Category: Forum News

My 2012 Polaris Sportsman 400 runs great until I ride it for about 30 minuted and it starts stalling on me. It will start again after a few minutes then sputter and stall when I ride it again. I let it cool and then is will start up again. Any ideas on what could cause this?

Howdy,
I'm looking at a 2015 Ace 570 trying to extend my years on a ranch. How well do these things run continuously at an idle while trailing cows down the road? Does anyone else trail with these machines and will I have problems overheating?
Right now I ride a 2017 Honda Rancher, but due to a shoulder surgery awhile back it really plays heck with me when I have to really boonie crash the crap out of it. We go anywhere the cows go! How well does the Ace hold up to severe abuse over rocks, trees and severe hills?
Thanks for you time,
Allan

I have a problem with my 2005 sportsman 700 efi. While riding, it keeps losing power like it's totally shutting down, everything on the dash shuts off then it comes back to life and runs perfect. It was having this issue when I would turn left, but it corrected itself. It then would have the battery symbol flash, get low enough on power to run like crap and start cutting in and out, then suddenly run perfect and no more battery icon. I replaced the stator and voltage regulator. Then I took it on a test ride and it ran perfectly for about 10 minutes, but the headlights would cut out momentary, then it started to cut out a little, then a lot, then die, restart, die, run for a bit... you get the idea. The gas gauge has been cutting in and out for a long time, but it always ran fine.
Also, the 4 wheel drive has been engaging in and out lately even though the switch is off.
Chasing ghosts is getting old, I just ordered a used wiring harness, but I'm not sure if it will fix it even after all the time it will take to switch it.
I looked at getting a OTB T-BAP, but it's not about losing power IN the engine, it's losing power to the WHOLE bike.

Guy's I have a 1997 Polaris Sportsman 400L and for some reason the left front wheel keeps locking up. I have dismantled both front calipers and cleaned the pistons, removed the Brake master cylinder, cleaned it out, checked the gaskets, put it together and flushed the brake lines but it seems to build pressure in the system and only the left front wheel locks. I bleed the left front brake caliper and all is good for a week or so and then pressure builds back up and the wheel again locks up. The ATV only has 475 miles any suggestions? I'm stumped. Next stop is the Polaris dealer and I do not want to take it If I can fix it.

Why a 10 Character password? major pain.... my two cents.:sad

i just bought a 95 magnum 425 with low gear only. is it possible/much work to mount a hi gear?

Bit of a silly question but I'm a newb so please forgive. Have two 2017 Sportsman 450 HO ATVs. One stopped starting and was fixed by the technician replacing the spark plug. I don't have a trailer yet so they had to come out to do it. Now the other has the same problem and I figured I'd try replacing it myself but I can't find it on the head. Any tips for replacing the spark plug? The videos I watched showed a red boot but neither of them cover a spark plug in this model and the manual gives no indications of where it is and how to get to it best.

Thanks,
Greg

First, the good news: it cranks strong and long and has a fat, bright, strong spark.

If fuel is sprayed into the air inlet duct to the throttle body, the engine will run.
And Yes, I know how dangerous that is.

The fuel tank has been removed and cleaned.
The fuel pump runs and fuel flows out of the hose going into the injector.
I have NOT measured the fuel Pressure as I haven’t been able to rig up a gauge.
When ignition is turned ON and/or cranking the engine, no fuel comes out of the Injector.

The Fuel Injector has the correct resistance as measured with my Fluke 179.
The wiring connector to the Fuel Injector was tested and neither wire (Red/BLK and WHT) had continuity to ground.

With the Ignition Switch ON, the Red/Blk wire had BATT voltage both to the WHT wire and to Ground.
I presume that the ECU controls the Injector by completing the circuit to ground through the WHT wire.

Additionally, when the ignition is turned ON, the fuel pump runs briefly and the stepper motor in the throttle body runs to both limits. (whirrrr whirrr click click chatter chatter)
And Yes, I have already read and re-read EFI 101. Great info there.

CODES

The following Blink Codes are present:

41 Inlet Air Temp Low or High Voltage
47 Idle Air Control Open Load or Short to Ground
51 Injector Open Load or Short Circuit to Battery
55 Diagnostic Lamp Short Circuit to Ground or Battery

41 IAT
The resistance across the terminals on the IAT probe immersed in 68° water
is 2.490k-ohm, close enough for Gov’t work. (Appears the Service Manual is
mistaken in listing the value as ohms instead of K-ohms.)
Measured 5vdc at the IAT connector, Orange wire to ground and to
Purple(violet?).
Checked continuity to ground of both wires and Orange has 3.48k-ohms to
ground and Purple(violet?) has continuity to ground.

I do NOT understand how the Code could be correct if both the Voltage and Resistance are either Correct or very close to Spec.

47 IAC
Checked the resistance across the pins on the IAC per the Service Manual
and the values are pretty close:

PINS Spec Actual Diff
1-2 30+/- 1.2 32.0 +0.8 ohm
2-3 30+/- 1.2 31.7 +0.5 ohm
1-3 60+/- 2.4 63.4 +1.0 ohm
4-5 30+/- 1.2 31.5 +0.3 ohm
5-6 30+/- 1.2 32.3 +1.0 ohm
4-6 60+/- 2.4 63.5 +1.1 ohm

Without knowing where the wires on the connector go, I can’t begin to determine if one is “short(ed) to ground”. And I don’t really understand the definition of “Open Load”.

51 Injector
It has the correct voltage and resistance; it has fuel, it isn’t working. Not a squirt, not a dribble.
Again, I don’t understand the term “Open Load”.

55 Diagnostic Lamp
If I understand correctly, I should get a Check Engine (MIL) light when Codes are present. I have four Codes and there is NO Check Engine light on the instrument panel. Frankly, I’ll worry about that one later, unless it’s a function of a faulty ECU. Can a Dealership bench test the ECU? (NOT to be confused with PDM, Power Distribution Module, which has been repaired and is apparently functioning well.)

As for clearing codes, the battery has been disconnected for days and the same codes reappear. I have replaced the IAT and fuel injector to no avail. Everything else appears to working normally.

I would greatly appreciate ANY ideas or suggestions as to the source of these Codes, how to diagnose the problems and how to go about “fixing” them and getting this vehicle running again.


MaxTorque

I watched a youtube video of how to remove the primary clutch the proper way. The guy says he uses a locking bolt to lhold the crankshaft in position. I cannot find where he puts this bolt in the motor to hold it into position. I have the online manual and it dose not show that technique being used. I started to clean my clutches but stopped short of removing the sheaves because of lack of confidencein what im doing. Is it really necessary to lock the crankshaft or is the right way to do it. I also dont see that bolt in the repair book, maybe for earlier models or larger than the 650. The other part that confuses me is when removing the secondary clutch ,,then re insatlling it the put a screwdriver in the back of the helix and spring, what are they trying to do here, anybody know, let me know thanks.

I just bought a 2011 Sportsman 850 XP and want to change the tranny fluid. I have read both 5w20 and 75w90 and am not sure which is better or why?

While I am here I have also read ATF for the front diff. Is that a good option or am I better off with the tractor oil that Hilliard recommends?

Thanks