Category: Forum News

I recently ordered a couple hydraulic brake calipers specified for a 98-02 Sportsman. These are for a project (not Polaris) that I am working on, and ordered them based on adaptability. My question is what is the purpose of the two hydraulic lines to each caliper. It appears that each one supplies both sides of the caliper, yet one is slightly smaller than the other. Each one appears to have its own bleed as well.

Thanks.

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum.



I own a 2019 Outlander MAX DPS 570 which I imported to Ecuador, my native country.



I usually go riding with my wife on dirt trails and rocky trails and the average speed we go is about 30MPH.


We like cruising and taking in the nature and even though it's not a deal breaker, the suspension seems a little harsh especially on bumps and potholes.



I moved the suspension setting one place to release a little tension. I am a total noob at this and have no idea of what I'm doing.


Is someone in a similar spot to mine and they just like riding nicely with their wife and have a smooth ride?


Any help would be appreciated!


Thanks in advance and sorry if my English is a little rusty as it is my second language. (attaching some pics for reference with the wife.)

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I have an 05 Sportsman 90 with a non removable float valve seat in the carb. All the parts look ups show a removable seat with a little clamp and screw holding it in. Anybody know the Polaris part number for the float valve for the non removable seat. They were made by Eton back then so even the Eton number would help.

Hi, I'm new to the forums. I have a 2003 Outlander 400 that was given to me. I had to replace all of the fuel lines as it had been sitting for many years I also cleaned the fuel tank and I cleaned the carb many times and I put a brand new side diagram. The intake boot looks good and I think the fuel pump is good bc it idles and runs good to about 1/2 throttle and then sputters. Its got a brand new air filter too. I can't figure it out. I'm pretty sure it is running lean bc if you give it a little choke it smooths out, and the plug is dry. But all the jets are clean. And the needle moves up and down as it is supposed too.

I have had a bunch of can am atvs 650 Outlander xt I had some problems with them. I went to Sxs and never went back to atvs. I have owned tons of different utvs. Last year I bought a defender hd10 cab. I was excited about the purchase at first. I'm an outfitter guide in Utah. So I use it lots. I don't race it or go fast I just simply use it. In one year I have had nothing but issues. I have put a new clutch in it had the motor rebuild all new wiring harnesses plus tons of other problems. Them are just some of the bigger problems. The motor is acting the same way it did before I took it in, when they rebuilt the motor. Ive put 300 miles on the rebuilt motor. I paid roughly 25k for it. Ive put 6k into it in one year, and was without the machine 3 months in 1 year. Now the motor is going to have to be rebuilt again. I have to say worst purchase I've ever made. I put my trust in can am purchased their product and it's been a nightmare. I have talked to can am they will do nothing! I blame it on air intake and clutch intake. Just look at the placement of both of these. I hope I don't get banned for writing the truth.

Hi y'all.

Looking for some guidance on my 2015 XP. I had noticed a slight left lean in the rear when wrenching on other parts this past month or so, didn't think anything of it and chalked it up to my concrete slab section running that way toward my center garage drain.

Well this was not the case and also having issues driving 20-50 mph on pavement, haven't gone over 50 due to this) where the handle bars shake left to right, not sure if shimmy was speed sensitive as it was short bursts of pavement separated by grass/dirt trails. It's controllable but you definitely cannot do a high speed run or anything. I thought maybe it's an unbalanced wheel but recently have seen people with bent sway bars reporting my two issues...

I plan on pulling my sway bar this week and seeing if it lays flat, if not they seem cheap enough on ebay it's a non issue. Just want to sort out the wobble.

Previous owner did roll it over and cracked the plastic rack but it was a tip over 0 mph incident. I also will check suspension and double check tire size as obvious ones. Threading was the same each shock but the sleeves cover up some details. Wheels seem to true with no bent rims, but I will be doing a clutch so all 4 wheels will be off the ground and can confirm.

Thanks in advance!:grin

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Hi y'all.

Looking for some guidance on my 2015 XP. I had noticed a slight left lean in the rear when wrenching on other parts this past month or so, didn't think anything of it and chalked it up to my concrete slab section running that way toward my center garage drain.

Well this was not the case and also having issues driving 20-50 mph on pavement, haven't gone over 50 due to this) where the handle bars shake left to right, not sure if shimmy was speed sensitive as it was short bursts of pavement separated by grass/dirt trails. It's controllable but you definitely cannot do a high speed run or anything. I thought maybe it's an unbalanced wheel but recently have seen people with bent sway bars reporting my two issues...

I plan on pulling my sway bar this week and seeing if it lays flat, if not they seem cheap enough on ebay it's a non issue. Just want to sort out the wobble.

Previous owner did roll it over and cracked the plastic rack but it was a tip over 0 mph incident. I also will check suspension and double check tire size as obvious ones. Threading was the same each shock but the sleeves cover up some details. Wheels seem to true with no bent rims, but I will be doing a clutch so all 4 wheels will be off the ground and can confirm.

Thanks in advance!:grin

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Looking to snorkel my 2004 700 efi, anyone have any experience with these kits? They seem to be the only ones to offer a kit for this year, unless if anyone knows how hard it would be to make a kit for a 05 work?

Hi

New to the Forum. Just purchased a Defender 10 Max couple months ago.. Riding at night and getting back to the House one night I notice the Exhaust was red. Read a couple other post on here saying Lean because of Emissions???. The dealership looked at the machine and said it checks to spec... Will a less restrictive muffler help ? or a different ecu fuel tune? Wondering if it will survive and not burn a hole in the piston or burn an exhaust valve is my real concern on an expensive machine. 30+hours and 300 miles or so far. Seems to Run strong though. Thanks !

Trying to revive and Old Mule that's been sitting in a barn untouched for years. Have been through a bunch of stuff, but am stuck on a couple of things.

This is a Polaris Sportsman 500 with a build date of 7-1997 I can provide some additional information if needed. I've tried to open some of the Service Manual links in other threads, but none seem to work.

So far:

Cleaned out stale fuel, unclogged carb, etc. It runs smooth for the most part but backfires quite a bit on reducing throttle.

Had to replace the rodent destroyed clutch/drive belt. Clutch was also frozen to the shaft and would not move, but some PB Blaster and gentle persuasion got the resolved. From that point, we had trouble getting into gear with stalling, but we're now able to do so.

Major issue at the moment:

It will run and drive for 30 minutes or so, then it goes into overheat, red light comes on. That's where it gets interesting. You lose ability to shift gears and cannot steer. Everything seems to lock up, both front and rear. Attempting to drive forward and steer, it pushes the front wheels sideways so you keep going straight and cannot turn. You also can't change gears, or get into neutral to push it.


After it cools for 15 minutes or so, everything works fine again, until it heats up again.

So, WHAT is overheating? And how do I try to resolve it? Are we looking at a transmission fluid issue? I though the red light was engine temperature only. And there IS an issue there since coolant is being pushed out of the overflow bottle onto the ground.

We have other issues that are more minor which I'll go into in the next post, but this overheat problem may make it not worth pursuing if we can't get it resolved. It may just go back in the barn to rot again.

Help me not allow that to happen. Otherwise it in great condition with only 400 miles on the clock.