Category: Forum News

For sale is a Racer Tech 2" lift kit for the RZR 570. This is brand new, decided not to use this and held onto it for too long to return. It was going to be for a 2015 model but I'm sure it will fit other years as well. It wasn't even taken out of the box, just opened it to take a look. These retail for $215 new and that is without shipping. I paid $230 for it with shipping but I will let it go for $200 shipping included. Here are some of the stock pictures from the website. Let me know if you have any questions.

Paypal preferred Family/Friends please unless you would like to add the 3% for their fee. Whichever you prefer is fine with me. Thanks for looking.

Here is the link:

https://rtproutv.com/rzr-570-2-lift-kit.html

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(2011 Sportsman 500 H.O.) So I’ve comepletly screwed up by trying a shortcut. I was replacing front axels and was having problems getting on out so I remembered that I saw a video of someone taking a bar through the front differential to knock out the other axel and it worked. But it seemed to knock out the “plugs” or aluminum caps on the end of the axel splines inside and both are stuck inside. Also experiencing fluid leak from diff axel splines so not only that but I’m believing the “caps” are holding off the cage from locking in forward. I’m now only able to lock 4wd in reverse not forward. What parts do I need? Anyone run into this problem?

OK, this is going to sound completely crazy, but I really don't know what's going on, so I'm going to ask. I bought a used '04 Sportsman 500. The rear axles were bad. The right rear axle was missing altogether - the cup was left in the trans. It drove fine though, and aside from only having one rear axle, nothing else was wrong. I got new axles and tried to get that cup out. I tried everything, and watched every youtube video out there on different ways to get it out, and as a last resort I was just going to remove the left rear axle and beat the right cup out. Well, as my luck would have it, the right axle snapped, and it's cup too is stuck in the axle. I gave up, and put everything back together and took it to the Polaris shop. They couldn't get them out either, and suggested that I just get a trans from ebay or something. My question though, is without the axle there, the left rear hub won't stay in the bearing carrier, and so when I roll the ATV, the hub comes out and the wheel falls off. It's quite annoying. The right side doesn't do this, even though there is no axle there either. What's causing this to happen? Thanks.


Edit: I know the castle (axle) nut holds everything together. My only question is why is the right side not falling apart as well? It was even driveable without the right rear axle and I had no problems. Thanks.

Recently I posted issues with an 05 Sportsman 500 HO that would not run when it got hot. Short version is the valves needed adjustment. Didn't have the right tool so I took it to the dealer. Came back running like new and they even adjusted the shifter. I only use the 500 at my farm 1-2 days a month. Probably have 10-15 hours on the engine since the adjustment. This past weekend I spent 3-4 hours running the engine hard pulling a 4' Plotmaster putting in food plots. Worked great all day Saturday. Sunday it was a little hard to start and as it warmed up it would not idle eventually requiring 1500rpm+ to keep it running. Ran great at high RPM's but extremely hard to start- turned over like it was flooded (smelled raw fuel), backfired, and after 5-6 attempts would catch and I'd keep the throttle up high to keep it running. Sometimes putting into gear would cause it to stall and the process would start all over. When I had the last issues, I replaced the fuel filter with a larger, see through model. Don't believe I've got a plugged filter- it would die at higher speed. I also replaced the carb before the feedback told me it was valves. It could be dirt holding the float open and flooding the carb. Anyone got any ideas before I tear into this in the next day or so?

Recently I posted issues with an 05 Sportsman 500 HO that would not run when it got hot. Short version is the valves needed adjustment. Didn't have the right tool so I took it to the dealer. Came back running like new and they even adjusted the shifter. I only use the 500 at my farm 1-2 days a month. Probably have 10-15 hours on the engine since the adjustment. This past weekend I spent 3-4 hours running the engine hard pulling a 4' Plotmaster putting in food plots. Worked great all day Saturday. Sunday it was a little hard to start and as it warmed up it would not idle eventually requiring 1500rpm+ to keep it running. Ran great at high RPM's but extremely hard to start- turned over like it was flooded (smelled raw fuel), backfired, and after 5-6 attempts would catch and I'd keep the throttle up high to keep it running. Sometimes putting into gear would cause it to stall and the process would start all over. When I had the last issues, I replaced the fuel filter with a larger, see through model. Don't believe I've got a plugged filter- it would die at higher speed. I also replaced the carb before the feedback told me it was valves. It could be dirt holding the float open and flooding the carb. Anyone got any ideas before I tear into this in the next day or so?

