Author: Forum News

Jim from South Jordan, Utah.

Owner of a 2014 Sportsman XP 850 (Bionic Edition) and as of last Thursday, a 2018 Sportsman 1000 (Hunter Edition). I also own a Kawasaki Brute Force 750i that I bought ~10 months ago.

All are outfitted pretty much the same:

-Ricochet skid plates
-2.5-3 ton winch w/synthetic rope
-Maxxis Vipr tires
-Elka Stage 3 shocks
-10" LED Light Bar
-Heated grips / throttle
-Street Legal Kits

I average around 10,000 miles on an ATV in a ~3 year period. The 2014 now has just over 10,000 miles, but instead of selling like I'd normally do, its in the shop getting a full work-over. $1500 into it thus far.

The new 2018 Sportsman 1000 has a DIAG code (posted in another thread), but I put a hard ~240 miles on it for its maiden voyage the day after I picked it up for the ATV dealer! :grin


When I'm not putting in 16 hour days at work, or travelling to the middle east, I'm riding SOMEWHERE.

As I live in Utah, our terrain is super diverse: In summer, I can get up to 12,000' in the mountains, and in winter, I can ride Moab, the San Rafael Swell or head into Southern Nevada between Mesquite and Las Vegas to get away from the cold/snow.

I hope to be contributing about any maintenance and/or trail stuff related to Utah. Have a Utah ATV question, post it up!

As of ~3 weeks ago, I'm also now a State of Utah certified OHV Trail Guide!

My brake lights stay on all the time. Brakes are not on but the lights are.... I can start in gear without putting foot on the brake. What’s wrong?

After literally searching for months and phoning Polaris HQ about 2019 models (to no avail), a local dealer managed to find one last crate 2018 Sportsman 1000 in Hunter Edition! I bought it as quick as I could and took it out for its maiden journey this weekend.

In a single weekend, I racked up 240 miles across high elevation (12,000') and desert terrain in/around Circleville and Marysvale, Utah.

Sadly, somewhere around the last 20 miles on the last day, I noticed the ENGINE DIAG light illuminated. I pulled codes and got:

4
520203
1

The light only comes on for a moment at idle/park, then generally goes away when riding. I find no limp mode, no performance issues, AWD and ADC seem to work fine.

As far as I can tell, that code is related to a ground issue on the ADC.

Any assistance appreciated.

Note: 10 months ago, I also bought a new Kawasaki Brute Force 750.. we took both the new PO1000 and the Kawi BF750 out, with both myself and the wife riding each. The Kawi is going up for sale and we'll stick with the Polaris. I couldn't get the wife off the PO1000 after she got on it! :grin

I bought a 2015 Outlander L 500 New in 15 beat the snot out of it. It truly is well built. However, it did not like when I flipped it at 40mph. bent the left rear control arm left front upper and lower A arms.
My problem is I understand that the shaft holding the rear control arm in place is a solid shaft. what I don't understand, is, how to get the nut broke loose without destroying it. I believe my first mistake was heating the nut. That I found to be nylon. I can't get it to budge. Anyone pull one of these apart?

Thanks. RIDE On my friends.

I bought a 2015 Outlander L 500 New in 15 beat the snot out of it. It truly is well built. However, it did not like when I flipped it at 40mph. bent the left rear control arm left front upper and lower A arms.
My problem is I understand that the shaft holding the rear control arm in place is a solid shaft. what I don't understand, is, how to get the nut broke loose without destroying it. I believe my first mistake was heating the nut. That I found to be nylon. I can't get it to budge. Anyone pull one of these apart?

Thanks. RIDE On my friends.

Hello! I found a few posts on this topic - but hoping someone has some more details / advice for my problem. A few weeks back, I noticed moisture behind the glass of the speedometer, and had intermittent issues with the high beam indicator staying on, and once or twice the power steeling failed altogether. After a few days, it was operating "normally" again, but after some searching online, I saw others had similar problems related to moisture behind the speedometer glass.

The dealer had literally JUST performed annual maintenance before I had this problem, so they agreed to look at it again. They have recently told they no longer qualify as an official Polaris dealership (something to do with the size of their showroom), so - maybe not surprisingly, they dropped off the unit back at my house, without much explanation besides, "it was fixed". However, there is STILL moisture behind the speedometer. It looks like I may have to try and get this fixed myself, since the next dealership is very, very far from me.

Sorry for the long-winded post - but I felt maybe some background was necessary, since I certainly would expect people to just tell me to bring it back to the dealership, which is not likely a good option for me.

Has anyone removed the speedometer front successfully? It LOOKS like the case may twist off, but didn't want to try that until someone can confirm that's how to open it up (and close it). Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Tom

Bought my used renegade not to long ago, broke the right rear axle shortly after, order a replacement interparts axle and installed yesterday, drove around for a bit and was fine, went for a ride today and ripped around a track for 5 or 10 minutes, and the right rear axle blew again. I’m assuming it’s the 2” lift, but I don’t want to get rid of it, I’m looking at 2 new rear demon HD axles and wanted opinions on them, also, what’re the chances I’m going to grenade the stock diff with HD axles?

I was given an 04 Sportsman 700 efi. im getting a code 51. I've installed new plugs, rebuilt injectors, fuel pump and crank sensor. I've gone through all of the wiring and plugs, fixed any problems and ohms of shorts. i have 45 psi fuel
Not sure were to look now. It will run but not idle. I have the throttle cable adjusted so it idles high to run.

Thanks

Hello from Sweden everyone!

I’m new to the forum, Can-Am and ATV riding in general. I bought my 1000 XMR -14 a couple of weeks back as my first ATV. It’s used but in excellent condition and runs great.

I’ve been browsing a lot through the forum and gotten a bit concerned with the melting plastic problem on the XMR’s. I have not yet seen any such tendencies on my machine which has been running for 70 hours now. The plastic on and under the saddle looks fine as well as the plastic near the rear silencer. Perhaps i’m just lucky but i feel tempted to do some shielding around the exhaust as a precaution.

Anyway i’m glad i found this community, it’s been very useful! :smile

Cheers

Attached Images

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Skärmavbild 2018-09-23 kl. 18.54.07.png (3.37 MB)

I'm replacing the stock shocks on my 2018, 1000 XP with the stage 4 Elka’s. Anyone out there done this and have some feedback on the ride? Better? Worse? No change?
Thanks!