Hello! Sooo i have an 07 trail boss 330 and last night i went out to start it.. Started right up no problem.. But right after starting the temp light came on. It was like 30 degrees out and still super cold. Rode it around the yard. Runs perfect. This machine looks like new and has barely been ridden. Turn off ignition and take the key out and the fan stays running.. The only way to turn the fan off is to disconnect the battery. Which i did and put a fully charged one on it. As soon as i touch the ground to the battery the fan starts running. Keys not even in the ignition of the atv. From what I'm reading it could be the ecm... Or the thermistor... Or the temp sensor? I don't wanna start blindly throwing money at it to fix it. Any guidance on how i can determine the exact problem it has going on?
2007 polaris trail boss 330 temp light and fan
Hello! Sooo i have an 07 trail boss 330 and last night i went out to start it.. Started right up no problem.. But right after starting the temp light came on. It was like 30 degrees out and still super cold. Rode it around the yard. Runs perfect. This machine looks like new and has barely been ridden. Turn off ignition and take the key out and the fan stays running.. The only way to turn the fan off is to disconnect the battery. Which i did and put a fully charged one on it. As soon as i touch the ground to the battery the fan starts running. Keys not even in the ignition of the atv. From what I'm reading it could be the ecm... Or the thermistor... Or the temp sensor? I don't wanna start blindly throwing money at it to fix it. Any guidance on how i can determine the exact problem it has going on?
Rear Tail/Brake Light Not Working
Hi all:
I bought a nice clean original tail light off ebay for my '2001' DS650, installed it after removing the LED junk set-up someone installed that had broken wires. I rewired, installed a new three wire connector, and bolted it up and it worked great! Just like new! I also installed a new rear pressure brake switch, bled my brakes and everything worked great, brake and tail.... Every time I get on it I test the lights before riding down the road and back. I then did the Motion Pro twist throttle conversion( and I love it!) and after installing the new grips I moved the controls where they belong near the grips.
On the left, I had about a 3" gap between the light switch and grip and found the control loose when tightened down after I moved it (on the Pro Taper bars in which they had the light switch mounted on the curved area). I then used electrical tape to wrap around the bar before sliding the control over it and tightening it down snug and it worked great. A friend came over and I showed him my new tail light and went to turn it on and got nothing, no light no brake light, just headlight. I know it worked after my throttle conversion because I tested it every time I rode it. Now it's like it has no power at all. I unplugged and tested the connection and get nothing on either pole. I checked the 15amp fuse and it's fine. I know the 25amp (main)starter fuse is fine because the engine turns over after I recently replaced it. The light switch has to be fine because the LED headlight comes on on high and low settings and therefore has to be sending power straight back to the tail light.
And that's another thing I don't like. They wired the new LED 12" headlight bar with the GREEN(low beam) and BLUE(high beam) wires together and crimped the red wire from the LED light to them. Is this ok, green and blue together? Won't it 'back-feed' some how? I guess they wanted to make sure the light would stay on no matter what position the switch was switched onto, low or high when their kid turned on the lights. I want to change that back to original and am looking for an original headlight so I can use high and low beam or the 2003 headlight and mod kit I've seen. But what about the way they wired both together now?
I just don't understand my tail light losing power like that. I'm sure the switch don't have to be grounded as it worked before and after the tape wrap fitting. Any ideas?? The wiring diagram shows little fault can go wrong if your switch turns on your headlight. I know my electrical connection skill are A+.
And I bought this clean quad under the ad stating 2001 DS650 but the sticker says 7/2000. Is this
really a 2000 DS650?? I've been ordering parts all this time for a 2001 DS650 and so far so good. And I know there's hardly a difference between the two but they should have installed reverse on these monsters LOL.
Thanks for your time, Scott
I bought a nice clean original tail light off ebay for my '2001' DS650, installed it after removing the LED junk set-up someone installed that had broken wires. I rewired, installed a new three wire connector, and bolted it up and it worked great! Just like new! I also installed a new rear pressure brake switch, bled my brakes and everything worked great, brake and tail.... Every time I get on it I test the lights before riding down the road and back. I then did the Motion Pro twist throttle conversion( and I love it!) and after installing the new grips I moved the controls where they belong near the grips.
