Author: Forum News

So, I was unable to get my 350L started after being in a long time storage. it had spark, but a weak one. I replaced the exciter coil as it had a way below spec ohm reading. I put the fly wheel back on and tried to start. Now I have no spark? I then went through a few tests: Ignition High Tension coil- Primary: .03 ohm & Secondary 5.97 ohm. Ignition generating (exciter) Coil: 130 ohm; which is right at spec now. Lighting coil: 0.27 ohm. All of these have dropped into spec. I check timing marks, all are lined up. As for the CDI box, I disconnected the black wire and still no spark.

Now, after eliminating all of these I am starting to focus on the CDI or the plug cap. I would assume that when the plug cap is back on the wire and I check the secondary reading through the cap instead of just the wire I should get the same reading as just the wire, 5.97 ohm? Is my thinking flawed? with the cap on I get 0 ohm.

I know of no other way to test the CDI, beyond pulling the black wire to eliminate the kill switch? or test another CDI on it? I am wondering if I fried it when I was trying to start it with a bad exciter coil? or if it was the problem all along?

Anyone have any thoughts, I am stumped.

Jeb

purchased set of HID'S from thor but got no instructions does anyone have them

My friend bought the 860 bbk, drop-in cams, Mav heads (also one of your transmissions-not the point of this thread though) this year and finally got everything finished. He cranked it up and let it warm up for about 2 minutes then rode around his property. Varying rpm's in low gear for about 10 minutes. He noticed steam/vapor coming from the crankcase vent hose but figured it may be condensation in the engine. The next day, same thing...cranked and let warm up for about 1-2 minutes then rode for about 10 minutes in low gear. Noticed the same steam/vapor from the crankcase vent hose. It's not high pressure and doesn't seem to "puff puff" with the piston strokes... what do you think?

Btw, compression was 120 front and 121 rear, leakdown was about 30% (on a cold engine).

He took a short video but the attachment choices on this site only seem to allow pictures or gifs.

Is it worth it to just do the primary spring. I'm not looking to mod my outty but if the tan spring gives me a little more snap I'd swap it in.

I need help I need a wiring diagram to test and see if I need to replace the ECM on my ATV or if there is something else that is messing up with the spark
Can someone help please

I was doing a seasonal service on my quad the other day and I found some metal in the filter cartridge and case, looks like brass and hardened steel and my quad has 6k so to me I'm thinking new engine and tranny. I beat the shit out of it since I got it, I've put about 2k on it so I'm wondering if anyone knows of a good shop that rebuilds them or a reputable wrecker that sells complete engines. I'm a mechanic by trade, but I don't have the time to rebuild it myself. Also looking to see what I need to upgrade to put a higher horsepower engine, because I don't know what parts can take more power on these, and a 1000 would be awesome for the kind of riding I do. Thanks everyone!

new to the forum and looking for advance...i have a bombardier 400 and the starter just keeps running. it has new starter new bendix new selonoid and the switch is in working condition. The atv starter starts at 12 volts with the switch on and the minute i let go it drops to 9 volts which is enough drop in voltage for the bendix to go back in but i could still see the bendix spinning and feel the starter running. any help would be aprreciated

own 08 400 xt efi green. can 35 watt h.light bulbs be replaced with brighter light bulbs or led with plug and go? thanks