I've got a 2015 Sportsman 570 EPS and a small leak has developed at the front diff. input shaft seal. I did not have the leak until I plowed snow with it in AWD. I've checked into replacing the seal ,but I do have a little wobble in the shaft , I was wondering how much wobble is too much! My Machine was purchased used ,so I have no idea of it's history other than it only has less than 40 hours on it and right around 100 miles. If needed can I rebuild my front Diff. myself or does it require a professional? I am very mechanically inclined , so if it not too bad I'll do it myself.
1993 Trail Boss 350L brakes
I recently purchased a project trail boss with busted transmission and have begun the process of bringing it back to life. The previous owner removed the front brake lever and MC but left all the lines still attached at the T. The line from the MC to the T has quite a bit of rust on/in the threads so I assume it is toast. Are there any alternatives to buying the OEM lines? I worry I will have to replace all 4 lines since they have been open to contamination from the main line. Any thoughts/suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated. Just got it back running and now want to be able to stop.
Oil filters – the good and the bad
Here's a couple of links to semi-scientific comparisons of the internal workings of oil filters
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
OIL FILTERS EXPOSED! - Introduction
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
OIL FILTERS EXPOSED! - Introduction
Will a hotter plug make my engine start easier
There's a lot of misconception about hot spark plugs vs cold plugs. Also racing plugs vs standard plugs.
I have a lot of people come to me wanting a "hotter" spark plug to get their engine to start better in cold weather. I answer the that "all plugs start out at the same temperature and that is whatever the temperature the engine is".
The heat range of a spark plug has nothing to do with how "hot" the spark is. This article on the NGK website explains it best:
One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.
A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.
For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed.
The image below is a representation of the difference between a hot and cold heat range. NGK spark plugs’ heat range goes from 2 (hottest) to 11 (coldest).
Source: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ing-heat-range
With that cleared up; Will a racing plug give me more power?
This article from the NGK website answers that question and the answer is a resounding NO!
Be cautious—most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip. Their internal construction is no different (in NGK's case, as all of our spark plugs must conform to the same level of quality controls) than most standard spark plugs.
There are some exceptions, though. Extremely high compression cars or those running exotic fuels will have different spark plug requirements and, hence, NGK makes spark plugs that are well-suited for these requirements. They are classified as "specialized spark plugs for racing applications." Some are built with precious metal alloy tips for greater durability and the ability to fire in denser or leaner air-fuel mixtures. However, installing the same spark plugs Kenny Bernstein uses in his 300+ mph Top Fuel car (running nitromethane at a 2:1 air-fuel ratio and over 20:1 dynamic compression) in your basically stock Honda Civic (running 15:1 air-fuel ratios with roughly 9.5:1 compression) will do nothing for you! In fact, since Kenny's plugs are fully 4 heat ranges colder, they'd foul out in your Honda in just a few minutes.
NGK Spark Plugs as a company tries to stay clear of saying that a racing spark plug (or ANY spark plug) will give you large gains in horsepower. While certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction), we try to tell people who are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer.
To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air-fuel mixture, survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.
Some of these "specialized racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy center/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these torturous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower.
Source: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ng-spark-plugs
If you have any other questions about spark plugs, they may well be answered here: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...park-plug-faqs
The question that is avoided is, "What is the best spark plug to use?" I get asked this question a lot and this is where experience and personal bias come into play.
I personally prefer Nippon Denso spark plugs and loathe Champion plugs. Champion spark plugs are OK for lawn mowers and Harley's, but I say I will use any spark plug over a Champion.
In 1967, when I first started working in a motorcycle shop, Triumph, Indian, Harley and BSA were the mainstay of the motorcycle industry. Honda, Kawasaki, Bridgestone, Yamaha and Suzuki were just trying to establish themselves as a viable alternative. The shop I worked in sold Hitachi and Champion spark plugs - Hitachi was worse than Champion and I had already given up on Champion due to an experience that I had with my 65 Mustang. My dad used Champion in his tractor because (to the best of my memory) Champion was the only company that produced 18mm threaded spark plugs (BTW all spark plugs are metric threaded). Today, Autolite is made in China, Champion and NGK are made in the US and AC or Delco plugs are made by NGK. Read about Champion and AC spark plugs here:
https://history.gmheritagecenter.com..._Plug_Division
Flame out
I have a lot of people come to me wanting a "hotter" spark plug to get their engine to start better in cold weather. I answer the that "all plugs start out at the same temperature and that is whatever the temperature the engine is".
