegade 1000 xxc

I see the clutch all over online, but upon watching a couple install videos people mention because of the 1000 platform you need to buy an extra sprint/weights, is this true? And if so where to buy them? 2013 renegade 1000 xxc

I have a 500 sportsman x2. when i go up the road it jumps to the left like it has slack in steering. I can not find any slack. This is not power steering. I have no idea where else to look. Please help as this is very dangerous.

Looking to replace the front axles of my '11 Outlander XTP Max 800. Any opinions on which one I should go w/? Stock and Rhino are $200 , the Titans are on sale for $150. Thanks for any suggestions.

Hi, long time Sportsman rider (2004 400 Hunter Model) owned for 12 years, used for hunting, plowing my driveway and work around my acreage.

A buddy offered me his 08 500 2X Touring with EFI at a decent price. Has 3500lb winch and snow plow. He owned it for 1 year and never used it. It's a better machine as I hunt in AZ and need to change the carb jets in the 400 every time I go there. Plus I can 2 up on it legally, in Iowa the DNR fines people riding double on ATV's $195. They feel it is safer to put another person on a sled (NOT!) we use them on lakes for ice fishing. And with EFI no choke is needed on the cold mornings.

I took headlight cover off on the Sportsman 500 and noticed the high beam wires were cut. Bulb was still there with two wire leads (yellow and brown) cut. (I had never tried the high beams the one time I drove it)

The machine has a plow and I wondered if the first owner would have cut the high beam and ran the switch wires to other lights? There aren't any on it, but often with plowing you can't see over the blade when it is up, so you run on high beam.

Any ideas why the high beams would be cut on this machine? I couldn't find the leads coming from the switch. I ruled out the mod and relay to run all three lights at once, heck the high beam isn't even connected.

Any mods out there common to these things I am missing? Are the wires coming from the switch the same color or does it go through a connector on its way to high beam bulb?

I have two other connectors not hooked to anything under the headlight dash cover. A black 2 wire squareish one and a white 4 wire one inline one with 5 volts on the two center contacts. Anyone know what these are?

Thanks