Jerky Belt / Clutch

Hi Everyone: I thoroughly enjoy my '17 Outlander Max Ltd. It is the only ATV I've ever owned. I'm a rookie that started big.

I have a question. My machine is quite jerky when trying to get it moving. It is a bear to position the thing in the garage, or back into my trailer, or drive up the ramps to my trailer. I feel like a teenager learning to drive a manual transmission. I've come to applying brake pressure to control the jerks. In my old hydrostatic transmission days, we made a thing called an "inching valve" or a thing called an "acceleration valve" that allowed the machine to start smooth and move slowly so you could put it away in the shed without hitting the building.

I thought it was a new grabby belt. 40 hours later I'm wondering if the clutch engages too fast or something. Last week we were loading my friends Arctic Cat 700 TUV and his machine was smooth as butter.

I wonder if other big bore Outlander owners have experienced jerky operation and if they had a remedy for it; like belt, clutch adjustment, pulley surface finish, or clutch parts.

David

Carb Problems

Has anyone tried a different carb configuration on a Polaris 500 4 stroke,,Thinking of a 475 Carb swap on my Big Boss 6x6 500

2014 renegade 500 noise?

Hello i recently purchased a used 2014 renegade 500, all in all it was in really good shape and regularly maintained. My only concern is that when im riding if i let off the throttle and then get back on it i hear an audible "click" coming from the cvt. I dont know if this is normal or not so i figured i would ask.

Jon

Chattering Noise from Transmission

I just purchased a 16' Sportsman 570 with about 700 miles on it. Runs and drives fine, but I noticed that there seems to be a chattering sound coming from the transmission. Notice it the most when braking and when it's just being moved in neutral. I have heard the Polaris's seems to have noisey drive trains in general, I'm just not sure if this is normal. I could post a video of it jacked up and spinning the wheels if need be. Thanks.

Question on Clutch Kit Shims?

I just received a clutch kit from RVS for a 2016 Sportsman 570 SP EPS and I had a question on the shims. There is a package with 2 spring engagement adjustment shims to raise the rpm engagement that go on the primary.

Normally when you shim a primary clutch it allows the belt to drop down further in the sheaves which gives you lower rpm engagement and more torque. But these shims are to raise the rpm engagement, am I missing something here? I have installed a lot of Heelclicker clutch kit years ago on many sportsmans and never had shims for the primary.

I just want low rpm engagement so I take it I would just not install the shims?

Thanks for any advice.

Clutch Maintenance

Hello team - I hit a big log in a water hole that stopped me dead and bent up a tie rod. On the way home, bent the other one! No biggie, will bend them back to straight. Also tore the CV boot. So that will also get replaced. But while its all apart I should do some clutch work. Bone stock 2013 Outlander 650XT. 1500 miles. I removed the CVT cover. Everything is still very clean and belt looks good. Need to remove primary to get to one-way bearing. I'm familiar with snowmobile clutches but not ATV clutchs. They must be very similiar. What tools do I need to get the primary first sheave off? Can the clutch be split on the machine? On sled the entire primary came off as 1 unit and then was split. I have a clutch puller for a sled, worked on my ski doo. Will it work for this? Not sure if they are all the same. What tools do I need to do this job correctly? Any recommended sites to get them? I do have the service manual but thought I'd ask here first.

Should I get a new one-way bearing or just clean up and regrease. This atv plows my driveway, pulls a garden wagon and goes on the occasional trail ride. Its not abused or overworked!

Thanks!

Mrrpm vs Griffin performance

Title says it all. Looking to upgrade my 09 renegade 800 with one brand or the other. 975mrrpm bbk or griffin 980bbk. With there race heads or maverick heads. Stage2 or 3 cams. Looking for around 80rwhp on 93 pump gas. Got full clutches. Qsc stm combo. With full ron woods exhaust. Speaking outs load at the moment but this is the route I’m thinking about going. Not going to be a mud bike more like a gncc racer. Won’t be a sleeper with the cams I understand but tell me any info you have with something like this. Forged pistons would be a must because of the possibility of running boss nos shot of around 20-30hp for the scramble button. Figured 12.5 compression to be ideal. Anyone?

1998 Polaris 500 spark issues

Hi, my friend has a 1998 Polaris sportsman 500 that has had problems since he got it. I am the one who works on it. It ran fine for one ride but has problems since then. When I washed it after that first ride, it would not crank back up. It had very little to no spark. So, I replaced the stator and trigger coil along with wires (caltric) and it now has spark. It would run for about 20 minutes then foul the plug. So I adjusted the needle and it ran for longer then fouled the plug. (This is all at an idle no throttle) it obviously was having a spark issue. I re cut the spark plug wire to have new wire in the boot. I have been using a brand new plug and cleaning it when it fouls. I have tried adjusting the idle air screw. Unplugged and cleaned cdi to coil plug. The spark plug only gets a yellow to white spark. But the bare coil wire has a bright blue spark that can jump a half inch. I eliminated the boot as a problem by taping the wire directly to plug but it still gives a weak spark. This is all done with the correct plug (BKR5E). I have the trigger coil set as close as I can. Please help.