Author: Forum News

I know this prob isn’t rite area but,,,....

Have a 2018 outlander 1000 xtp,,,,putting the PCV tuner on & took the one fuel line off to get to injector,,anyway,,,,I can’t for the mother fuc&$#) life of me get it to “snap” back on properly,,they are supposed to kinda click/snap back on,,yes?

I squeeze the two push like buttons,,,which are green,push the damn thing on as carefully,hard as I can & the line pulls off still when ya pull on it,,any tips or anything would be greatly appreciated,,,thank you.

Hey guys and gals ended up picking up a 2014 sportsman 570 and thought i would join here start doing research on things to do and start ripping.

Im in manitoba so anyone from out here shoot me a message

Pictures to come

Hey guys and gals no idea what happen but my last account got deleted somehow.
So here iam again real person here lol.

I just picked up my first can am 2015 outlander 500 max xt with 1200km, Nice little machine going to get some pictures on here.
Hopefully i dont get account issues with this account.
Im in manitoba so any manitabans around shoot me a message.

2017 sportsman utility version. I need the plug to be hot until I turn it off with the switch. Does anyone know the easiest way to do this??

Here is a picture of a Polaris Ranger Diesel Engine recently completely remanufactured here at nFLOW. Please contact nFLOW for all of your remanned engine/transmission/turbocharger needs. You can reach us at 812-402-8282. www.nflowmotorsports.com

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Ok, I don't usually rant, but I'm shocked at what I was told by Polaris reps and the dealership service dept. They said they designed parts to fail!

I bought two 2016 570 Sportsmans new, paid for the extended warranties. Less than 90 hours on them. One of them has had some chattering in the drive system. Dealership said they took it apart and there's nothing wrong. They didn't know I had taken the secondary clutch apart and saw there was problems. I caught them in a lie and let them know it.
So they took it all apart, and confirmed that the helix and plastic buttons are shot and that the belt has rubbed the cover so much that it melted the cover up into the seal. And my belt is badly frayed from rubbing.
Now the shocker. Polaris said thats how they designed it, that's normal and expected at 1000 miles! They have a known issue with dust inside the cover. Filtering the dust means overheating the belt, so they just made it a MANDATORY DEALER ONLY service to clean the clutch system every 500 miles, or you void your warranty! Transfer the blame onto the rider for their crappy design. So, now my $400 warranty is gonna cost me $300 every 500 miles, or its voided? Plus, the items that fail because of the dust, are called wear items, and I have to pay anyway. Double screw me. Straight up crooks.
I will never by Polaris again!

so i noticed when slam her to the bar, the machine accelerates good up to 25ish km's then after that it seems like it struggles, the rpms don't ever max out ( no tach) seems to stay low. too me it sesms that the primary is is fully engaging too soon?. i get the same response in low gear which i figured would at least change at bit and get more rpm out of it if it was the tires or something. so im kinda confused..

the machine is a 2000 polaris magnum 500
10x26 tires in the front
12x26 tires in rear

all clutch spring stuff is stock afaik, i took carb out cleaned it up didn't make much of a difference.
maby the machine is just tired?

should i be looking at a different primary spring as i would like to sling these tires better in the mud as it somewhat struggles to spin all 4 in the deep mud lol


thank you for help im not sure if this is just normal for the machine, or maby clutch sping is warn out, which i have to clue how to check

folks i need advice bike starts fine idles fine and revs perfectly in neutral but when in drive it wont go over 43mph please help thx and loss of power.