Author: Forum News

I was wondering, I am a light driver, and I adjusted the stock shocks to get them as soft as possible.
The atv rides MUCH softer now, I almost don't feel the bumps.

But, I can't really go faster because the atv is going everywhere and is hard to control, it's like they bounce even more now, kicking me all over the place.

With elka shocks, are you able to run them soft and keep better control, or it also comes at the cost of firmer ride?

Trying to figure it out, because I do a lot of really bumpy forest trail, I don't want a shock that is going to be too firm, more like tuned for hardpack racing.

Stage3s will probably be my next upgrade, because I can't keep control when going fast with the stock shocks. It's like I can't even turn, the atv kind of rolls to the side instead of turning, a little hard to explain.

Thanks.

What I know for sure ........4 wheeler would turn over but not start. Thought it was carb. Replaced it. Still same thing. Cranked on it until I burned starter up. ( very dumb I know). Replaced starter. Back to square one. Will crank now but not start. Replaced spark plug. Still crank no start. Pull spark up and ground to motor. No spark. Just ordered ignition coil. Should this solve problem?

Hello All
I am new to this forum. Please help.
I have a 2006 Polaris sportsman 500 HO. Carb engine.
The ECM and the stator has been replaced ( Due to other issues). The ATV was running fine. Parked it and now there is absolutely no electrical power to the console. No lights also. I can hot wire the ignition switch and she will start. I also replaced the ignition switch. NO LUCK. I don't know what else to check. The kill switch in in the run position. Please help.
Thank you all.

Heading to Mont Tremblant on Wednesday for three days of riding. Any must see, must do in the area. Thanks in advance.

I have a 2015 Sportsman 850 touring with 900 miles. The machine runs great all the way up to 55mph. Once you get to 55mph, it feels like it pulsates or surges and eventually you get up to 75mph.

New plugs and wires
New belt
Running Maxzillas

Otherwise it is bone stock.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

OK so i bought my 570 about two years ago and my nephew borrowed it for a day when i was out of town and the battery died on him. He said it died when using the winch he jumped it and it stayed running for a while and if he got over 40 it would start to cut out. I replaced the battery on it and it started up just fine volt gauge only running at 11.3 fan kicks on 11.0, lights not much difference. He mentioned the winch so i disconnected it and it still doesn't go up. its actually gotten worse and when i parked it today it was down too 11.1. I'm really new to working on an ATV so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

So like the title says we the wife and I picked up a new 2018 570 touring EPS. This will be the Mrs wheeler. She has actually never ridden except for a very little around the house. But we figured it would be nice to be able to ride together with the option of taking one of the kiddos. Going to do a couple of upgrades before it hits the trails. On the short list is Iron Baltic full skids, Guru bumpers front and rear, Maxxis Bighorn 2.0 tires, Raceline Black Momba beadlocks, Polaris front rack extender, and an OGIO front Honcho semi rigid bag. I'll be doing a winch but I wanted to see how the wiring was done before I decide on a Warn or Polaris setup. Also I'll be doing a 10" Rigid Industries LED light bar which I will have John at Guru fab mounts on the front bumper for. With all the great things I hear about the 570 it was an easy purchase to make.

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So like the title says we the wife and I picked up a new 2018 570 touring EPS. This will be the Mrs wheeler. She has actually never ridden except for a very little around the house. But we figured it would be nice to be able to ride together with the option of taking one of the kiddos. Going to do a couple of upgrades before it hits the trails. On the short list is Iron Baltic full skids, Guru bumpers front and rear, Maxxis Bighorn 2.0 tires, Raceline Black Momba beadlocks, Polaris front rack extender, and an OGIO front Honcho semi rigid bag. I'll be doing a winch but I wanted to see how the wiring was done before I decide on a Warn or Polaris setup. Also I'll be doing a 10" Rigid Industries LED light bar which I will have John at Guru fab mounts on the front bumper for. With all the great things I hear about the 570 it was an easy purchase to make.

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Has anyone ever had to change the u-joint off the gear box going to the rear diff? (in my case the middle diff). I had just pulled my trailer up Monument Mountain and went back down to pull my nephew’s trailer up when about half way up (in the steepest part) the u-joint had a catastrophic failure. My brother who has a 6x6 also, came back and helped me maneuver back down to a pullout on the trail. I tried for 4 hours to remove the drive shaft completely, but was unsuccessful, but I did manage to remove the front u-joint from the drive shaft via the slip splines. I tied the shaft to the frame so it could still spin but not flop around and cause damage. In the meantime my brother and his son & grandson took the trailers to the trail head, but just short of that he noticed some noise and upon inspection, the rear u-joint on the same shaft on his 6x6 was failing, he was able to limp in the rest of the way. He returned on an Artic Cat 500 and his grandson on an Artic Cat 650. We aborted the attempt at Monument and when down and back through Camron Pass, about a 5 hour tow through some nasty stuff, quite a bit of it was a double pull, but we finally made it.
Don’t know if there is any other damage, there was no oil leakage, and I did drain the gear box oil and it was clean. The problem I have was after the drive shaft was secured I put it in 6x6 and the front tires pulled me forward and in reverse, but when we started out, that quit working. There was a small clicking noise when being pulled.
Haven’t gotten into it any further yet, but what little research I’ve done it looks like I will have to pull the engine to do this job. If anybody had every done this before, any pointers would be welcome.
And yes I greased it prior to this trip.

Has anyone ever had to change the u-joint off the gear box going to the rear diff? (in my case the middle diff). I had just pulled my trailer up Monument Mountain and went back down to pull my nephew’s trailer up when about half way up (in the steepest part) the u-joint had a catastrophic failure. My brother who has a 6x6 also, came back and helped me maneuver back down to a pullout on the trail. I tried for 4 hours to remove the drive shaft completely, but was unsuccessful, but I did manage to remove the front u-joint from the drive shaft via the slip splines. I tied the shaft to the frame so it could still spin but not flop around and cause damage. In the meantime my brother and his son & grandson took the trailers to the trail head, but just short of that he noticed some noise and upon inspection, the rear u-joint on the same shaft on his 6x6 was failing, he was able to limp in the rest of the way. He returned on an Artic Cat 500 and his grandson on an Artic Cat 650. We aborted the attempt at Monument and when down and back through Camron Pass, about a 5 hour tow through some nasty stuff, quite a bit of it was a double pull, but we finally made it.
Don’t know if there is any other damage, there was no oil leakage, and I did drain the gear box oil and it was clean. The problem I have was after the drive shaft was secured I put it in 6x6 and the front tires pulled me forward and in reverse, but when we started out, that quit working. There was a small clicking noise when being pulled.
Haven’t gotten into it any further yet, but what little research I’ve done it looks like I will have to pull the engine to do this job. If anybody had every done this before, any pointers would be welcome.
And yes I greased it prior to this trip.