Category: Forum News

Hey guys new to the forums and the polaris world. I recently got a 2012 sportsman 400 h.o from a family member. It ran great I noticed the oil leave was low so I topped it up with Rotella 5w40 until I got enough oil to do a change. As soon as I put the oil it it started to smoke pretty bad on acceleration. So I ran to town picked up some oil and a filter & and new air filter, And changed it out, primed the pump it is still smoking. I did not overfill either time I put oil in. Other than the smoke it seems to run really well. Just not sure where to start. The only thing I noticed is that the oil tank vent that your suppose to pinch for priming. The plastic end that's on the oil tank is broken off so there is just a hole in the tank that I covered with my finger to prime. It never smoked when it was low on oil but I soon as I filled up it started. Please help thank you.

Does any one know where you can get touch up paint or similar paint for the 2010 Outlander Max 800 LTD Radiant Red?
Thanks

Hey guys, new to the forum and new to the Polaris world. Just sold my 2001 Honda Rancher 350 and bought a 2007 Sportsman 450 with 1400 miles and 140 hours. Anyway, my rear camber is off and the top of my wheels are leaning in. I looked at the bushings and they're all shot. So, I'd like to replace all the bushings in the front and rear A Arms and all the wheel bearings. From what I've read on here, people say to replace the metal rods in the A Arms as well. (Don't know what they're called).

Can anyone provide a link to a complete set of bushings for the front and rear that include the metal rod? Also, does anyone sell a complete set of bearings? I'm aware of the gentleman on the site that sells the high quality non lubricating bushings but I'm looking to spend much less. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, Are A Arm bushings the same on 450, 500, 700 Sportsmans? That might help narrow my search.

I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I'm working on my son-in-law's 2015 Sportsman 570 which used to be mine. It only has about 350 miles on it. He was riding it a couple of weeks ago and it started running really rough. He had to really fan the throttle to get it back to the trailer. It threw a trouble code, 636, I believe. Whatever it was, it was indicating the Crank Position Sensor. I removed it and it reads about 1000 Ohms. I checked the one on my 2017 Sportsman 570 and it read the same, so I think the sensor is okay. The bike will sometimes start, but when it does it will not idle, and backfires. This leads me to believe the flywheel key has been sheared. I've read plenty of threads on the interwebs of folks shearing the key.

So, my question is, can I remove the stator housing without draining the radiator? I've removed all the stator cover bolts and it moves around a bit. I'm guessing the magnets are holding it in place. It doesn't want to come off and I'm afraid to persuade it. I can make a couple of handles and mount them using a couple of the water pump cover bolts, but I want to make sure there's not something else I need to remove under the water pump housing.

I purchased a PDF manual and have read through the appropriate sections and don't see any mention of any additional bolts or clips or anything. I really just want to get a look at the flywheel key without draining the coolant. If I need to replace the key, I'm guessing I'm going to have to drain it, but I sure hate to do so on a hunch.

Any ideas?

And any ideas on what's going on with all the reports of sheared flywheel keys? Short of not having the crank bolt tightened enough, I can't image shearing one on a bike with a CVT.


-Matt

I was out the other day with my 2014 Outlander 1000 XT and got stuck bad in the mud with the front wheels in the air. I was getting a loud grinding noise when the front wheels would spin. I friend of mine with an 850XMR sad this is normal and all Can Am's do this. I did some reading and it could be sighns of a bad front diff. Can I get some opinions as this is my first Can Am

This is my first post, Hello everyone. I'm Matt from Saint Clair Shores, MI. I recently bought a Can Am Outlander 450. I took it Up North a few weeks ago and did the whole 10 hour break in period in one weekend. Rode some awesome trails in Lewiston, MI. Man.... that was tough. I wanted to just stab the throttle and see what she could do, but I behaved the entire time, keeping it under 40 mph. Once I got it back home, I changed the oil and diff fluids.

My plow arrived yesterday. I put it together and bolted it on, no problem. The problem is is that I'm a rather big guy... 6'5" and Ummm, pretty heavy. So when I raise the plow, the front end droops A LOT. Also... when I hit the brakes.... scrape... scrape.... scrape (the plow frame, because of the machine nose diving). I had my neighbor get on it (He also has a Can-Am with a plow) and try it, but he is half my weight, so no scraping. So I thought... oh... no problem, I'll just raise the pre-load adjusters on the front all the way up. Well, that doesn't raise it up much at all. They are set right in the middle from the factory. All the way up only raised the machine like 3/4", realistically. And the problem is still there. So, I ordered a 2" lift kit off of Ebay. The aluminum spacers that go in the springs. They are 1" thick, but are said to give 2" lift.

OK, enough of my yapping, on to my questions...

Question #1 I heard that Once you put these spacers in, you shouldn't make any "on the machine" pre-load adjustments, because the spring is now much tighter and you could break the adjuster. Is this true?

Question #2 With the spacers installed, but the pre-loads all the way loose, am I still going to sit higher than if I had no spacers, but the pre-loads all the way tight?

My magnum 500 was idling in my driveway and sputteed out n quit n wont start back.not sure the model

Earlier this year we had an opportunity to spend a few days riding the 2017 Polaris General Deluxe – a UTV that can serve you well on the jobsite or the trails.

If you think for a second that you cannot have fun in the cab of a UTV on the job, then just maybe you haven’t discovered the challenges of life through the windshield of a Polaris General. After a week’s worth of running around the farm we had plenty of insight on just what the Polaris General was capable of.

Fast Facts
MSRP: $20,299
Seating Capacity: 2
Engine: 999cc Twin
Power: 100 hp
Bed Capacity: 600 lbs
Towing Capacity: 1,500 lbs

Our setting for the 2017 Polaris General Deluxe test was the mountainous ridges of Northern Georgia, which offered up a variety of rocks, roots, ups and downs, along with a little mud and some creek crossing. The weather was partially cloudy on most days, but the rain held off for the most part. Some of the tasks we wanted to venture into were obviously cab comfort during a day of beating the fence posts, real life work including towing as well as loading the cargo box for a drive around the hills there. Let’s take a look at how it all shook out.

Check out the review here: 2017 Polaris General Deluxe Review + Video - ATV.com

hi I'm new to this forum. I'm hoping to get some help with 2010 850 knocking and spitting oil out of plug in top of stator cover. I had the pcv freeze 2 years ago so I replaced valve cover with updated cover, everything ok for 2 yrs. This fall I had oil in air filter so I removed the felt filter on pcv and no more problem there. Machine locked up on me after a long ride and would not restart as if the motor was locked up, then after being towed for a few miles I tried and it started and ran fine for about a month then the same thing happened, wouldn't start and had to be towed then got it to start but engine knocking and belt smoking. Sorry about the long post and I know there's some similar posts. I CANNOT FIND WHAT CAUSED THIS, HOW DO I REPAIR, AND HOW DO I PREVENT FROM HAPPENING AGAIN. Was this caused from that pos pcv. I have a video of engine running but couldn't get it to upload. Tried talking to Polaris but that was of no use. Thanks for any help

Need any help I can get trying to find someone to repair my ECU ECM MPEM (part number 70000109) or find a replacement as it's been in the shop for almost 6 months. Went in to have the electric start fixed and now the tech said it has shifting problems (didn't before it went in though). Will shift up, but only intermittently shift back down. He said there's no power coming out of the box and so it needs replaced. However, this part is no longer made.
Does anyone have suggestions on where to find one of these or where to get it repaired?