Recently on high beam the lower lights quit working but on low beams they work. Jiggled a bunch of wires around but no luck. Anyone know if it could possibly be a relay of some sort they may have gone bad?
Tail Lights Melting
I have a 2009 Sportsman 550 XP EPS and when I went to change one of the bulbs in the tail light I noticed the plastic housing was melted. Since I bought the quad used, I figured someone put in the wrong bulbs when they replaced them. So I ordered new tail light assemblies for both the right and left side from Polaris (came with bulbs and sockets). Installed them and did some checking to make sure the brake lights were not stuck on.
However, after a couple hours working on it, came up with the following questions.
1. The bulb itself has the large filaments illuminated and the very small filament is NOT illuminated. My assumption was the small filament in the bulb was for tail lights and the large were for brake lights. Is my assumption correct?
2. No matter what I do, I can’t seem to get the brake lights to work either from the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal, is it because they are stuck on or is there another reason? If the brake lights are stuck on, is this why my assemblies melted? This led me to more questions lol.
3. Does the brake light activate from the foot brake pedal or does it only activate from the front brake lever? If it only activates from the front brake lever, then I’m wondering if the brake light switch in the lever system is simply bad. BUT, question remains about the bulb in question 1.
I simply don’t want to waste $160 on new tail light assemblies by having the assemblies melt down again. Thank you for your consideration in helping me by answering my questions and concerns.
However, after a couple hours working on it, came up with the following questions.
1. The bulb itself has the large filaments illuminated and the very small filament is NOT illuminated. My assumption was the small filament in the bulb was for tail lights and the large were for brake lights. Is my assumption correct?
2. No matter what I do, I can’t seem to get the brake lights to work either from the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal, is it because they are stuck on or is there another reason? If the brake lights are stuck on, is this why my assemblies melted? This led me to more questions lol.
3. Does the brake light activate from the foot brake pedal or does it only activate from the front brake lever? If it only activates from the front brake lever, then I’m wondering if the brake light switch in the lever system is simply bad. BUT, question remains about the bulb in question 1.
I simply don’t want to waste $160 on new tail light assemblies by having the assemblies melt down again. Thank you for your consideration in helping me by answering my questions and concerns.
2000 Mag 325 4X4 Valve cover
New to this .. bear with me
Purchased new, 1 owner .. me. Only been used around the yard.. 18 years. Never 1 problem, so with that something is bound to happen eventually understood. Started and warmed up to plow snow this year, suddenly oil gushing from top of motor. took apart, found valve cover had came off. Replaced cover and checked other cover to find it had backed out a couple turns as well. Resnugged covers and reassembled. Started and plowed for an hour and a half. No leak, no incident. 4 days later started in shop to warm up, and same thing happened.
Any suggestions for cause ?
Any suggestions for solutions ?
Thanks
Purchased new, 1 owner .. me. Only been used around the yard.. 18 years. Never 1 problem, so with that something is bound to happen eventually understood. Started and warmed up to plow snow this year, suddenly oil gushing from top of motor. took apart, found valve cover had came off. Replaced cover and checked other cover to find it had backed out a couple turns as well. Resnugged covers and reassembled. Started and plowed for an hour and a half. No leak, no incident. 4 days later started in shop to warm up, and same thing happened.
Any suggestions for cause ?
Any suggestions for solutions ?
Thanks
WTB Polaris Scrambler 3 wheeler
Anyone have one of these they want to sell?
01 sportsman front hub bearings…
Morning guys, got a question about my 500...doing some maintenance that started with a belt and solenoid, turned into brakes, all 4 axles, changed all fluids and a few other things, I'm sure many know the drill....anyway I'm putting the front axles back together and was going to re-grease the bearing as I always do on cars and I remembered reading somewhere you should not do that on these machines because bearing grease contaminates the demand drive oil, is this the case?? The demand drive oil is good enough in the hubs?? Thanks for any help, Ron
battery maintenance or replace
Hey everyone! So the battery in my Outlander is plugged into a NOCO Genius G1100 battery maintainer and the wheeler is kept in a heated garage. It always starts fine but yesterday I went ice fishing and it sat in the cold for a few hours and it did not want to start. Finally after 5 or 6 tries it started and I was able to make it home. I have no idea how old the battery is. For all I know it could be the original battery from 2009. My question is, should I try to add some distilled water or acid to the battery or just buy a new one?
2013 outlander 1000 shocks
I have a 2013 outlander 1000 with a 4" catvos lift and basic outlander xt shocks. All 4 shocks have a 2" puck lift. My question is, if I purchase the fox podium shocks that have preload adjustment, will I be able get away from the pucks and set my ride height with the preload on the fox shocks. Also input if this is a good idea or not. I ride mostly mud and slow speed trails. Thanks in advance.
2010 860xp NGK Spark plu gap……
Ive been doing preventative maintenance on my 2010 850xp, all fluids, grease fittings and replaced the spark plugs with NGK (6799) LZKAR7A , the factory gap is.035, do most of you guys stay with that gap or have you had better idling, running machines with a different gap setting?
2006 Outlander 650 Models
I bought a 2006 Outlander 650 XT Max about a week ago and am confused about some of the designators used.
From various places I've read, it seems that there's a
650
650 XT
650 MAX
650 XT MAX
I've kind of come to the conclusion that the XT is the winch and the MAX is the 2-up configuration.
If that's right, are there any other differences of note? I imagine these distinctions apply to other nearby years, 2007/08, etc?
Is the Max chassis/wheelbase any longer?
Thanks
From various places I've read, it seems that there's a
650
650 XT
650 MAX
650 XT MAX
I've kind of come to the conclusion that the XT is the winch and the MAX is the 2-up configuration.
If that's right, are there any other differences of note? I imagine these distinctions apply to other nearby years, 2007/08, etc?
Is the Max chassis/wheelbase any longer?
Thanks
2006 Outlander 650 Models
I bought a 2006 Outlander 650 XT Max about a week ago and am confused about some of the designators used.
From various places I've read, it seems that there's a
650
650 XT
650 MAX
650 XT MAX
I've kind of come to the conclusion that the XT is the winch and the MAX is the 2-up configuration.
If that's right, are there any other differences of note? I imagine these distinctions apply to other nearby years, 2007/08, etc?
Is the Max chassis/wheelbase any longer?
Thanks
From various places I've read, it seems that there's a
650
650 XT
650 MAX
650 XT MAX
I've kind of come to the conclusion that the XT is the winch and the MAX is the 2-up configuration.
If that's right, are there any other differences of note? I imagine these distinctions apply to other nearby years, 2007/08, etc?
Is the Max chassis/wheelbase any longer?
Thanks