any electrical experts in here? So I have a 2001 sportsman 400 that I bought as a fixer upper. Original owner said it wouldn't charge the battery. I found the battery cables loose and 2 broken wires up front. Fixed both wires, 1 was for the high beam and i think the other was the red wire from the regulator. I know power goes from the stator to the voltage regulator, the 3 legs of the regulator i have .2 ohms on each leg, have 15 15 and about 27 V AC coming in on each leg, going out on the red and brown I have about 9.5V at idle and it goes up to about 13.5 revving it up. Originally I thought it was much lower so I bought a new aftermarket regulator and tried it tonight and it was lower output dc voltage than my original. Once I hook up the red and brown to the machines wires it immediately drops to 4.5 V. So I believe something after the regulator is pulling the voltage down but I don't know what is after the regulator. At the battery cables I have the same 4.5 V with the battery removed. I have a brand new battery but haven't put it in yet until I have it fixed. I believe even with the battery out of it, I have 12V out of the regulator alone, when I plug it in I should have 12V at the battery cables but I don't, I have about 4.5V with it plugged in..

any help would be greatly appreciated.

any electrical experts in here? So I have a 2001 sportsman 400 that I bought as a fixer upper. Original owner said it wouldn't charge the battery. I found the battery cables loose and 2 broken wires up front. Fixed both wires, 1 was for the high beam and i think the other was the red wire from the regulator. I know power goes from the stator to the voltage regulator, the 3 legs of the regulator i have .2 ohms on each leg, have 15 15 and about 27 V AC coming in on each leg, going out on the red and brown I have about 9.5V at idle and it goes up to about 13.5 revving it up. Originally I thought it was much lower so I bought a new aftermarket regulator and tried it tonight and it was lower output dc voltage than my original. Once I hook up the red and brown to the machines wires it immediately drops to 4.5 V. So I believe something after the regulator is pulling the voltage down but I don't know what is after the regulator. At the battery cables I have the same 4.5 V with the battery removed. I have a brand new battery but haven't put it in yet until I have it fixed. I believe even with the battery out of it, I have 12V out of the regulator alone, when I plug it in I should have 12V at the battery cables but I don't, I have about 4.5V with it plugged in..

any help would be greatly appreciated.

hello everyone. I bought a 2001 sportsman 400 as a fixer upper. I have made a few repairs, gotten it running, all around seems pretty solid, just trying to work out a kink or two..

First for some information, I replaced all the fluids, greased everything, new belt and clutch spring, new spark plug, fixed a few broken wires, etc. So the machine started right up and runs good on flat ground, once n awhile it has a small hesitation but comes out of it pretty quickly. I was doing some testing and I was climbing a steep hill slowly, from idle to about half throttle everything seems fine, over half throttle it falls flat on its face/has no power and almost sounds like hitting the rev limiter but its not, almost like its not getting fuel or getting too much, can't really tell. It only does it when the front end of the machine is raised up. I took the carb apart and it was very clean, I was thinking maybe the main jet was dirty but it wasn't. Just for testing I went from a 167.5 to a 175 jet to see if that would change anything, it hasn't made any difference except maybe gotten worse. I had the dealership look at the float height and they said it looked perfect. The spark plug was white originally with the 167.5 and still the same after switching to the 175. While it is stumbling I have tried putting in on reserve, opening the fuel cap, pulling the choke, none of it makes a difference. I know fuel delivery to the carb is very good. I can go up the same hill in reverse and it works perfectly fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? attached is a picture of the spark plug.

thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

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hello everyone. I bought a 2001 sportsman 400 as a fixer upper. I have made a few repairs, gotten it running, all around seems pretty solid, just trying to work out a kink or two..

