Category: Forum News

Hey guys. I have a 98 Polaris Sportsman 500. I've been having performance issues for a while now…mostly bogging and recently what I want to say is some type of miss. Ive had to replace a few things over the couple of years since my dad sold it to me. It originally became mine when my dad bought a 700 but I ended up buying it when I moved far away. Today I decided I would adjust my valves. I know its supposed to be done every 100 hours or so and I'm afraid to even guess how many times im over that.

Anyways, as I was setting it to TDC, I noticed the recoil plug "T" was off compared to all of my other TDC markings. From looking at the pictures below, could anyone tell me if this is typical for the TDC markings. I did get my exhaust and intake valves set to .006, just wanted to make sure my timing isn't slightly off. Thanks.

I have a project going on in my garage so unfortunately my ATVs have been spending the last week outside.

Last night there was a heavy rain and after backing up my Outlander about 20ft and putting it in high it felt like there was no power being sent to the wheels. I had a feeling it was the CVT even though nothing sounded out of the norm. I took the cover off and water poured out. I'd estimate that it was about half way filled.

Any ideas how the water got in?

I'm just curious since I've never driven one how the control of the accelerator is over bumps

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Anybody else have something like this happen?
2015 Sportsman 1000 - 7400 Miles, 360 Hours or so. Factory battery, all stock charging system.

I was riding at night this weekend, and had some weird electrical things going on. A couple of times, when I was doing about 45-50 MPH and had throttle on running about 6000 RPM or more, my headlights would cut out (I have the Polaris LED headlights that came on the scramblers- maybe they have an overvoltage safety?). I have the interactive digital display so I kept an eye on voltage when this happened, and saw voltage spike to 18-19 VDC from its normal 14.5 VDC at anything under 6000 rpm.

I assumed, and ordered a replacement voltage regulator which will arrive at the end of the week, but now I'm second guessing... wondering if anyones had a similar issue and if so what was the solution.

Or any suggestions to try before I replace the factory regulator?

I've owned my '13 Outlander 1000XT for about 3 weeks. It has 430 miles on it and has a Dalton clutch kit and 28" silverbacks. I had the belt replaced just because I was planning on going on a big rally this weekend so I wanted to do a little preventative maintenance. I sprained my wrist so I had the dealer do the work. I went out this weekend for my 3rd ride on it (I've put a sum total of 24 miles on it since purchase) and after breaking in the belt I opened it up on a gravel road in high gear and hit about 50mph before the quad sputtered and free-revved almost like it was in neutral.

I came to a stop and did a quick visual inspection of everything including the driveshaft and cv axles. I took off again and it was fine, and then it did the same thing again at about the same speed, and again after that. I came to a stop and the quad would barely move, smoke was pouring from my cvt exhaust snorkel and I could hear the belt slipping every time I tried to move it in gear. It wouldn't shift out of gear even after rocking it. We eventually got it into neutral and the rear tires were still locked like it was in gear. We fired it up and pulled it a little with another quad and it finally went into neutral. We got back to camp and I took off the belt cover expecting to see shards of belt but the belt is fine, barely even looks smoked. The quad still barely moves, makes an awful grinding/ratcheting noise when it does and slips the belt. There were a few tiny shards of cast aluminum around the secondary and the secondary has a little bit of up/down play.

Could there be something piled up in my transmission or is this a clutch issue? Could this be some damage caused by the dealer doing work on the quad? Finding 3 stripped clutch cover bolts makes me less than confident in their workmanship. I don't want to take it back there but it seems awfully coincidental that I put 5 miles on the quad after they worked on it, and now I have clutch issues. I will see if I can post up some videos in a bit.

Any suggestions on what to look for are greatly appreciated! :wink

So my left side wheel bearing cooked itself a couple weeks ago and in the process of ordering parts. Seems as though BRP doesn't make OEM wheel bearings anymore and don't wanna risk getting a junk kit online. Out of all the aftermarket bearings. Any suggestions on where to purchase a good quality wheel bearing?

Hey, changed rear axle bearings, broke sprocket hub getting it off. Does anybody know what years and models would interchange?

Thanks

Here's the situation.

2014 Outlander 1000XT

Two months ago I took it for a ride. It shut off randomly...had to tow it home. Once I got it home it would not start...no attempt to start. Several messages on pod, such as, "Transmission Signal Fault", "Communication Error" etc.

Started looking everything over and found that one of the 40amp fuses under the seat had blown and actually melted through the connector. I thought that was it...replace the fuse and I'm good to go. Got a replacement...still no go. Pulled the plastics and got to the front fuse box. Some...but not all of the fuses in the front box were getting power. Got out the meter and test light. Some things got 12v from the battery/rear fuse box...but others didn't.

I got a friend who owns BUDS to drop by. He could not read any of the modules. I pulled my ECM...tried it in another bike...it worked with my key...so I assume ECM is ok.

Tried another gauge pod..no go.

Tried another key switch and key...no go.

Tried a working GBPS...no go

Had some holidays from work...so the bike sat for a few weeks. On the advice of my friend I ordered another harness from Ebay. He thought there was a short/break/melted set of wires somewhere between the rear fuse box and the front.

I pulled the original harness. Put in the new one.

Now I get power both to the rear fuse box and the front fuse box.

When I turn on the key I still get "Transmission Signal Fault" and "Communication Error" and an "E" for gear indicator.

I'm at a loss...

I've searched and did everything everyone has suggested for these errors...but still no start.

Help.

Please

Anyone have any contact info. I do not do Facebook. So is there any way to order from him? I am not having any luck. He has not been on this forum for over a year. Thanks

Hello from Romania!

I am willing to buy a Can Am Outlander 650, and I found one that fits my budget.
So I asked for a video from the owner and I think the engine doesn't sound so good.
Please take a look at this video:
https://goo.gl/photos/VDqstJx3SRcjYphn7

I think that:
1. It started slow and it made a weird sound.
2. I hear a clicking sound while it works.
3. At minute 1.25, I think it made a bad sound while decelerating.

I also don't understand why it has 'outlander' stickers instead of 'brp', like all the others I've seen.

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate your help!