On the left, I had about a 3" gap between the light switch and grip and found the control loose when tightened down after I moved it (on the Pro Taper bars in which they had the light switch mounted on the curved area). I then used electrical tape to wrap around the bar before sliding the control over it and tightening it down snug and it worked great. A friend came over and I showed him my new tail light and went to turn it on and got nothing, no light no brake light, just headlight. I know it worked after my throttle conversion because I tested it every time I rode it. Now it's like it has no power at all. I unplugged and tested the connection and get nothing on either pole. I checked the 15amp fuse and it's fine. I know the 25amp (main)starter fuse is fine because the engine turns over after I recently replaced it. The light switch has to be fine because the LED headlight comes on on high and low settings and therefore has to be sending power straight back to the tail light.
And that's another thing I don't like. They wired the new LED 12" headlight bar with the GREEN(low beam) and BLUE(high beam) wires together and crimped the red wire from the LED light to them. Is this ok, green and blue together? Won't it 'back-feed' some how? I guess they wanted to make sure the light would stay on no matter what position the switch was switched onto, low or high when their kid turned on the lights. I want to change that back to original and am looking for an original headlight so I can use high and low beam or the 2003 headlight and mod kit I've seen. But what about the way they wired both together now?
I just don't understand my tail light losing power like that. I'm sure the switch don't have to be grounded as it worked before and after the tape wrap fitting. Any ideas?? The wiring diagram shows little fault can go wrong if your switch turns on your headlight. I know my electrical connection skill are A+.
And I bought this clean quad under the ad stating 2001 DS650 but the sticker says 7/2000. Is this
really a 2000 DS650?? I've been ordering parts all this time for a 2001 DS650 and so far so good. And I know there's hardly a difference between the two but they should have installed reverse on these monsters LOL.
Thanks for your time, Scott
How do you prefer to manage the upper steering bush greasing?
I disassembles the lower one to clean and lube because it's a reasonable job.
The upper one requires too much disassembly to be reasonable, plus it's not really exposed to much water anyway.
I was planning to just get a grease needle and insert it through the top oring to grease the bushing without disassembly. Possibly required every few years only anyway for the top one.
Some people just let gear oil or penetrating oil "run down" the shaft, but that looks like a messy and less efficient solution.
Because the top bush is before the P/S, greasing it will definitely make a difference compared to the lower bush.
Anyone tried the grease needle? Will test and report.
My bushing is stuck on the shaft, it's actually the plastic insert that rotates into the metal clamp instead of the shaft rotating inside the bush...
The upper one requires too much disassembly to be reasonable, plus it's not really exposed to much water anyway.
I was planning to just get a grease needle and insert it through the top oring to grease the bushing without disassembly. Possibly required every few years only anyway for the top one.
Some people just let gear oil or penetrating oil "run down" the shaft, but that looks like a messy and less efficient solution.
Because the top bush is before the P/S, greasing it will definitely make a difference compared to the lower bush.
Anyone tried the grease needle? Will test and report.
My bushing is stuck on the shaft, it's actually the plastic insert that rotates into the metal clamp instead of the shaft rotating inside the bush...
96 sportsman 400 top end question
I have a 96 Sportsman 400. the compression after warm up is 100 psi. I have looked at cylinders with a bore scope and cylinder walls look good. Would I be able to pull head and hone the cylinder and replace with standard ring ? If so would this make a big difference in compression ?. I read in service manual that 115 psi is minimum service point. What would be psi on on a fresh motor ? It was given to me by my neighbor. It belonged to his mother LOL. She passed away. It was not running and set for several years. After a few days of tinkering I got it running.It had some electrical problems I believe with the rev limiter and corrosion on various switches. Rebuilt carb and waiting on new tank valve. Over all it is in good condition. Thanks for any advise.
Pitbull BG 2.5 size
How are you liking the pitbulls?
Im curious if anyone has ever tape measured them when mounted on rim but wheel not on atv.
I had the older 25.5s and loved them.
Got the 26.5s and they weigh alot more plus lost torque and turning.
Now im deciding between the 25 and 26 bg 2.5s.
Curious if the new ones are exactly true to size.
Also the bg 2.5s are rounded now instead of flat. I really liked the flat wheels. Seems to me like you would get less traction with a rounded tire due to the contact area
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Im curious if anyone has ever tape measured them when mounted on rim but wheel not on atv.