The heat range of a spark plug has nothing to do with how "hot" the spark is. This article on the NGK website explains it best:
One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.
A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.
For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed.
The image below is a representation of the difference between a hot and cold heat range. NGK spark plugs’ heat range goes from 2 (hottest) to 11 (coldest).
Source: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ing-heat-range
With that cleared up; Will a racing plug give me more power?
This article from the NGK website answers that question and the answer is a resounding NO!
Be cautious—most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip. Their internal construction is no different (in NGK's case, as all of our spark plugs must conform to the same level of quality controls) than most standard spark plugs.
There are some exceptions, though. Extremely high compression cars or those running exotic fuels will have different spark plug requirements and, hence, NGK makes spark plugs that are well-suited for these requirements. They are classified as "specialized spark plugs for racing applications." Some are built with precious metal alloy tips for greater durability and the ability to fire in denser or leaner air-fuel mixtures. However, installing the same spark plugs Kenny Bernstein uses in his 300+ mph Top Fuel car (running nitromethane at a 2:1 air-fuel ratio and over 20:1 dynamic compression) in your basically stock Honda Civic (running 15:1 air-fuel ratios with roughly 9.5:1 compression) will do nothing for you! In fact, since Kenny's plugs are fully 4 heat ranges colder, they'd foul out in your Honda in just a few minutes.
NGK Spark Plugs as a company tries to stay clear of saying that a racing spark plug (or ANY spark plug) will give you large gains in horsepower. While certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction), we try to tell people who are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer.
To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air-fuel mixture, survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.
Some of these "specialized racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy center/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these torturous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower.
Source: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ng-spark-plugs
If you have any other questions about spark plugs, they may well be answered here: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...park-plug-faqs
The question that is avoided is, "What is the best spark plug to use?" I get asked this question a lot and this is where experience and personal bias come into play.
I personally prefer Nippon Denso spark plugs and loathe Champion plugs. Champion spark plugs are OK for lawn mowers and Harley's, but I say I will use any spark plug over a Champion.
In 1967, when I first started working in a motorcycle shop, Triumph, Indian, Harley and BSA were the mainstay of the motorcycle industry. Honda, Kawasaki, Bridgestone, Yamaha and Suzuki were just trying to establish themselves as a viable alternative. The shop I worked in sold Hitachi and Champion spark plugs - Hitachi was worse than Champion and I had already given up on Champion due to an experience that I had with my 65 Mustang. My dad used Champion in his tractor because (to the best of my memory) Champion was the only company that produced 18mm threaded spark plugs (BTW all spark plugs are metric threaded). Today, Autolite is made in China, Champion and NGK are made in the US and AC or Delco plugs are made by NGK. Read about Champion and AC spark plugs here:
https://history.gmheritagecenter.com..._Plug_Division
Flame out
New 850/1000 atv guru bumper is in but..
Got my guru bumper installed Saturday. Only to get a text from John Sunday saying there is issues with the lower bar hitting the tires under heavy shock compression... Soooo Im now waiting for him to send me the "revised" bumper.. Not sure how many of you here have ordered a bumper for the new 850/1000's but I was the second bumper shipped. I dont know if he will stop current production and shipping to revamp what he has or what. So it might be a while longer before you guys see the bumpers.. It sucks because I really like the design. Hopefully the new one will look just as bad ass... I will give the man kudos for making things right though... And btw.. This bumper looks pretty damn awesome and the quality is top notch.
Grinding noise in reverse
Hi.
I'm new to this forum and hope someone can help me.
