Category: Forum News

Was in at my dealer in western ND yesterday talking about the various models and years of machines. Out here the bulk of their customers are ranchers pushing cattle and the terrain is very rough...so the machines have to be tough.

Dealer mentioned in the past they could not sell the XP line for that application because the radiator would bust free from a hard hit and all kinds of issues resulting from the tough conditions. They sold lots of 570s instead.

He said all that changed when the new 2017s came out for the solo XPs.

He said these new 17 and 18 versions are tough as nails. The radiator design has been changed, no problems there. The curved aarms are thicker and larger than the straight (I could easily see this when they were sitting side by side.) Other than a blown front diff on a 17 (that Polaris covered and replaced with the 18 diff cover) they have had no issues. He spoke of a couple customers by name that "beat the crap out of their ATV's riding them 6000 miles a year and never on a trail" and their XPs are still going strong.

I thought this was encouraging information for the group after so many years of disappointment with QC issues on the XP line. I was one of the early adopters back in 2010 (gave them 1 year to get all the bugs out before I bought one....or so I thought right?) and it is good to see things finally coming around on the line.

Hi,I have a 330 ATV quad,2005 model.it was running, then last week it started loosing higher revs and popping,showing signs of the timing been out etc, I think it was the spark plug failing as it fired up and seemed to rev OK with a new plug.
But....this morning there was a strong smell of fuel, and it took a while to start. It started and ran for a few minutes I pushed in the choke then noticed a puddle of fuel underneath so turned it off. On investigating I found that the fuel was running like a stream from the left hand pipe on the air filter box. The mixture is fuel / oil and the pipe is coming from the engine with a white plastic tube half way down the pipe which I presume is either a filter or non return valve ? My fuel tank is completely empty so presume its got into the engine and through engine pressure is getting pumped into the air box, but what is causing this and how do I fix it ??? Cheers karl

the title says it all

I'm trying to figure out if it is worth it to buy in Quebec.

Im seeing better prices, but Im trying to figure out the taxes and if its worth it.

Anyone who has done it, can you let me know the steps you took? And if it worked out well?

Thanks

Hello,

I have a 2013 Outlander 1000. I have a moose 60" plow with the center mount under the machine. Every time i am plowing and i put the machine in reverse my plow bangs off the ground because the front suspension is so soft. I even tried cranking the shocks up to the stiffest setting it still didn't help. I was wonder what everyone has been doing to fix this issue? I have been thinking about going with a small lift kit, but i don't know if i should go with a bracket style lift kit like highlifters or just a puck style lift kit that goes under the shock. I don't want it to ride terrible, but a little stiff won't bother me.

The reason's i want to do this.
#1 to fix this snow plow issue
#2 to get the front end to stop hitting on every single rock
#3 So my plow mount quit's hitting when i am crossing logs or rail road tracks
#4 to try to clear 30" tires because i have an extra set for my Maverick. If i can't clear 30's whats the biggest size i can clear?

Thank you for any help.

Hi all...have a question. I ride 07 outlander 650 ho bought it still had factory tires on it .....only 1800km on it .
I want to upgrade to 28" aggressive mud tires . What kind of clutch kit is recommended? I don't want to worry about blowing belts on the trail. And I do a lot of poker derby riding...trails and so forth. Shoot me any ideas or answers you guys have
-Thx

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

I have a 2010 850 and had to replace the front right axle. I went with a Rhino from SuperAtv. The problem I'm having is I can't keep the axle in the differential. I can hear the retainer clip "click" into place and I can't move the inner axle housing at all when on the jack. Stays seated in differential. I put everything back together, rotate the tire/wheel, turn the wheel left and right, etc. Occasionally I can turn the tire left and right quickly and the axle will disengage from the differential. When I take it off the jack and back it out of the garage, it disengages from the differential and I can move it in and out by hand, every time. I have also been able to move it into the diff by hand and hear the click. Then it's tight again until I run the machine again. Go 20 feet and check again and it's loose again. SuperATV replaced the first axle that I had this problem with and I'm having it again with the second one. They have been helpful but I don't know if it's a problem with the axle or something else.

I noticed I had a worn out ball joint on the bottom arm so I bought a new one and replace that today. Very little play in the front right now and it didn't help at all.

I've researched this issue on the web but mainly found things about this happening on Rangers and on the rear. I still have the original axle on the other side. Maybe the new axle is a little long and is being pushed out by the other axle? Should there be a space inside the diff between the two axles? I can't tell if they are touching or not.

Any suggestions? I really need the machine running - duck season is getting ready to break loose!

Thanks,

CMDux

I have a 2010 850 and had to replace the front right axle. I went with a Rhino from SuperAtv. The problem I'm having is I can't keep the axle in the differential. I can hear the retainer clip "click" into place and I can't move the inner axle housing at all when on the jack. Stays seated in differential. I put everything back together, rotate the tire/wheel, turn the wheel left and right, etc. Occasionally I can turn the tire left and right quickly and the axle will disengage from the differential. When I take it off the jack and back it out of the garage, it disengages from the differential and I can move it in and out by hand, every time. I have also been able to move it into the diff by hand and hear the click. Then it's tight again until I run the machine again. Go 20 feet and check again and it's loose again. SuperATV replaced the first axle that I had this problem with and I'm having it again with the second one. They have been helpful but I don't know if it's a problem with the axle or something else.

I noticed I had a worn out ball joint on the bottom arm so I bought a new one and replace that today. Very little play in the front right now and it didn't help at all.

I've researched this issue on the web but mainly found things about this happening on Rangers and on the rear. I still have the original axle on the other side. Maybe the new axle is a little long and is being pushed out by the other axle? Should there be a space inside the diff between the two axles? I can't tell if they are touching or not.

Any suggestions? I really need the machine running - duck season is getting ready to break loose!

Thanks,

CMDux

anyone know of a aftermarket source for renegade replacement plastics.
looking for a new rear BLACK fender. lots of $$ from the dealer.
thx

was out yesterday picking up some NYs yard trash with the popo, shut it off and stepped off, when restarted it had no movement regardless
of gear selection, belt ? , not that lucky, found the tranny input shaft sheared at the flywheel, ideals what could have caused it to shear ?
i dont do wheelies or ride it hard, ill post a pic latter.