I had the older 25.5s and loved them.
Got the 26.5s and they weigh alot more plus lost torque and turning.
Now im deciding between the 25 and 26 bg 2.5s.
Curious if the new ones are exactly true to size.
Also the bg 2.5s are rounded now instead of flat. I really liked the flat wheels. Seems to me like you would get less traction with a rounded tire due to the contact area
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Upgraded light bulb question for you electrical gurus
The high powered bulbs in the link below were mentioned in another thread and got my interest. These are listed as 90w and the OP in that thread says they are really bright as compared to OEM. The same seller also advertises 100w, 150w and higher output bulbs.
My questions for you electrical guys and those actually running them are:
How hot will they run?
What kind of load will they put on the wiring, switches and charging system during extended operation?
Is there any danger of excess heat and amp load doing damage or causing other electrical problems and/or deforming the housings and lenses?
The OEM lights on my new 1k are just fine but if these bulbs at this price are significantly brighter without any foreseeable downside I may give them a try.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPO...K/202174180823
My questions for you electrical guys and those actually running them are:
How hot will they run?
What kind of load will they put on the wiring, switches and charging system during extended operation?
Is there any danger of excess heat and amp load doing damage or causing other electrical problems and/or deforming the housings and lenses?
The OEM lights on my new 1k are just fine but if these bulbs at this price are significantly brighter without any foreseeable downside I may give them a try.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPO...K/202174180823
1999 Sportsman 335
I overheated an fried my relay controller. I have not been able to find the part. It is part # 4010164. Polaris has discontinued the part. Any ideas? Can you jump the relay and put a fan switch on? Any ideas on finding the relay?
Constant Wheel Hop
Constant wheel hop
Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.
The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.
The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.
After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.
I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.
Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction? Posted this under 2ritelobe2 but didn't think there would be any interest if the problem wasn't listed
RitelobeConstant wheel hop
Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.
The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.
The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.
After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.
I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.
Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction? Posted this under 2ritelobe2 but didn't think there would be any interest if the problem wasn't listed
RitelobeConstant wheel hop
2ritelobe2
Running out of ideas. Need suggestions please! 1997 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO (found out when purchasing the wrong axles). Blade is up front to move snow.
The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.
The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.
After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.
I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.
Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction?
Ritelobe
The Polaris rides like it has an oblong tire in the front. Checked everything from the outside wheel cover to the differential. Wheel bearings were good, only 3 tires rotated and the armature did not fix to the magnetic plate when 4 wheel drive was engaged. The axle to the CV joint was rotating, it appeared normally. Adjusted the bearing seal between the outer magnet and the inner coil housing to .0025, or at least had enough gap to have the magnet freeze the armature in place so all tires were turning when 4 wheel drive was engaged.
The Hillard Clutch's were good, strut bearings were good. Hubs were straight, replaced brake pads and loosened gap to allow less rotor drag. Bought new tires in case there was a belt malfunction but the nubs were all pretty uniform and the wheels prior to putting on new tires ran straight indicating the rims weren't bent, (another way to describe the ride is an oblong hop like a bent rim would ride). The hop is constant.
After fixing Hillard clutch, reassembled front drive leaving the wheels off and watched the hubs in 4WD. The front left was all over the place. I determined that since the axle was functioning properly and appeared straight to the CV joint, that all the irregularity had to be coming from the CV joint so I ordered new axles. Ended up getting axles for non HO Sportsman which were fatter and the strut bearings didn't fit but clutch and wheel bearings fit, may have been a little longer treads on the end which may not have sealed the front hub fluid very well. Anyway, took the L axle apart to see if the CV joint was malfunctioning but, took it apart, cleaned it and used CV grease to repack it, reassembled the axles as both the u joints and CV joints were fine, switched sides (L to R, R to L) on reassembly.
I moved snow with it hobbling all last winter, with no indication of wear on front drive train, (good bearings, clutch, hubs, rotors, brakes, proper 4WD Functioning), original axles were used in reassembly. Will be moving snow with the 500 riding with a malfunction somewhere. Hard to believe it hasn't appeared to be stressing the moving parts of the front drive.
Anyone have similar malfunction that could help me to look in the right direction?
Ritelobe