Author: Forum News

I I broke the yoke on one side of the propshaft, and I guess trashed the U-joint as well. Shop has it, and ordered a replacement yoke, and it is the correct part number, but, it isn't the same. It's 2mm to big in the opening for the U joint, and the circlip doesn't clip on the outside like mine does, it clips on the inside.

Has anyone run into this before?

I told him to just order the whole propshaft, I can't be sitting waiting 3 weeks plus to figure it out.

Thankfully I was just using my groudhog max when it let go, so I wasn't going very fast.

Hello, new here looking to replace some plastic , anyone know of a vendor I could get this from? Thanks.

I'm pretty sure this is them but wanted to confirm before splicing and cutting. Are these the high and low headlight wires? I traced them from the headlight up under the cowl where they go from two into one.

The green is the low and yellow is the high, correct? (Picture attached)

I am replacing the stock low beams with some LEDs and plan on wiring them through a relay but I want to use the factory switch to control them. Since I don't really care about the stock housings, any problems with just cutting the low beam/green wire right where it splits into two and connecting? I'd rather not use splice and risk a bad connection.

I can always reconnect the wiring later if I need to for whatever reason.

The stock bulbs for my year or 37.5W and the lights I'm using are 20W a piece. What size fuse should I use between the battery and the relay?

As for relay, is this correct?

Pin 30 - Battery with fuse
Pin 87 - Both positive from lights to pin
Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Green wire from factory switch

The wire on the lights is 16 gauge. I assume it's best I stick with 16 gauge for everything? Can I run both positive wires from the lights into one spade connector to the relay or is there a better way for that?

Apologies for all the questions. I'm more mechanical but if I have direction I can handle some electrical.

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I purchased this bike last year and at the end of season found I had no brakes. I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the old fluid. Now I only have brakes when I use the front and rear together, they dont work if I don't use them together. Also as a side note when I was bleeding the lines with the hand brake lever after pumping it a few times the rear reservoir would overflow. Is it possible that I have hooked something up incorrectly or maybe the new master is bad?

What brand of oil are most of you all using in your Polaris Sportsman? I used Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic (blue jug) in my 2008 Arctic Cat 650 H1 when I had it. Also used a WIX oil filter. I use the Rotella 15w-40 and WIX oil filters for my Suzuki Eiger 400 also. The Rotella is JASO MA approved oil for motorcycles and ATV's. Seeing that Polaris has it's own separate transmission I was just wondering if it's ok to use other brands of oil besides the Polaris brand recommended oil.

Tony

I have noticed that the parts selector on web sites show basically two rear swingarm choices (excluding color). One for 2013 and older and another for 2014 and newer. Aftermarket has one arm for pretty much all years. As the attachment hardware parts are the same for all years any insight as to why the catalog number differs? I would like to swap a 2011 arm onto a 2014 machine.

Thanks,

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