Category: Forum News

Hey everyone, looking for a few p arts to finish up the installation of my factory XMR front bumper. Any chance someone has the follow parts available? Or maybe someone with an XMR Renegade can confirm part numbers for me on what else I need to purchase.On the attached parts diagram, I believe I will need the following parts. I already have the XMR Bumper itself, but just need to get everything else required to replace the factory XXC bumper.

Part 600 - 705009684
Part 255 - 705009707
Part 15 - 705205019

Thanks!

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Have 30" Zilla's on my machine and just cant keep it from eating belts. Stock belt lasted 200 miles give or take, and then another one this last weekend.

After the first belt let go, I did some clutch work and thought I had kicked the belt issue. I put an EPI pink secondary PEBS27 (stiffest), plus a bronze 3/16 pre-loading washer behind it in the secondary roller. I am probably just shy of 300lbs of force on that spring with the preloading at 1.25". I switched up the primary - tried a couple different springs and shimmed till I got the engagement and shift-out where I wanted it.

The belt lasted a solid 450 miles of hard riding before grenading last weekend - I was running through a foot of leftover wet snow in 4wd on and off the throttle, and admittedly not watching CVT temps. Belt was an EPI severe duty but probably switching back to OEM Polaris.

The only variable left are weights and helix profile. I am not sure changing just the weights will make that big of a difference from where I am, but a weight set that provides higher pinch than stock through the midrange might be what I need.

Would changing to a full on clutch kit even help, or is short belt life just a reality for this machine with bigger tires? Any of the brands stand out as having the best belt life of any clutch kit?

EPI, RVS Performance, Dalton, QSC. etc.?

My bike will idle for a few minutes and then stall, when I drive it it will run fine for a couple minutes and then stall, does anybody have any ideas?

I just had my 2018 Defender with 10 miles on it delivered 2 days ago. The speedometer will stop working and then a dash message " low gear" comes up while driving, the Defender than almost stalls out. The problem is intermittent and resets when I turn it off and then on again, than starts all over again. I had 30 inch tires installed, a rear winch, light bar and front bumper as far as extras go. Any ideas? I got rid of my Rangee to get away from problems! Thank you, Larry

Hey all, I've got a 330 Sportsman 1995 model I think. The trans grinds into High but works in all other gears. It also doesn't seem to have 4x4 anymore.

I would be greatfull for any help.

Tanner

Hi everyone,

I have a 2012 DS250 and Im having some issues with the CVT. Here are the symptoms:

It starts normally when in N OR when in R with the brakes pressed.
When in F, it wont start (the electric starter doesnt work) even pressing the brakes.

Also, if I start it in N or R and put in F, it stalls instantly.

Under the seat, I accessed the ignition coil and it has 3 wires: positive, negative and a middle one. I unpluged the middle one and tested the signal coming from it, and I got this when pressing the starter button:

Gear in N: always 12 V
Gear in R + brakes pushed: 12V
Gear in R + brakes not pushed: ~4V
Gear in F: always ~4V (brakes make no difference)

So Im assuming it has something to do with the brake sensor, but its working on Reverse, so it makes no sense to me. Maybe its the CDIs fault? (Thought about replacing it but wanna make sure, because its very expensive over here)

I apprecciate any help!




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Alright, on my 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI, the high beam pod light doesn’t work. I’ve checked and swapped the bulb. Check for power at the bulb and it has power on both sides of the bulb when switch is on and none when off. I’m not sure where the fuse box is, but if the fuse was bad, there shouldn’t be any power to the bulb. Any suggestions to help figure this out? I’m completely stumped.


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I have a Sportsman 500 HO 2005 and my front axle cv joint went bad so im trying to pull the whole axle off. At first i just tried to pull it out by hand and it didn't work, then i tried using a slide hammer, didnt work. So i took the front housing off then took the lower part of the axle off of and split the u joint. I tied the whole thing to a tree and used a tow rope to try to pull the other part of the u joint out, i broke the tow rope before i could get it out. So i dont know what to do. There doesnt appear to be any damage to the front housing both sides still spin freely. Here are pictures of it:

Have my 05 sportsman (low miles at 900). It will not idle. It cuts down to about 850-900 rpms then just dies. If i choke it, it will eventually cut out. Just got a new spark plug, fuel filter and air filter. Im gonna start with the fuel filter. Where is it located on my bike?

Hey guys bought a warn vantage 2000 for my 2018 sportsman, i wired it all up but i cant seem to get anything to work. triple checked everything and still nothing. also seems its stuck in free spool? there is also a random red wire attached to the switch wiring which from the manual i believe its for an optional remote? anyway im looking for some sort of advice before i just rip the entire thing out of my 4 wheeler and take it back. this is beyond frustrating. im at a loss and ready to throw the entire thing off a roof!

on a side note has anyone noticed how its nearly impossible to get the negative screw back in when you attach the negative lead (on top or under the one thats already there)?

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