Category: Forum News

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

I've been pulling my hair out on what should be a simple project. This all started with a Master Cylinder rebuild/replacement. Kudos to Latebird for helping me get the MC reassembled without damaging the U seal.

The "why" is a long story which I'll spare you. I have now replaced the Master Cylinder and all four of the brake lines. I have rebuilt the front two calipers. I did not rebuild the rear caliper but I did at least get the piston unstuck. I don't know how common the rear brake system is on this Trail Boss; its a dual system that runs off the master cylinder and off a foot pedal that actuates a cam to manually push the slave cylinder piston (I think).

I have tried everything I know to bleed the system and cannot get it to build pressure.

I have let the system gravity drain at each slave cylinder until no air comes out.
I have pumped the MC until no more air comes out of the MC compensating port
I have tested the MC - it does works; I get pressure at the MC outlet.
I have tested each brake line - I can get fluid to pump out of each line/fitting. Note that I do this by opening a fitting or bleed valve, then pump and hold the MC once, then close the fitting or bleed valve before releasing the handle. I know this isn't how you're suppose to bleed, this was just a test.

I'm certain there is no air in the system up to the slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the two front slave cylinders. I don't think there is air in the rear slave cylinder but since I did not rebuild that one I'm not as confident. There has to be air somewhere so I'm most suspicious of the rear slave cylinder.

There are no fluid leaks out, so I assume that means there should not be any air leaks in either.

When I pump the MC 3 times and hold, I can get a slight dribble to come out of the slave cylinder bleed screws, but It won't "squirt" out as I'm accustomed to seeing.

The MC will engage the brakes, but not with solid pressure, and the handle travels to the fixed stop. In other words, pressure in the system won't stop it before its end of travel.

I don't know what else to do. I'm at a loss to figure out where there could be air in the system and why it won't purge out.

Any thoughts?

My 2009 Outlander 650 Max XT was in need of new boots. I opted for new axles so I would not go through the work and have bad CV joints still. So I pulled the wheel off, got the shock loose, and proceeded to try to remove the trailing arm. It will not budge! I took the retaining nut off and the washer under it. In the videos they show the next piece just sliding right out. I wiggled it, tugged on it, pulled up on the trailing arm, pushed down on the arm, put a gear puller on the piece, and it will not move. As clean as it is inside I would not think it is rusted in place. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I might need to go have an adult beverage and try again tomorrow!!

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Just had a quick question. I assume i have to empty the coolant but then, when installing the new thermal sensor, do I just remove the old and screw the new one in or, do I use something on the threads of the sensor?

Hey folks, new guy here. Here we go , I got a 96 Polaris 500 sportsman been a project for a while now, so far new cam (H.O.) & rockers, timing chain, coil, plug wire, fuel pump, piston &rings, primary clutch, belt . Timing is dead nuts, gaps are right .006 . Cleaned and rebuilt carb. Air fuel mixture screw, 2 turns out ,1 1/2 turns out all the same, quad still has no power... Can I go to a 40mm carb, and if I do, do I need to change exhaust? Also going to change secondary clutch seams to be making noise , gone this far why not. Am I chasing a unicorn here , will this ever have any real power? If so , how do I achieve it? :thinking: Also new air box and lid ,

Has anyone installed the lower door kits themselves on an ACE that came with the 1/4 doors from the factory?

I ordered my kit after having the ACE for a couple weeks. I went to install it this past weekend and was very confused and a little disappointed. I did the work over at my neighbors garage because it's heated and also because he is an excellent mechanic as well as having been an Auto Body technician for going on 30 years.

First off, the directions from Polaris are terrible.

Once I got the upper door skin off and the frame of the lower door attached to the upper door frame, I mounted the lower door skin with the 3 screws. It was immediately apparent that the upper door had to be adjusted for the lower door skin to fit into the "opening". We adjusted both the hinges of the upper door and the strike mounting block that is attached to the front roll bar. Once we got a somewhat OK fit for the lower door skin and tightened the hinges and strike we went to check opening and closing. To our surprise, the door would not open because of the plastic at the upper rear part of the lower skin was interfering with the frame that holds the upper door. We tried adjusting the door as much as we could until all those crummy torx screws were almost stripped. Finally we came to the conclusion the only way to get the door to open all the way was to cut the corner out of the lower door skin. Here is pictures of what I'm talking about:

Left door:


Right door:


One final thing is that most of the lower door seals up OK to the body, but the back portion still has big gaps.

Right door:


Left door:


I am just wondering if at some point they changed the bodywork and or mounts but never got around to changing the lower door skins? I'd be interested to know if the older ACE's have lower doors that fit properly.

Thanks for taking the time to read all this.

Hey guys
I know there is alot on this topic but not exactly what I'm dealing with. My awd is stuck on in high and low weather it's switch from 2x4 or 4x4. When I put it in reverse and push the override button the indicator lights up and says slow but only the back wheels turn. I just picked up the quad and havn't looked into it much yet just wondering if anyone had 's similar problem thanks.

Hey guys
I know there is alot on this topic but not exactly what I'm dealing with. My awd is stuck on in high and low weather it's switch from 2x4 or 4x4. When I put it in reverse and push the override button the indicator lights up and says slow but only the back wheels turn. I just picked up the quad and havn't looked into it much yet just wondering if anyone had 's similar problem thanks.

2003 Polaris Sportsman 700 twin - I use this machine exclusively in the winter to push snow. Recently it's been losing power and dying at idle. However, now it won't start and when I turn it over, it will cycle a few times, then clunk and seems to jam. I've replaced battery, solenoid and starter with no improvement. When I opened the air filter box, I found quite a bit of liquid - assuming mostly gas from the carburetor. Probably have a clogged seat and will clean that, but not sure that would cause the new starter to jam like that. I read somewhere that the exhaust has a valve that might be stuck backing up, causing too much back pressure? Any thoughts/help would be great!