Author: Forum News

I took my 1995 300 4x4 for a spin after rebuilding it and the front left wheel almost came off after about 8 miles.

When I worked on the front end originally, I put everything back where it should be and torqued the nut on the hub to the specs in the service manual. It looked and felt secure, but it spun off while I was riding and the only thing holding the wheel on was the brake caliper.

Whoever worked on it before tapped the front edge of the nut to flatten it against the hub axle. I tried to do the same, but maybe I didn't do enough, or maybe that's a bad idea?

It could have been much worse, but I only got away with a ripped strut seal and a long wait for my buddy to double back for the trailer.

The axles on this model year don't have castle nuts or cotter pins and I'm starting to wish that they did.

I there something I forgot to do? The wheel turns in the same direction as to loosen the nut, so I'm feeling this will happen again if I don't add a cotter pin or something to it when I fix it this time around.

Thinking about trading my outlander xmr1000 for a renegade xmr1000 any opinions on the pros and cons of either ? Long wheel base come in handy sometimes but tight trails it can be a pain.

Just inherited this from my grandfather after his passing and I'm curious as to where the vin is located so that I can know the exact year and model. I know that there are many sportsman 5oo models. thanks in advance.

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Just got my son a 2017 and after the first ride we noticed the excessive? tire lean. Anyone experience this or is there a fix?Attachment 98026

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Both are 26 inch on 14 inch wheels, but 850s are 8 and 10 wide and 1000s are the more common 9 and 11 wide.

I recall there being an issue with foot well clearance on the xp tourings. Do the 1000s have more room for the wider tire?

What aftermarket tires have folks put on the newer XP tourings and not had clearance issues?

A couple months ago I bought a 2003 sportsman 600 for a fixer upper. I got it running and driving. It was missing the speedo when I got it, so I ordered one. The 3 in the VIN, looks like a 7 and I ordered a 2007 cluster by mistake. It still lights up, and the tach works; however, I am having some other issues. I do not know where my issue is, but hopefully you guys can help me out. I have read about different issues people have had for hours, but I cant find much to help me.

I have read that my machine does not have a fuel gauge from the factory, but this cluster has it built in, I am not concerned about that though, I am fine taking the cap off and looking inside.

When I turn the key on and all of the lights come on, about 1/10 times the PRNLH light up for a half second, and go out. Other then that, the gear indicator lights do not come on. I tested the sensor on the tranny, and it seems to be working fine. The brown wire to the sensor also has a conection to ground. The speedometer does not work. I cleaned the disc, it did not help any. The AWD only comes up on the cluster when pushing the yellow bypass, that is also the only time the red lights up the "AWD" on the switch.

I am going to try to test the hall sensor. From what I understand, I use an LED, a 9 volt battery, and some wire. I just wanted to see if anybody has some advice in the meantime, Thanks in advance!!

So, over the years i have modified my 2010 850 xp. I really like my atv, but it feels like something is missing. My current setup is a 3" HL lift, 29.5" OL2s. I put the team industries 14% gear reduction in a while ago and I have QSC clutch kit installed with both "washers" under the drive clutch spring. While reading other ppls posts, it always appears you get a snappier feel when a qsc clutch is installed. Mine does not feel snappy at all. It is super smooth on engagement. But it just doesn't seem like there is any power. I had in the past before the lift kit an EPI clutch. With that kit, i noticed my engagement rpms were higher and when it kicked in, you felt it. I have a 2011 850 i ride that is stock. I rebuilt the motor, trans, front and rear diffs as well as the drive clutch/one way bearing. The stock 2011 just feels like it has so much more low end torque than my current setup. I'm not sure if I did something wrong with putting the small gear reduction in and the qsc clutch. I understand with adding larger tires, you loose power and you try to gain that back via clutching / gear reduction. With the 14% gear reduction installed, should I be using the factory clutching? Should I rethink my gear reduction and do the ranger gear reduction that gives you approx. 30% w/ stock clutching or do I need a clutch kit? Any input would be greatly appreciated..

I blew a rear ujoint on my 2016 6x6 650, I have the shop manual and it states to move the axle back to make room to install the new propshaft. Has anyone thought of shortening the shaft to make it easier to replace the shaft. It would be tons easier. I don't want to drop the stinger or slide everything back just to reinstall the shaft. On a car the shaft slides just enough to install the unoimts but on the 6x6 when the shaft is compressed it is exactly the size it needs to be when installed. Small diff a inch of shaft will make but will it weaken the shaft?

I have a 2010 Sportsman XP EPS 850 the 20a drive fuse blows immediately when I move the selector switch from 2x4 to 4x4, even with the engine off and the ignition on. I located and disconnected the 4-wire harness behind the left front wheel that feeds the front differential and now the fuse doesn’t blow. Does anyone have any experience troubleshooting this issue any further?