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http://menshealthcme.com/nevi-skin/

Hey everyone, new guy from Newfoundland, Canada here. I'm an aircraft maintenance engineer and don't have much free time to ride but I'm hoping everyone's doing well and I'm looking forward to learning a lot from you all in the future! Thanks in advance for all the knowledge and help.

14 outlander 500 max xt dps 4500 miles


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Hey everyone, thanks for viewing my post. I'm new to the forum and I have a few questions about my 2004 ATP, specifically why my rear end failed. I received this bike from my father in law, and prior to him it had only had one owner. Both previous owners only used the bike for hauling wood and moose, not much else. Upon receiving my quad, I took it upon myself to service it front to back, changing all fluids, greasing all bearings and all that good stuff. When I was out on my second ride on the bike, I was going up a small hill on a fairly steep incline (30-40 degree) and the rear end totally failed. At the time I was not sure what happened but I heard a loud pop and started rolling backwards. I soon found that I only had front wheel drive and managed to limp it back home. On closer inspection I found that the rear driveshaft was jumping over the spines on the rear end and was not capable of any power output whatsoever. The input splines for the rear differential are totally bald but the driveshaft splines seem fine. Did Polaris really make the driveshaft splines with a harder metal than the rear end? Is this a common occurrence with Polaris ATV's? Or ATP's? And does anyone have any insight as to why this may have happened in the first place? As I said, the bike was used very minimally prior to myself owning it, but the use it received from previous owners was definitely more rigorous than what I am intending. This repair will cost me around $1000 (new input gears, driveshaft, seal kit, mounting bolts, oils, etc.) and I just want to make sure it wont happen again. Thank you in advance for any insight into this problem, anything and everything is appreciated! I will attach pictures of the splines as soon as I transfer them to my computer.

New to the forum. Got a 2011 Sportsman 500 HO. I wanted to introduce myself to the group.

I purchased my full set of JCCapri bushings in August of 2014 and have put a little over 2300 miles on them since. I'm pretty hard on my quad and tend to ride on some rough trails so I'm not complaining by any means.

The bolts are all torqued to spec and I've checked to make sure it's not the mounting holes. I do have one hole that is worn out on the upper right rear a arm but the ones I'm seeing the most movement out of are the lower front a arms.

I'm not sure if I'm going to go back with JCCapri or go with Garage Products. I'll probably end up going with GP just because they come with new sleeves and carry a lifetime warranty. They are a little more expensive but they'll make installing the SLC rear HD arched arms easier.

Next time I'm in the garage I'll try to get some video of the movement.

First Time to Post

Hello everyone, I have a Can Am Commander 1000 2012 limited. I had a problem with the motor knocking and it died and would not start. After investigating, primary clutch was rattling with peices inside, secondary clutch gears were broken, intake and exhaust side of clutch case piping was plugged with old destroyed belt debris. I pulled the motor to investigate inside the motor.

I found that the bearings between the journal and rod was destroyed, it also scarred the journal. I invested in a new crankshaft, bearings, and rods.

I replaced the timing chains because the bike is 5 years old and they was stretched. I kept all the original piston, rings, jugs, and I didn't fool with the valve train assembly.

Reassembled the motor to spec all except the timing on the camshaft. Let me be clear that the cam gear on this machine has no slotted peace on the back to line up with the cam shaft. The gear has 3 holes for bolting on to the camshaft and it is slick on front and back. It is a stock cam gear with the horizontal marks you are suppose to line up horizontally once you get the camshaft TDC.

So, I put piston 1 TDC, I do not have a camshaft timing tool that is recommended, so I got the cam close as I could with my good eye. Then continued by installing the cam gear and chain and so on. Rotated crankshaft for TDC for #2, repeated the same process for the camshaft, gear, and chain Now, after installing the engine, it will not crank. It acts like it wants to sometimes but doesn't.

Question #1 is there a trick to timing the camshaft with out the timing tool that is in the manual.
Question #2 Do you need to lock the Crankshaft in TDC?