Author: Forum News

Going riding this weekend to Tall Pines.

Got the old Magnum all ready. I did an oil change a month and a half ago, after the machine had been brought back from the dead, but I wanted to change it again.

Out went some 0W-40 Rotella T6 and a Fram PH6017A filter. In went some 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic and an STP 6017A filter.

The little 425cc Fuji didn't seem to care whatsoever. Runs just as great if not even quieter.
Have a great day.

Hello Everyone,

Quick back story, in January this year I got my bike stuck in some quick sand type mud and took forever to get it out. During this time I could not get the tires to spin due to the wet sand. While rocking it out I was working the throttle when I heard a pop in the rear end. Got it back to the house and it moved around for day or so then rear end locked up and has been sitting ever since.

Now for my question, what is the best practice for me here both time and money wise. Should I just break it down and rebuild it or is it better to just replace the whole differential. I have the know how to do the work just dont want to be wasting my time on a rebuild if dont have to since I have other issues to fix as well.

Hi guys

Ever since I got my scrambler 2 years ago, the choke has always been iffy; now, I don't know if that's normal on these ATV's or not, but it's pretty damn annoying.

Before, pulling the choke out very slowly would get it to rev up a bit slightly, and then it would die. If I pulled the choke out all the way (to the normal "start" position), it would die instantly after starting.

Other than that, the ATV runs completely normal, with great power, it will even start up fine without the choke, but I need to apply a slight amount of throttle to get it to stay running until it warms up (without the choke, of course, since it doesn't work).

So a few weeks I decided to take the carb out to clean it and figure out this choke problem once and for all. I had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned (even though it was already very clean inside), and cleaned all the choke mechanism, etc since the P.O. had put some oil down the cable.

After getting it back together yesterday and starting it this morning, I can say that the choke is doing the exact same thing it was doing before...even applying a slight amount of choke makes the ATV die when it's cold. I've checked the choke actuation in the carb itself, and it blocks/opens the port as I believe it should...

I just don't know if this is a normal thing with these ATV's, or a problem with mine specifically (which I can't figure out). My uncle's Sportsman 500 does something similar with the choke...

Also on another side note, does anyone know the part # of the check valve that goes on the carb overflow at the bottom? I don't see it on the parts fiche for the carb...

Hello out there to the big bore guys. First time posting to this forum. Ive done quite a bit of research and can’t find the answer to my question. Ill start with the backstory. 6 years ago, I rebuilt the top end on my predator when we ran a compression test shortly after a rebuild and it wouldnt hold on a leakdown. I was in high school at the time and worked on it in my Votech class. Instead of tearing it down, my dad just ordered the 560 kit and we bored the sleeve and I tore the bike apart only to find that the rings had lined up so that was the reason for the poor running condition and the failed leak down test. Well, we already had the parts and correct gaskets so we threw the 560 in it.

I can’t remember, been 6 years, but my dad said theres an O ring when you go to a sleeve instead of just the base gasket. Does anyone know anything about it? I can’t find any information online about an O ring, and Honestly I don’t really know where one would go. I tore it down this morning and there was no O ring, so whether its supposed to have one or not, I didnt put one in when I rebuilt it last.

The only ways Ive noticed a coolant issue. 1. It'll empty the overflow in a few hours ride time. 2. White milky sticky substance in the air box where the crank case vent goes in, definitely coolant-good old fashioned taste test. I know, causes cancer or something in California. NO coolant in the oil tank though... 3. Gelatinous clear goo on the inside of the thread-in plastic timing 'plugs', specifically the lower one over the crank bolt.

No coolant is getting in the top end, the plug is a little wet with gas (a rich condition Ive just dealt with) but no coolant. Not even with a pressure tester on the system. So is there an O ring Im missing? If so, will the cometic gasket kit for the 560 come with the O ring I need? If I can’t find out where the coolant is getting in, I might have to go back to the 500 piston and cylinder I still have and look practically brand new.

Sorry, I don’t like to be that guy whose first post on a forum is a question for the rest of the community, I just need to find out before I order gaskets to put this beast back together.

Thanks for any help you can offer, I would greatly appreciate it.

Hi my name is Levi from Godfrey Illinois I have a 2007 can am 800 h.o. glad to have joind the group.

I picked it up to just plow the driveway as it was cheap and like brand new. But the more we ride it the more we like it. I am used to bigger quads and in low and 4x4 she is just as good as any other. I’m just wondering if thinks interchange like a clutch like for the 500 or so on and so on. Also any advice on things to do first. Right now only upgrade is 26” rip saws

I bought a used 17 850 HL has 1100 miles now 92 hours. Mod list is GSE intake GSE trail tamer exhaust RVS stage 3 tune running 93 oct that’s what we have around this area. Warthog axles front and rear. Brass brake pads. Rear chassis brace. Front bilit pinion cover. I’ve put about 150 miles on the bike and I’m very particular about how I keep my things. I started to move it and let it run for a few mins and shut off the bike went to start it and nothing turn key held brake and nothing would happen all lights would come on. Fuel pump starts up but no crank. Tried and tried and tried and boom fires right up. Today we were riding a little trail with friends. Bike started right up no issue I didn’t think anything of the starting issue from before. The MIL illuminated and code is 520207 4 was circuit open/grounded. Not sure that would have an effect on starting. Also the multi function switch for the headlights stopped working. Kill switch works fine but the intermittent start is coming much more annoying to the point if it starts I don’t shut the bike off till I’m done with it. All I have to do is sit there and cycle the key 5 to 20 times and boom will start right up. Kinda at a loss and it really annoying. Any help or anyone that has had this issue before please let me know

Good afternoon, I'm wonding if has a fuel map for 2012 renegade 500 bored to a 740 thank you!

What size TB does my 2018 renegade 1000 xmr have? 46mm? 51mm? Thank you

Hello, and thank you for reading my post. New to forum, and need help. My 350l is getting coolant in the cylinder, and with the head off it looks as though it is coming from the bottom end, and i suspect the water pump seal. I removed the pull starter cover, but I am just perplexed as to how to remove the pull starter rope mechanism. Clip, hidden bolt, ???