First for some information, I replaced all the fluids, greased everything, new belt and clutch spring, new spark plug, fixed a few broken wires, etc. So the machine started right up and runs good on flat ground, once n awhile it has a small hesitation but comes out of it pretty quickly. I was doing some testing and I was climbing a steep hill slowly, from idle to about half throttle everything seems fine, over half throttle it falls flat on its face/has no power and almost sounds like hitting the rev limiter but its not, almost like its not getting fuel or getting too much, can't really tell. It only does it when the front end of the machine is raised up. I took the carb apart and it was very clean, I was thinking maybe the main jet was dirty but it wasn't. Just for testing I went from a 167.5 to a 175 jet to see if that would change anything, it hasn't made any difference except maybe gotten worse. I had the dealership look at the float height and they said it looked perfect. The spark plug was white originally with the 167.5 and still the same after switching to the 175. While it is stumbling I have tried putting in on reserve, opening the fuel cap, pulling the choke, none of it makes a difference. I know fuel delivery to the carb is very good. I can go up the same hill in reverse and it works perfectly fine. Any ideas what could be causing this? attached is a picture of the spark plug.

thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Greetings from Ohio..... Just bought my first Polaris, a 2016 Sportsman 1000xp Highlifter. I hope to learn more about Polaris and i'm sure any questions I may have will be answered. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

This is simply just wonderful...

I've been doing ecm flashing for awhile now and its amazing the difference a "custom" flash can do to a bike. Even in stock form I've seen 5hp at the wheels.... modified bikes I've seen 10+ at the wheels. Whats the difference you ask? How is this accomplished?

It's called custom tuning.... not a box flash or one size fits all.
The Flash Form is the difference find it here --> Flash Form <--

On my site you find the flash form under the ECM FLASHING tab. You print it, fill it out, and send with your ecm. That form tells me what you want done to your bike and the modifications that are done to it. This is how we make the correct adjustments and pull the most power possible out of it. Heads, compression, bore, stroke, octane, cams, ect... they all need to be accounted for to make peak power. Timing curves, Fuel curves, torque limiter, timing retards... every year of bike has a different file in it. No year is the same. Thats why each computer is done to your bikes specs and your requests.


I've seen people switch from one flash to ours and gain 5-9hp.... you read that right!

So I was doing my brake pads change and started on my front left took all apart and when it was time to retract piston with c clamp it was really hard to push like never before so I stop and release pressure and seen that one piston was cocked the other was normal so I decided to push the cocked one alone and it wouldnt do nothing i changed to other piston and it went back in smooth like normal..
Now went back to cocked piston and noticed it was loose i grabbed with fingers and it came out pretty easy then some brake fluid came out of the hole where that cocked piston was in.. what do you guys recommend to do a new oem caliper is almost 200$ really not trying to go that route... and buddy found a shop called miller i believe he sells pistons 40$ each brand new..

Really want to try the new piston only for now but is it possible just to drop in and press back in with clamp or is this over with should I just get new caliper

I'm guilty this happened ran bike several rides with pads really worn out almost metal to metal now i know learned my lesson about that.... thanks in advance

So the front rack on my Xplorer 300 broke (was repaired with Gorilla Glue rather) when I got it then broke later. I wanted a storage box to go on the back to store the usual off road essentials (2 cycle oil, tools, gloves, tow strap, coat, beer). Just kidding on that last one. But yeah Pepsis, Red Bulls, snacks.

I could have bought a new front rack for $150 and a rear storage box for another $150. And would have if my machine wasn't 20 years old and kind of beat up.

I these out of 1/2" plywood. I had most of this stuff already laying around so most of what I had to buy was hardware related.

I installed some eye hooks for bungee cords on the front. Also serves as a light mount.

I did not weigh the rear box but my guess is around 30 lbs. Being 155 lbs, and most people weigh 200 lbs, my guess is my weight would offset the weight of the box and whatever is in it. And I settled on 8" high. 12" looked a bit odd.

I installed a lock but it's not quite functional so I'm going to have to do some more work on it. But for the most part it's finished.

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From houston tx my bike is a 16 outlander 1000 xmr glad to be here on this forum