Battery died, replaced battery, getting power to the fuse box but fuses for accessory, drive, lights start are showing no power when tested, will not turn over, no lights no nothing... help please
no spark
05 phoenix 200 no spark--after a ride I turned of the key and then no spark-engine cranks fine-I have his & hers 200's swapped ign control no change-did the white/brown white disconnect--no spark--coil is fine--have power to the 2wire plug @ ing mod-ground wire ck's good--wire from the controller to coil is ok
Aftermarket LED light bar
Next purchase will be a light bar. No way I’m paying $360 for the Can Am setup, even tho it’s plug and play.
What I like about the Can Am version is that the light bar will NOT turn on without the key. I assume it’s how their harness is prewired with the switch.
Soooo...I see a bunch on eBay and wondering what harness works the best. Anyone buy a specific one that worked perfectly? I’ll also order the Can Am rocker switch to match my others.
Trying to save some $$$$. I’m a novice when it comes to wiring accessories, which is why I prefer plug and play, but willing to try a non-Can Am on this project. :angel
Thanks.
What I like about the Can Am version is that the light bar will NOT turn on without the key. I assume it’s how their harness is prewired with the switch.
Soooo...I see a bunch on eBay and wondering what harness works the best. Anyone buy a specific one that worked perfectly? I’ll also order the Can Am rocker switch to match my others.
Trying to save some $$$$. I’m a novice when it comes to wiring accessories, which is why I prefer plug and play, but willing to try a non-Can Am on this project. :angel
Thanks.
Aftermarket LED light bar
Next purchase will be a light bar. No way I’m paying $360 for the Can Am setup, even tho it’s plug and play.
What I like about the Can Am version is that the light bar will NOT turn on without the key. I assume it’s how their harness is prewired with the switch.
Soooo...I see a bunch on eBay and wondering what harness works the best. Anyone buy a specific one that worked perfectly? I’ll also order the Can Am rocker switch to match my others.
Trying to save some $$$$. I’m a novice when it comes to wiring accessories, which is why I prefer plug and play, but willing to try a non-Can Am on this project. :angel
Thanks.
What I like about the Can Am version is that the light bar will NOT turn on without the key. I assume it’s how their harness is prewired with the switch.
Soooo...I see a bunch on eBay and wondering what harness works the best. Anyone buy a specific one that worked perfectly? I’ll also order the Can Am rocker switch to match my others.
Trying to save some $$$$. I’m a novice when it comes to wiring accessories, which is why I prefer plug and play, but willing to try a non-Can Am on this project. :angel
Thanks.
Aluminum Brazing
For the guys who work on ATV's and motorcycle engines and even those who work on lawn mowers, boat motors, chain saws, radiators or any other aluminum products.
Have you ever wanted to repair a cracked aluminum engine case, cover or housing? I have on numerous occasion wanted to close a hole or seal a crack without going to a welding shop to have the part TIG welded. TIG welding is perhaps the best fix, but there certain locations where TIG welding may damage the part while repairing it. Case in point; one half of an engine case cracked below the crankshaft from a rod bearing failure, a piece of broken piston or other solid object hammered into the case from rotation of the crankshaft. TIG welding will fix the crack, but the heat will deform the sealing surface and cause a gap between the parts when assembled.
If the unstressed part could be soldered or brazed with a propane torch, the repair would be adequate and the reduced heat would not warp the piece.
I watched a demonstration of brazing aluminum with a propane torch at a trade show. I was skeptical and shrugged off the demonstration as a professional welder displaying a skill the average person does not have as he brazed a hole closed in the bottom of an aluminum can. I scoffed about the demonstration and was asked about my ability. I have had training in welding, can fusion weld with an acetylene torch (said to be a lost art), can braze well and my training in electronics has endowed me with the ability to solder very well. I said,"I can solder and braze." The demonstrator asked me to try it.
Using a common propane torch, I heated a piece of 1/4" x 1" aluminum bar and as instructed, did not heat the rod and only the aluminum stock. At a certain point, the rod melted on contact with the aluminum bar. The trick was to keep the bar stock hot enough to melt the rod without applying heat directly to the rod. I laid a nice uniform bead similar to brazing with an acetylene torch. I then proceeded to brazing a hole closed in the bottom of an aluminum can (the bottom of the can is the thickest part). I successfully closed the hole. We then crushed the can - the braze did not come loose. We then drilled the braze. The braze was appx. 10X harder than the raw aluminum.
I now have a new tool in my shop. I repair engine cases and other parts in non critical and unstressed areas. If the part can be accessed from both sides, I can fill bolt holes, drill them and tap them for drain plugs, screws or just close a crack or unwanted hole. Using my vertical mill, I can resurface a repaired part to almost like new condition.
There are many sellers of aluminum brazing rod and like all welding products, some are better than others. I only have experience with one supplier and am satisfied with their product.
Go to your local welding supply and ask for aluminum brazing rod or get on Ebay or Harbor Freight Salvage and choose a product there. I advise you not to buy the cheapest product you can find as the higher priced products are better, stronger and easier to work with. I pay about $75 for 20, one foot long aluminum brazing rods. They have saved my customers hundreds of dollars and me many hours of time.
