So I sunk my bike.
Followed all the steps to drain the water. Then Changed my motor oil, demand drive and tranny/rear end oil. Put a new spark plug in and coated all connection with Dielectric grease but it still won’t fire up. Tonight I’m going to drain the gas tank and switch out the gas. But I do t think that’s the issue but need to rule that out.
Am I missing something

Ive got a 2015 outlander 800xmr, i bought it brandnew. The powersteering has never in my opnion been the greatest. Most of the time it still takes a little effort on my part to turn the tires but its been like that since new. Last weekend we went riding and the steering feelt like always but in the middle of the ride i felt my self having to put alot more effort into steering. All 3 DPS settings feel the same. I had the bike stationary in neutral on flat hard ground and in each setting i went lock to lock multiple times and i felt no change. How can i trouble shoot to find the problem. No i havent checked the fuses yet. Im going to do that b4 anytimhing else but im wanting to know if there is a sets of tests i can do. Also for those with the xmrs or a reg outlander with 30in backs, how easy is your steering? My girlfriend just bouggt a 2017 honda rubicon with powersteering and it sits on 27 itp xls and that steering is like butter.

I have a 96 Scrambler 400 2 stroke. It was running fine and then last spring took it for a short ride and it stalled out and has not been running right ever since. I've checked out spark, fuel, etc. It starts up and runs fine until you take it out, warm it up, and give it full throttle. It then loses power, chokes and stalls out. Doesn't start again until next day when it has cooled down. I took the air cleaner off and noticed that when running there is some blowback from the carb. Is that normal? I was thinking that I probably need to take the reed valves out and replace them. I just wanted to get some input from some of you before I pull the carb off and take the valves apart? Thanks.

Had to park my 2000 500cc Traxter when we moved. Got tied up rebuilding part of the new house so didn't get back to it for 5 months. Go to start it and it fires right up. Let it idle for a minute or two and when I tried to give it gas it died. Then wouldn't start back. Messed with it and it backfired so hard it blew rocks out from under the 4 wheeler. Then nothing. Took the top off of the carb and the impact had dislodged a spring off of the slide. So put it back together and nothing. Got some ether and it back fired again. So I figured the backfires may have damaged the carb.

So I order one that was supposed to be the correct one off of Ebay. Started putting it on when a couple of issues came up. Well the carb isn't the exact match it was supposed to be and since I admitted I had put it on the 4 wheeler the guy won't take it back. Well I've found a work around for all but one of the problems. The choke on mine screws into the side of the carb and consist of a small brass piston with a rod in the end. It screws in with a plastic nut with a rubber extension. The new carb had the same plastic nut and extension but when I took the nut off there is no opening for the piston. Looks like just a place for the rod to insert.

So my question is are any of you familiar enough with Traxter carbs to help me figure out how to hook a choke up? Hopefully I can find the part that goes on the end of the cable to work with this carb.

The carb looks almost identical. The differences involve the throttle cable. Mine has a threaded male end that screws into the carb. This one has the same mechanism but the carb has a male tube sticking out that is threaded. I've got this worked out but mention it so you would know the new card better. Also there is a vent that comes off the top of the carb. It has about a 3/8" hose connection. Mine has a 90 degree bend in it. The new one sticks straight back. I've also got this worked out. So if someone can help me figure out the choke I can hopefully salvage this and make it work.

I was in a hurry to go hunting with it and didn't take the time to verify everything. My other option is to get a kit and rebuild mine but since this one didn't match up worried the next one won't either. Thanks for any help. Bill

We really enjoyed our weekend ride. The Defender handles great with plenty of power.

So I've been digging around looking for the part number for the Polaris winch for my 2013 sportsman 500 HO. I have come up with 2878790. When searching eBay for them I see one that says it fits 11-14 500 HO and another that says it fits 10-12 500 HO but both have the same pet number. Was there a difference between 2012 and 2013 or is it an error in the listing?

I have an 2011 outlander 500 that I have added several electrical components, 1) a LED light bar, 2) auxillary running lights, 3) connecting DC outlet and 4) a cetk battery tender/charger cable.
This is 4 additional ring connector's bolted to the battery, in addition to the + and - cables..
Is this the best way to do this?
Are there other options?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Hi guys and gals,

New here, just traded my Ds 450 for an outlander 800 and am having some issues. Could someone point me in the right direction of where to post my question?


:grin

Thanks!

Need some help on most economical way to fix a Polaris 400 Sportsman clutch situation. A buddy gave me a 2002 that was not running and partially disassembled by an independent shop. They wanted ~ $2K to fix it and it wasn't worth that to him so he gave it to me. I got the engine running, and replaced all the fluids, but they had taken the clutches off the machine. This is the first time I've ever dealt with a Polaris or belt drive machine, so I obviously have some learning to do.

I took them by the local Polaris dealer and they pointed out the radial cracks in the primary clutch - so obviously I needed a new primary. This is a going to be a play toy for around the property, so I didn't want to sink a bunch of money into it. I ordered a Parts Ace Primary non-EBS Clutch and was going to rebuild the secondary clutch just to be safe. Unfortunately, I did not realize until I disassembled the secondary clutch that this is apparently an EBS set-up - as there is no tabbed spring and there are rollers instead of buttons. In looking at the primary, the center shaft is ribbed, which is apparently another key indicator of an EBS clutch (according to EPI).

Parts Ace doesn't make an EBS clutch for the 400, and I can't seem to find any other sources, although Parts Ace and others do make an EBS replacement clutch for a 500 Sportsman.

Here's where I need some help:

1. Is a Sportsman 500 EBS clutch interchangeable with a 400 EBS clutch? The on-line Polaris parts catalogs don't even show an option for an EBS clutch, so I have no idea what the part number for that would be. If they were interchangeable, then I could get the Parts Ace 500 EBS clutch and use it?

2. Could I run the Parts Ace Sportsman 400 non EBS Primary with the Factory EBS secondary clutch? I realize I would not have EBS, but I'm not sure if this is really going to be a big deal? Also, not sure if the two will align properly?

3. What is the proper belt for an EBS-equipped 400? The existing belt that was on the machine was Polaris PN 3211077, which is the same one the local dealer gave me when I asked for a replacement belt - but at the time I did not know it had EBS and I understand that EBS takes a different belt.

Just trying to figure out the most economical way to get this machine operational again. I'm a little hesitant to buy a brand new OEM EBS primary, for two reasons: 1) I don't know the part number to order or the cost and 2) I'm not sure what else might be wrong with the machine and I don't want to sink a bunch of money into a brand new EBS primary and the find out there's a problem with the secondary or other things and suddenly I'm committed to $1500 worth of parts. I've already replaced a few low $ items (starter, pull rope), but I noticed it has a ripped CV boot in the front and seems like the shocks are kind of bouncy - so I suspect there's some other hidden things that need fixing.

Looking for advice or ideas from you guys who are much more knowledgeable on Polaris stuff than I am.

Thanks, John