Author: Forum News

Have had this issue for awhile and after tearing down the unit the only issue I could find was a slight bit of latent magnetism in the coil....I'm wondering if this would be enough to cause the issue. The unit works fine when the AWD is engaged, but can jerk left or right when the switch is off.

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I bought my new vehicle in August of 2018 as an 18 year old, still in high school. Machine worked great until about October, with about 15-20 hours (150 miles) on the thing, when the speedometer screen began to cut in and out when I revved the rpms on the engine up. Note that Polaris began putting the new LCD electronic speedometer displays on these machines this same year. Anyways, the flickering progressively got worse as time went on. Luckily, I was able to schedule my first 25 service, in which I would get this fixed as well. I took it down to McGrath Powersports in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and they stated it was simply loose connections. Speedometer worked perfectly after.

Few months ahead, after a long winter, the dang thing starts to do it again at about 40 hours of engine time. Again I wait until my 50 hour service and take it back to McGrath, where this time they stated that the connector on the back was broken and now replaced. Still had a problem, though, which I wish I would have noticed at the dealer. The clock on the speedo reset every time I turned the machine off. Not a big deal, but quite annoying.

Now only a few weeks later (60 hour engine time), as you can probably guess, the speedo is back at its duty, flickering on and off when the engine revs up. Not only this, but every so often the speedo will completely reboot and act as though you just turned the machine on, all while I'm flying down a gravel road at 60 mph. The clock continues to reset with each reboot as well. I looked at the connections and connector behind the speedo, and to be honest I don't even think it had been replaced, rather just snapped shut. I would take it back down to McGrath, as that is where I purchased it, but my experience with this thing has not been great. To make matters even a little more difficult, I wired in a diode to the headlights so all three lights would run at the same time, and because of this, dealers will now charge me 120+ dollars to run a diagnostic on it.

At this point I'm almost wondering if I shouldn't have gotten a Polaris, but I do not want to feel this way as I am a huge fan of their vehicles and absolutely love to go riding with them. I'm really not sure what to do, as I do not want to continue to keep blowing money on this thing. Just wondering if I could get any input from any of you guys. Thanks!

I have a sportsman 600 that this winter while plowing I noticed was doggie so I was gonna do a tune up and when I went to change the air filter the air box had about 1/2 inch of coolant in it I cleaned it all out and went about my way checked It the other day and there is about an 1/8th on there again I watched as it ran and is seems to come from the breather line from the head/valve cover. What could cause coolant and yes its coolant it is sweet to taste.

Our 2015 570 Touring with about 300 hours showed symptoms of fuel problems last fall when in the mountains but I mistook it for moisture problems after fording a deep creek. Then it started to backfire occasionally. It was shortly after that it got put away for the winter. This spring I could get it started easily, but it would not run for more than a few seconds after the choke opened. It would only run up to around 3000 rpm and labored heavily to get there. Absolutely no way I could get on and ride. Classic fuel starvation. Pumped out the old fuel and filled with new. No difference. Took the 570 apart and tested the fuel pump. It was delivering only about 28 psi of pressure to the motor so replacement was indicated. Ordered a kit from Quantum Fuel Systems in CA and had it in four days. The kit restored proper pressure of 58 psi and it is now running like new. It included a new pump, filter, wires, o-rings, and locking ring seal. No fuel regulator.

Glad to have it running so well again. It has had this declining pressure problem for a while but I never noticed it until it got really poor. It was a good excuse to buy a fuel pressure gauge kit and was also a good exercise in disassembling the plastic body parts. Now I won't fight with them when working on other components!

Saved hundreds of dollars versus taking it in to Polaris for repair. Cost me about 80 bucks including shipping. I also bought a pack of pump filters -- I now know to replace them at least once a year or two, depending on usage. The only trouble was getting the pump assembly locking ring loose. I bought a tool that straddled the ring and worked, but just barely fit so I had to work extremely slowly because it was jammed up against the steering housing. If you need to do this yourself get the lock ring pliers like the guy uses in the youtube video.

The o-ring that the pump motor presses against was mis-shaped and probably the source of the problem, but I replaced the motor anyway since the replacement seemed more robust. I hope these parts remain available for years to come. I did solder the motor to the factory wires even though the kit came with wires pre-soldered and clips for attachment to existing. Just seemed quick and easy to me. Getting the tank lock ring reinstalled was almost as much of a pain as taking it off, and I soon tired of not having those aforementioned pliers.

I wish to express my thanks to those on this site for posting their experiences and advice, along with those that take the time to video their repairs and help the hordes of us that need someone to hold our hand through the process. You folks rock!!!

I am unsure of the name of the shaft but its the shaft that the oil seal, water pump mechanical and impellar sit on. I have had major issues with a leak since i bought it and when i went to replace the water pump seal i found that the shaft was already broke between the water pump mechanical and the oil seal. So anyone know the name of the part I need to track down to fix this and how difficult is this to replace yourself? I assume it will involve removing the engine? I have a 2002 polaris sportsman 400. Anyone with any advice I would appreciate. I live far in the woods so traveling for repairs would be costly and time consuming. Thanks for the help.

So last weekend i got an 04 trailblazer ran great, owner had just haf it rebuilt, ive started it a couple times and drove it up my street and it started within 3 pulls everytime. This morning i took it iyt and rode four miles and slowed down at a T in the road. It has an idle issue and dies if tou ket off the throttle. It died cause i let off so i went to start it and after 20 pulls or more it fired and rook a few more tries but i got it running again. I rode it fine back to the truck and let off to cross a road and ot died again this time I can not get it started. Im hoping its a simple fix but im betting it lost compression. Is there anything else i should check on before i tear into a motor rebuild?

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Hi everyone! I have a 2004 (I believe) trailblazer. I replace the rear axel housing with no problem. The retaining clip on the right side was loose so I took off the right tire, got the clip off. Now i put it back together and there are splines showing!!! So the clip doesn’t get close enough to the chain and other stuff. What happened???

Hello,
I'm new to the forum. I recently bought a 98 magnum 425. It runs and drives good but feel it's lacking power. In high gear it only goes 25 mph on a good day. It'll crawl up anything in low but still not very fast The machine is new to me so I'm not sure if that's normal? I installed a new belt and changed fluids. Maybe the drive clutch is worn? Engine doesn't bog down just doesn't seem to have enough power.

hey guys, i ride my 570 fairly hard (same way i rode my previous hondas) and im having a couple really annoying issues

1. my steering (not an eps model) has developed a LOUD squeak that no amount of WD40 or oil seems to be able to fix
2. at around 60kmh/35mph i get a wicked shake, tried balancing beads they were no help. stock wheels or aftermarket wheels/tires doesnt seem to matter

starting to really regret going to an American OEM again, this thing is getting beyond frustrating at this point

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