Have you ever wanted to repair a cracked aluminum engine case, cover or housing? I have on numerous occasion wanted to close a hole or seal a crack without going to a welding shop to have the part TIG welded. TIG welding is perhaps the best fix, but there certain locations where TIG welding may damage the part while repairing it. Case in point; one half of an engine case cracked below the crankshaft from a rod bearing failure, a piece of broken piston or other solid object hammered into the case from rotation of the crankshaft. TIG welding will fix the crack, but the heat will deform the sealing surface and cause a gap between the parts when assembled.
If the unstressed part could be soldered or brazed with a propane torch, the repair would be adequate and the reduced heat would not warp the piece.
I watched a demonstration of brazing aluminum with a propane torch at a trade show. I was skeptical and shrugged off the demonstration as a professional welder displaying a skill the average person does not have as he brazed a hole closed in the bottom of an aluminum can. I scoffed about the demonstration and was asked about my ability. I have had training in welding, can fusion weld with an acetylene torch (said to be a lost art), can braze well and my training in electronics has endowed me with the ability to solder very well. I said,"I can solder and braze." The demonstrator asked me to try it.
Using a common propane torch, I heated a piece of 1/4" x 1" aluminum bar and as instructed, did not heat the rod and only the aluminum stock. At a certain point, the rod melted on contact with the aluminum bar. The trick was to keep the bar stock hot enough to melt the rod without applying heat directly to the rod. I laid a nice uniform bead similar to brazing with an acetylene torch. I then proceeded to brazing a hole closed in the bottom of an aluminum can (the bottom of the can is the thickest part). I successfully closed the hole. We then crushed the can - the braze did not come loose. We then drilled the braze. The braze was appx. 10X harder than the raw aluminum.
I now have a new tool in my shop. I repair engine cases and other parts in non critical and unstressed areas. If the part can be accessed from both sides, I can fill bolt holes, drill them and tap them for drain plugs, screws or just close a crack or unwanted hole. Using my vertical mill, I can resurface a repaired part to almost like new condition.
There are many sellers of aluminum brazing rod and like all welding products, some are better than others. I only have experience with one supplier and am satisfied with their product.
Go to your local welding supply and ask for aluminum brazing rod or get on Ebay or Harbor Freight Salvage and choose a product there. I advise you not to buy the cheapest product you can find as the higher priced products are better, stronger and easier to work with. I pay about $75 for 20, one foot long aluminum brazing rods. They have saved my customers hundreds of dollars and me many hours of time.
Arched a-arms
Has anyone tried to fit the 2017-19 850 SP arched a-arms onto an 850 xp? Did some searching but came up blank, was wondering if it would be an easy changeover as the top arms are the same part number.
2007 outlander max cranks but not starting
I just purchased a used 2007 outty, max lmtd edition, 70% of the time, it takes 2 attempts of cranking for it to start, and 30% of the time it takes like 20 times. Checked the following: intake throttle flap, battery connections, engine kill switch.
Any suggestion?
Roy
Any suggestion?
Roy
2006 Polaris sportsman 500 efi
Is there any way to test the ecm? My machine is stalling out the fuel pump runs continuously when the key is in the on position and the cooling fans will not come on
Ebay Auctions from Motoalliance….Ending 3/24
Hey Gang!
We run auctions most weeks with various discounts -- often 10% off or more. Check them all out here....they end Sunday night. You can get great deals on our DENALI plows, IP69 rated SIRIUS PRO lights, FIRESTORM heaters, VIPER winches and more!
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sof...g=200&_fosrp=1
After you click on the link, you can search for winches, lights, or whatever. Enjoy and happy bidding!
We run auctions most weeks with various discounts -- often 10% off or more. Check them all out here....they end Sunday night. You can get great deals on our DENALI plows, IP69 rated SIRIUS PRO lights, FIRESTORM heaters, VIPER winches and more!
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sof...g=200&_fosrp=1
After you click on the link, you can search for winches, lights, or whatever. Enjoy and happy bidding!
2019 Max XT-P 850 good deal or not
So, I’ve decided to pull the trigger on a 2019 Max XT 650. I decided on this model because I don’t really do anything exciting on an atv...just trail cruising. Figured it was the best mix of drivability and fuel economy and low maintenance. Went to the dealer and they didn’t have any. They are trying to get me into an Max XT-P 850 instead. As I mentioned, I don’t need upgraded bead lock wheels, Fox shocks, etc. But I recognize a good deal when I see one; I think. The deal is $12k plus all the fees. That’s $1,600+ off and a 2 year warranty. This is only $650 more than the 650. So I’m essentially getting the upgraded wheels and shocks for free. It does have 36 miles on it already but heck, I’ll put that much on in one ride. Why am I questioning this? 2 reasons:
1. Is it normal to get that much off? If so, does that mean I can get even $1k off a Max XT 650?
2. Is the jump from a 650 to an 850 a big deal? For cruising style riding, more power may not be necessary and gets worse fuel mileage.
I have the atv on hold until I can pick it up Saturday. Thanks in advance to any thoughts on this.
Kevin
1. Is it normal to get that much off? If so, does that mean I can get even $1k off a Max XT 650?
2. Is the jump from a 650 to an 850 a big deal? For cruising style riding, more power may not be necessary and gets worse fuel mileage.
I have the atv on hold until I can pick it up Saturday. Thanks in advance to any thoughts on this.
Kevin