Hi all. I am new on here and am having troubles. When the machine is on and i try to shift out of drive or reverse it gets stuck but if i power it off than it will shift no problem. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix this please? Thanks.

Can anyone link me to a video online service manual for a 2001 sportsman 90? Thanks

Hi Everyone.

I have been looking on this site for the answer to my issue but can't find it.

I have two 2009 Sportsman 400. they are the exact same ATV, so I have been trying to trouble shoot with no luck ( one running, the other isn't)

Both were running up until recently.

a month ago, I notice that if I turned on my head lights, the ATV would shut off. it would also turn off my gauges on the dash. I had a light bar on a toggle switch that I could use, but the factory headlights would tun this machine off.

I didn't have any time to look into it.

The other day, I got onto this ATV, Started it and put it in drive and it stalled. it would not start back up again.

I checked for spark and it has spark. I sprayed quick start down the carb and it Didnt start. didn't even hick up or anything.

Because I have a second one that is in 100% working condition, I have been swapping parts and trying to troubleshoot my other one.

I swapped the coil and speak plug wire ( had spark, would not fire)
I swapped the spark plug as well ( Had spark, would not fire)
I swapped the black box ( had spark would not fire)
I have not checked compression, but I have no reason to believe that is the issue.

One thing I notice is that it seams to have a weaker spark when compared to my other ATV that runs.

I also got a spark when I connected the coil to this ATV like a zap when I connected the little wires to it.
I also got a spark when I connected the little back box to this ATV. Like I zap when I plugged it in.
I have checked battery connections. ground was loose, I fixed it, but the ATV would still NOT start. I cleaned the ground to the frame as well.

Both coil and black box still work on my other ATV, just not this one.

I have pulled the crank cover off as well as the cam shaft cover to inspect the dowels because I read that they can sheer off and screw up the timing but everything looked ok

I removed the stator to inspect it visually,but no signs of burning. I ordered a brand new Stator as a spare but will not get it for a week or so. ( I have not swapped the stator from the other ATV to try)

I am leaning towards it being a week stator/pick up or maybe my kill switch/headlight switch is faulty and shorting out.
I have checked a stator on a different ATV and will be able to check this one with my tester and the help of youtube when I have time.

But how do I check or inspect the kill/headlight switch?

I am thinking there is some kind of short somewhere because it sparked when I connected the coil as well as when I connected the black box. and this short is possibly steeling the spark from the spark plug and making it weaker.

I read somewhere someone had a similar problem with the same age ATV and it was the silver control box located just above the black box. its expensive and don't want to just buy one....nor do I want to fry my other ATV's one to try it on this ATV.

what else am I missing?

advice and suggestions greatly appreciated.

Was a beautiful day in the mountains so my 8 year old son and I went for a ride in our back yard. I have a 98 Honda Foreman S 450, a Yamaha Wolverine 300, and the Trailbalzer 400. I took the trailblazer and my son took the Wolverine. Honda and Yamaha are 4x4 but the Polaris is so much more fun to ride on these some what flat trails.

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So, this might sound like a dumb question. I have a 2012 sportsman 550 EPS in that bronze/graphite color. So my question is, do I have ADC? On my AWD switch it is only the 2 position switch which tells me I do not have it, but under the front panel I have the Yellow cap resovoir and the tube going to the differential. There is no fluid in the resovoir. I had a 2010 and it had the 3 position switch. There is no mention of anything in the manual that says whether you have it or not. So, is it possible that they changed for 2012 and included adc on the eps model with only the 2 position switch? When I look on the polaris parts diagram for the 550 EPS it shows that the front diff is the ADC model.

im kind of confused, does anyone know about this? Thanks for the help.