Just bought a used 2007 Outlander Max XT ltd and when I go in H or L everything is ok, but when I put it in reverse after driving for a while it makes a grinding noise. Then I put it in H and go forward a bit and then back in reverse it is ok. The grinding noise is gone for a while but comes back after driving it for a while i H/L and put into reverse again.
Sorry for my bad english, I'm Norwegian...
I'm new to this forum and hope someone can help me.
Just bought a used 2007 Outlander Max XT ltd and when I go in H or L everything is ok, but when I put it in reverse after driving for a while it makes a grinding noise. Then I put it in H and go forward a bit and then back in reverse it is ok. The grinding noise is gone for a while but comes back after driving it for a while i H/L and put into reverse again.
Sorry for my bad english, I'm Norwegian...
2012 Polaris Sportsman 850 EPS
Good Morning,
I purchased a used 2012 Polaris Sportsman 850 EPS roughly 5 months ago that had 600 miles on the machine. There was only one oil change done on the ATV since the original owner had it and I can tell it is starting to run a little rough as I have put on another 200 miles on it since I have owned it. I am looking to change the oil and have a question on oil filters.
I live in Minnesota, is there a local place like Fleet Farm/Auto Zone/Walmart that would sell the correct oil filter? If not, where would be the best place to order the filter from online?
Also, my EPS light came on last week and the EPS stopped working completely, has anyone else had this happen? I was going to look at the power steering fluid to make sure that is filled.
I am a first ATV owner, any constructive suggestions with care and maintenance on this model is really appreciated!
Thanks,
Jeremy
I purchased a used 2012 Polaris Sportsman 850 EPS roughly 5 months ago that had 600 miles on the machine. There was only one oil change done on the ATV since the original owner had it and I can tell it is starting to run a little rough as I have put on another 200 miles on it since I have owned it. I am looking to change the oil and have a question on oil filters.
I live in Minnesota, is there a local place like Fleet Farm/Auto Zone/Walmart that would sell the correct oil filter? If not, where would be the best place to order the filter from online?
Also, my EPS light came on last week and the EPS stopped working completely, has anyone else had this happen? I was going to look at the power steering fluid to make sure that is filled.
I am a first ATV owner, any constructive suggestions with care and maintenance on this model is really appreciated!
Thanks,
Jeremy
Halo headlights
Thinking about doing somthing to my headlights, possibly the halos, don’t know if I should do red or blue. Does anyone have a pic of them on a red sportsman?
Great stuff for faded plastics
I mentioned in another post about using Wipe-New on faded plastic and even Rejuvenate floor wax. I discovered that the floor wax makes quite a mess if you happen to spray something like Purple Magic or Blue Wolf cleaner on it when cleaning your machine.
The Wipe new stuff works great but is quite expensive no more than what they send you. So I got to look on Ebay and discovered this stuff:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CarWorx-Ref...72.m2749.l2649
I'll have to say I'm impressed with it. Yes it's $33 for a 500 ml bottle but that's cheaper than if you bought the same amount of Wipe New.
I have not had a chance to take any photos yet.
The Wipe new stuff works great but is quite expensive no more than what they send you. So I got to look on Ebay and discovered this stuff:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CarWorx-Ref...72.m2749.l2649
I'll have to say I'm impressed with it. Yes it's $33 for a 500 ml bottle but that's cheaper than if you bought the same amount of Wipe New.
I have not had a chance to take any photos yet.
Xmr max 1000r
This machine is a piece of shit and no good
Because it was sold to me with all these warranty and promises
But since the Dealer sold it with aftermarket parts when I brought in 30 days later for a front end suspension problem to use Can Am warranty or use the service contact they encourage me to buy also they said there is no warranty due to the aftermarket parts
And I have to pay 4K in damages
Message to All if you want warranty on anew machine don’t buy a 2018 with aftermarket parts
Because it was sold to me with all these warranty and promises
But since the Dealer sold it with aftermarket parts when I brought in 30 days later for a front end suspension problem to use Can Am warranty or use the service contact they encourage me to buy also they said there is no warranty due to the aftermarket parts
And I have to pay 4K in damages
Message to All if you want warranty on anew machine don’t buy a 2018 with aftermarket parts