Author: Forum News

I went out to start my bike and there was no power at all. Battery, kill switch, etc. we all fine. It turns out it was two corroded wire connections under the fuse panel. They are both red wires with a grey stripe going to the relay in the bottom left corner. (please see attached photo) I cut the bad piece out and attached two little jumpers. One wire has constant power one has nothing. The two wires go to #30 and #85 on the relay.(again, see attached) I wasn't sure which wire went to witch contact so I tried each combination and still nothing. By mistake I touched all four wires together (the two coming off the relay and the two coming from the bike) and it came right to life. So I simply twisted all four wires together and the bike is working fine. Everything is working as it should. I went for a short ride and still working fine. Now there is constant power going to #30 and # 85 and being fed back into the bike somewhere? Is this how it should work? Am I going to mess something up?

Thanks so much in advance for any suggestions.


Attachment 82254

Attachment 82256

Attached Images

File Type: jpg	IMG_8888.jpg (2.47 MB)
File Type: jpg	IMG_8895.jpg (325.1 KB)

I HAVE 08 RENEGADE 500. i HAVE CHANGED PLUGS, SOLENOID, FUEL PUMP AND FILTER AND CHECKED VENT LINES AND ALL GOOD.

THE BIKE RUNS PERFECT IN COOLER WEATHER BUT IN WARM WEATHER AND AT RANDOM TIMES IT WILL START TO ACT UP AS IT STARTS TO BOG AND ALMOST SHUTOFF THE MORE THROTTLE I GIVE IT TOTALLY LOSES POWER. sOMETIME I SHUT THE BIKE OFF AND RESTART IT AND IT WILL GO AGAIN AND PROBLEM WILL COME BACK AT SOME POINT. iT NEVER HAPPENS RIGHT OFF THE START WHEN BIKE IS COLD OR AT IDEL TEMP.
IT COULD BE COINCIDENCE THAT IT HAPPENS WHEN ITS HOT. i GET NO ERROR LIGHTS OR p-CODES WHEN i LOOK. I AM STUMPED ON WHAT MIGHT BE HAPPENING OR WHATS CAUSING IT.
UNLESS IN THE HEAT SOMETHING IS ACTING UP OR COULD IT BE RECTIFIER OR ECM ISSUE. iF I LET OFF THROTTLE BIKE WILL IDLE NO PROBLEM IF I KEEP ON THE THROTTLE IT WILL SHUT OFF. IN WARM WEATHER COULD THROTTLE SENSOR CAUSE THIS ISSUE.

ANY IDEAS WOULD BE WELCOMED. THXS

Hello everyone. New to the forum here and hoping to get some advice from my fellow ATV enthusiasts. I have a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 400 that I've had for about 6 months now. Last month, it started bogging down and losing power when going up hills, and I couldn't get it to go much faster than 30 or 35 mph on a straightaway. Almost sounded like it was hitting a governor. I read on one of these forums that it is most likely the carb, so I got a Dynajet carb kit, thoroughly cleaned the carb, and re-jetted using a 160 as specified for my elevation. I replaced the fuel filter and the spark plug. I swapped out the OEM air filter for a K&N. Got everything back together today and took it for a spin around the block. It seemed to run fine in low gear, but the top end in high just isn't there. I can only get it up to about 30 mph with full throttle. The carb re-jetting helped with the popping noise and the bogging down (it was really bad before. Like 5 mph up a steep trail in low with full throttle bad) but I can't get the power out of it that I used to. Any ideas? Appreciate any input!

Paul

Hey all hoping for some input here

I have a 2017 Sportsman XP 1000 and the stock tires suck so I am going to upgrade
I am going with STI Outback Max Tires. I really want 30" tires but without the bracket lift I can only do 28" tires I am told.
I just don't want to buy 28" tires now to have to buy 30" tires later. I would rather do the 30's now.
I only have enough cash for the bracket lift and one set of tires. I cannot afford axles right now.

If I do do the 2" bracket lift do you think the stock axles will hold up with 30" tires?? Has Anyone done this??

Hey guys new to the forums I just bought a 18 sportsman 850sp they literally had to put it together for me before I picked it up but anyway I got it home drove it and the alignment was off so I did the ol straight edge from the back tire to the front to see what was up the left tire lines up with the back straight edge hits evenly from the back of the back tire all the way to the front of the front tire but on the opposite side when I do the same the tire seems to sit in further like there’s a 2 inch gap in between the straight edge and the whole tire anyone have any input?

Thinking of a 2 up machine. I have not been able to find an 850 T on the floor. Does the passenger seat section remove for those solo rides?

Picked up a 15 SP850, all stock. Only has 72 hrs on it. Guy says it backfired then quit running, then wouldn't start. Check compression, rear cylinder was good but front cylinder had 0psi, none. So I Pulled motor, started the tear down, The top of the piston above the top ring has broken apart, causing some damage to the cylinder head, not sure if theres somewhere that it caan be repaired or not as its not cracked or has huge gouges in it. The rear cylinder that had good compression has part of the top of piston broken too.

Few questions:

1: how to tell if the cylinders are nickasil? Dont you just stick a magnet to it and if it sticks its iron?

2: Posted pics of combustion chamber of cylinder head with damage, anywhere that could possibly repair this instead of buying new or good used head?

3: Is it completely necessary to pull flywheel to split case? Ill order the special tool if i have to I just dont see why it would hinder the bottom end coming off

Attached Thumbnails

   

I have a 2006 Outlander 400 STD. The brake light won't turn off. I have bled the brakes and changer the brake light switch but it is still on. Any Ideas?

Thanks in Advance

Hey Guys,

My 2017 Sportsman bogs hard when I first hit the throttle. It'll bog for a second then pick up and be fine, is there something that I could look into that would be causing this???

Thanks!