Category: Forum News

Shop manual really isn’t the greatest IMO.
I am counting 15.

Anyone confirm?
Shaft, upper fronts and rear carriers are a b—— especially with iron Baltic skids. Guess at ten hours I shouldn’t worry so much.

25 I’m pulling it all apart!

Hi,

Last year my son received a 98 Xpress 300 as a gift from his uncle. It worked fine, except the starter didn't work and it grinds in reverse. Reverse isn't important, but he purchased a starter and we just finished putting it in. We had a lot of trouble getting the secondary clutch off (I bought pullers for both clutches) but it finally popped off after shortening the puller and filling the hole with grease. It was tight enough that the puller actually flattened a bit on the end of the spindle. In an effort to get the puller out, we actually took the clutch apart to potentially heat the shaft, but ended up getting it out with a BIG impact gun. We put the secondary back together on the 2-1 setting and put it all back together. Without realizing it, when we were first working to pull the secondary we had it in gear. Once we realized it we put it in neutral and blocked the secondary. It was substantially harder to get off than any clutch I've ever pulled from a snowmobile... It was my first time pulling one on an ATV.

Now the problem we have is it doesn't seem to engage in forward gear. When we put it in reverse, it stops the secondary when it engages (as I would expect) and still grinds when going backwards, though not quite as bad as before. When we put it in forward the secondary just continues to spin with virtually no resistance. I can see the primary engage and pull the belt into the secondary, but it does not seem to engage the gears. If we push the lever forward we do hear some clicking. It's almost as if it is out of alignment, but having never worked on the gearboxes I thought I'd ask for advice before I started adjusting anything.

With how hard we had to turn the puller to get the secondary off, could we have bent or caused something to be misaligned? The boy is really disappointed right now and itching to keep working on it, but I really wasn't sure where to go next. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Will

Hi,

Last year my son received a 98 Xpress 300 as a gift from his uncle. It worked fine, except the starter didn't work and it grinds in reverse. Reverse isn't important, but he purchased a starter and we just finished putting it in. We had a lot of trouble getting the secondary clutch off (I bought pullers for both clutches) but it finally popped off after shortening the puller and filling the hole with grease. It was tight enough that the puller actually flattened a bit on the end of the spindle. In an effort to get the puller out, we actually took the clutch apart to potentially heat the shaft, but ended up getting it out with a BIG impact gun. We put the secondary back together on the 2-1 setting and put it all back together. Without realizing it, when we were first working to pull the secondary we had it in gear. Once we realized it we put it in neutral and blocked the secondary. It was substantially harder to get off than any clutch I've ever pulled from a snowmobile... It was my first time pulling one on an ATV.

Now the problem we have is it doesn't seem to engage in forward gear. When we put it in reverse, it stops the secondary when it engages (as I would expect) and still grinds when going backwards, though not quite as bad as before. When we put it in forward the secondary just continues to spin with virtually no resistance. I can see the primary engage and pull the belt into the secondary, but it does not seem to engage the gears. If we push the lever forward we do hear some clicking. It's almost as if it is out of alignment, but having never worked on the gearboxes I thought I'd ask for advice before I started adjusting anything.

With how hard we had to turn the puller to get the secondary off, could we have bent or caused something to be misaligned? The boy is really disappointed right now and itching to keep working on it, but I really wasn't sure where to go next. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Will

Is there another gear case oil that I can use besides the Polaris oil that is mentioned in the manual?

Im curious has the factory ever fixed the primary clutch slip issue? I see a primary for sale labeled as OEM but it has the ring and front rivets identical to the primaries that have the locked up mod on them.


just curious! thanks!

I just purchased a new 2018 Outlander 650 Max XT. One accessory I purchased was the LinkQ 12 gallon trunk box. I am not sure if there is something wrong with me or the box. This question goes out to someone whom has recently installed. When place the trunk on the rear deck it attaches well with the LinkQ attachments. I comes with hardware that is meant to be used to help it attach to at a third point on the new model. Supposedly, your are supposed to drill two holes to help line up a metal support bar on the inside of the box with an aluminum "hook" on the outside with two screws. The outside hook engages with a third hole on the deck close to the bumper. Two problems I am concerned about: #1 is when the box is engaged with the front LinQ attachments I feel the box sits too far forward on the deck. This is for two reasons. When I open the lid, I am not able to open the lid all the way to allow the lid to stay up without me holding against the back rest on the rear seat. The second bigger concern is there is NO way that I can see lining up the exterior hook (attachment point) with the trunk box itself. The farthest back drill hole in the aluminum hook is to far back compared to the trunk which would not allow me to drill a hole to engage the bolt needed to attach the hook to the trunk. I am sure this is hard to visualize if you haven't recently installed on your own Outlander. These two concerns make me think the trunk case should be sitting about 1 inch further back on the rear deck because the lid is too close to the rear seat back rest and the trunk is too far forward to line up the bolt for the third attachment site. My question: Am I doing something wrong or is this Can Am accessory trunk not within specifications and therefore the trunk does not fit properly or proper installation? Attached our two pictures the suspected/Users/bigdog/Desktop/trunk1 misalignment.[ATTACH]Attachment 80522[/ATTACH]

Attached Files

File Type: zip	trunk3.zip (62.1 KB)
File Type: zip	trunk4.zip (56.5 KB)

I know my 26” bighorns rub on rear fender off jumps, but bighorns tend to run big.

After much research, I’ve found this is probably the best one on the market.
Axle-in and multi-port for even distribution without having to spin the tool.
Thought I’d share my findings for those in need.

Havoc Indistries
https://www.havocind.com/parts

https://www.havocind.com/product-pag...s-greaser-tool


Attachment 107545

Attached Thumbnails

 

My outlander runs like the choke is on. I have tried everything I can think of to fix this problem. I took it to a guy who is very knowledgeable about these things and he said I should try getting a new carb. Got a new one and I have the same results. Any ideas anyone?

Hey all, Have a few problems with my wheeler. First off i think the front diff is being weird. I think its in 4x4 even when the switch on the handle bar is shut off. Crack the throttle and it disengages and is fine for a bit. I have changed the fluid in it a few times now with the pure polaris oil. secondly after it sat this winter i started it the other day and it had moisture in the oil, last summer i put a new water pump and seals and such in it, could it be from there? it wasnt low on antifreeze at all. and last but not least its almost like it is trying to shift when going down the road at like 45 mph. I can hear the rpms change but thats bout it, still moves just fine, i did put a different clutch in it because of this issue. the one that you dont need a special puller to take off thanks for any and all help, Robert