Hello, just bought a 2016 maverick 1000r. Has 2500 miles on it. While riding, I can smell oil burning and belt slips bad at just taking off. Torn into it tonight and seen all kinds of oil around rear head and primary clutch has a light coat of rust. Plus when I started it. Rear exhaust starting smoking and I could smell burning oil. Did I buy a worn out can am. Guy said it was serviced at dealer every 500 miles. I called dealer and they confirmed it was serviced at the intervals it should have been. Sorry about all the pictures, but gives everyone a good ideal. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Attachment 85350Attachment 85354Attachment 85352Attachment 85352 https://youtu.be/jJkffH33hIM
2003 sportsman 600 twin
I had posted earlier that I was having problems with my carburetor. Gas was pouring out the overflow tube and just wasn’t running good. Good news all fixed and running great. Here’s s couple tips for future reference. I purchased a kit for the carburetor. Prior to installing clean it up. Make sure the throttle cable has about 1/8 freeplay or it won’t idle down and I adjusted the fuel adjuster back 1&3/4 turns. Some will be different it just takes patience. I’ve done axle,bushings including steering bushing. Brake shoes caliper and flushed old brake fluid. Also fixed water pump leak.
2008 800 sportsman over heating.
Hello guys and gals. And i wanna say thanks for any help in advance. I have a 2008 800 sportsman thats wanting to overheat. You can hear it bubbling in the system after letting it run for about 10 or so minutes. Ive cleaned radiator inside and out. Flushed the block. Checked water pump impeller and it is ok. It has no thermostat in it which is why i am wondering how its overheating without it. And fan runs all the time.
switch problems ?
any suggestions why on 08 400 outlander the switch will not change from 4 wheel to 2 wheel. switch tested ok.
2006 Sportsman EFI won’t idle
I purchased a used 2006 Sportsman with Electronic Fuel Injection and It won't idle without keeping your thumb on the throttle. It just idles really low and dies. It's fairly hard starting also. Once you get going it seems to run fine and has plenty of power just like my 1999 Sportsman. There's no idle adjust screw like on my carburated 1999. Should I be running Hi Octane gas? The gas (low octane) is fairly new by the way. Maybe a couple months old. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
1997 xplorer 500 speedometer, how does it work
I’m down to fixing somewhat unnecessary items on my Xplorer. Speedo never worked since I got it. Pulled the speedo, and it was corroded and frozen on the inside. Cable was still in it when I took it off. The reset knob was missing, and it’s obvious that a ton of water got in there over a long period of time. I got a speedo from a polaris snowmobile of the same year in really good shape, really cheap. I don’t care if it’s accurate, I’d just like it to move. As I said, I’m just fiddling with little stuff at this point and will get it working if I can do it cheaply. So I Installed the speedo, put the ATV on my lift, and ran it in gear. Speedo didn’t move. Unhooked cable from speedo and ran it in gear looking at cable end, didn’t move. Unhooked the cable (at both ends) and made sure the insides of the speedo moved freely, they did, as I said, it’s in really good shape. Made sure when I spun one end of the cable, the other end moved, spins fine. By process of elimination, I’m at the speedo gear on the transmission as the culprit. I’m assuming that since the old speedo was frozen, the gear inside the housing got damaged. I haven’t taken it off yet because I wanted to see if anyone on here could explain what’s in there and how it works before I take it off and have to replace the gasket. If it’s fixable or replaceable for cheap, I’ll take it off and continue fiddling. If it will be a big pain, I’ll leave it alone and live with a pretty speedo that doesn’t function, and move on to something else. Thanks for any assistance or info.
1997 xplorer 500 speedometer, how does it work
I’m down to fixing somewhat unnecessary items on my Xplorer. Speedo never worked since I got it. Pulled the speedo, and it was corroded and frozen on the inside. Cable was still in it when I took it off. The reset knob was missing, and it’s obvious that a ton of water got in there over a long period of time. I got a speedo from a polaris snowmobile of the same year in really good shape, really cheap. I don’t care if it’s accurate, I’d just like it to move. As I said, I’m just fiddling with little stuff at this point and will get it working if I can do it cheaply. So I Installed the speedo, put the ATV on my lift, and ran it in gear. Speedo didn’t move. Unhooked cable from speedo and ran it in gear looking at cable end, didn’t move. Unhooked the cable (at both ends) and made sure the insides of the speedo moved freely, they did, as I said, it’s in really good shape. Made sure when I spun one end of the cable, the other end moved, spins fine. By process of elimination, I’m at the speedo gear on the transmission as the culprit. I’m assuming that since the old speedo was frozen, the gear inside the housing got damaged. I haven’t taken it off yet because I wanted to see if anyone on here could explain what’s in there and how it works before I take it off and have to replace the gasket. If it’s fixable or replaceable for cheap, I’ll take it off and continue fiddling. If it will be a big pain, I’ll leave it alone and live with a pretty speedo that doesn’t function, and move on to something else. Thanks for any assistance or info.
Just saying Hi!
Wanted to introduce myself. I've been riding ATV's for almost 30 years now and still have a passion for it. I will be buying a new Outlander Max in the next few weeks and I will have some questions for you guys. 😁
Finally broke down. Lol
I keep getting tired of needing isoflex and never have any left and having to order it and wait for it to come. I finally broke down and bought a can of it from my dealer. This should last me as long as I own Can Am’s and Ski doo’s.
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Can’t Bleed 1990 Trail Boss 4×4 Brake System
I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.
The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).
I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.
I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.
I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.
There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.
When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.
The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.
I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.
Any thoughts?
The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).
I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.
I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.
I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.
There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.
When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.
The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.
I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.
Any thoughts?