Pro Armor

Anyone have any experience with Pro Armor wheels and/or tires? I’ve asked a few questions about sizing and I like the size that come factory on the SP models of the sportsman. These are 26/9-14 and 26/11-14 on a 14x6 front and 14x8 rear. What do you guys think, worth getting?

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Pro Armor

Anyone have any experience with Pro Armor wheels and/or tires? I’ve asked a few questions about sizing and I like the size that come factory on the SP models of the sportsman. These are 26/9-14 and 26/11-14 on a 14x6 front and 14x8 rear. What do you guys think, worth getting?

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	5D732698-8ADA-46DB-B1EA-31621D1D6916_1557714165648.jpeg
Views:	N/A
Size:	172.8 KB
ID:	117855   Click image for larger version

Name:	FAC2BC08-D75E-4B74-BD92-2CE6D457657E_1557714176476.jpeg
Views:	N/A
Size:	74.3 KB
ID:	117857   Click image for larger version

Name:	1FB93C36-46E3-4822-B527-CE561053CBAA_1557714183628.jpeg
Views:	N/A
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	117859   Click image for larger version

Name:	D12AE34B-3EEC-433C-8695-F17AC689F9F0_1557714199146.jpeg
Views:	N/A
Size:	51.9 KB
ID:	117861  

1996 scrambler 400 air box

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Sportsman 570 dead – no power to anything!

I have a 2016 Sportsman 570, bought it new, working perfectly. I hooked up (alligator clips) a new sprayer and turned the pump on. When I turned it on I heard a pop. Turned the key and nothing. No lights, no guages, no fuel pump whine, nada. All fuses are good, all relays are good. I put a charger on the battery just to make sure it didn't somehow zap all the power? Now I am at a loss. I heard a distinct pop but don't know where it came from. Will the ECU pop?
I am not good with an ohm meter, and don't understand how the pump from the sprayer would have caused the issue, but it's dead. The sprayer works fine - I rigged a battery to another 570 (standalone battery, not connected to anything else) and sprayed the yard, so I don't think it has anything to do with the sprayer.

Help. Please. Thanks!

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Hey new guy here. Where the shifter linkage on my 2010 goes into the "gear box" I found a hole that looks like it was torn through from the inside. Any idea what may have done this? I will send a pic when i figure out how to...
I'm a builder not a mechanic. And I dont mind sarcasm or criticism.

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Hi all! I am looking to hopefully learn a little more about the primary clutch on my sportsman 500. It has the one way bearing with the grooves in it. Being a snowmobilier i know the belt is supposed to be in the middle of the primary. However this is not possible for me. The belt either sits in the grooves and touches the inner sheave or the outer. No middle. If it touches the inner itll creep. So I shim it and pull the motor mount out and it rides the outside sheave and doesnt creep. BUT When the outer sheave moves to engage the belt it moves the belt to the inner sheave. Is the belt supposed to jump the groves back to the outside everytime I let off the throttle? Doesnt seem right? If the clutches are straight it wont pull over to the outer like it should. I had to pull the motor way over and put 4 shims behind the secondary to get the belt to jump the groves back to the outer sheave to stop it from creeping. My primary is in good shape but the one way bearing might be a little stiff (even after greasing) I might need to replace it but it does still move. Long story short Im wondering why the belt doesnt sit in the middle? And is it supposed to jump the grooves to get back to the outside? This just doesnt seem right.

Hopefully this made sense to someone! Thanks guys!!:grin

95 Big Boss 6×6 rear axle

HI there,

I have a quick question. I've changed my final drive rear axle bearing the other day on my 1995 Big Boss 6x6 (Same set-up as a Magnum 425 for example) with brand new bearings. the torque spec for the nut and lock nut are indicated at 150ft-pd in the manual. But after tightening the first nut not completely to torque spec. I can barely rotate the carrier around the axle. Is this normal ? I've removed the seals that came with the bearing kit and lubricated the balls as well as the inside of the carrier but still stiff to rotate. Is this going to get easier once driving on the ATV ?

2019 Ranger 570 EPS Fuel Sending Unit

I'm am new to posting on forums so please forgive any ediquet issues.

I have a 2019 Polaris Ranger 570 EPS 2 seat model. The fuel gauge is off by 5 gallons or about 50%. It is still sitting at the dealer.(3 weeks now) The dealer has followed the Polaris script and replaced the fuel pump which includes the fuel sending unit. That did not correct the problem. The dealer also tested the new and old sending unit. It test with the manufactures specified ohms at the unit and at the Gauge or head unit. They also tested several other new machines on the lot. The other machines also tested the same. They checked the fuel volume and determined that the Gauge flashes empty when there is 4.2 gallons of fuel remaining on these other machines. Mine is closer to 5 gallons remaining.

I have spoke with a Polaris customer service rep. She said the Polaris Techs say that is normal and Polaris isn't going to do anything else. I got heated and told her it is a manufacture defect. I think a Polaris engineer should reflash the computer to account for the ohms or use a different sending unit. After some convincing she agreed to have a tech look at the issue again, but haven't heard anything since.

I have never had a fuel gauge off that far on any Polaris machines. Nor are they off that far any friends machines. Any one else have this issue?

I think it is a safety defect. I ride in the middle of north central Idaho where there is rarely another person. A untrustworthy fuel gauge is more than an inconvienance. When the snow hits in the high country you burn a lot of fuel trying to get home.

If Polaris won't fix the problem anyone now how to reprogram the computer to fix it?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Howdy all,
I recently bought a 2005 600 Twin for checking cows. It runs beautifully, never having any issues. Yesterday, it randomly died. The screen is blank and and there is no clicking from the starter solenoid. All 3 front lights turn on with the key in the ON position, but no taillights or work lights. The winch runs just fine. It appears all the electrical connections are tight. It had this issue week ago. I waited a few minutes and everything worked again. I’ve done some research, but haven’t found much (just could be not searching with the right words). Is it something with the kill switch or a loose wire in the harness? I don’t know where to begin with this. Any help is greatly appreciated!