Author: Forum News

Hey everyone, thanks for taking a peek at this thread.
I’ve had a look at other threads discussing this topic. Problem is, everyone takes for granted that the drain plug comes out with ease.
In my case it is spinning freely in both directions, but won’t come out. I can’t fit a tiny flathead behind to give it some backside help out. Vice grips aren’t doing the job either.
The drain plug has had a slow drip for a couple years, and I’ve been changing oil via suctioning most of it out and replacing the oil/filter. I’m worried about sludge buildup and metal shavings over time.
Any tips on how to get the darn plug out would be great.

As for when I get it out, I welcome input on tried and tested ways to get reliable threads and plug back in place.

Hey everyone, thanks for taking a peek at this thread.
I’ve had a look at other threads discussing this topic. Problem is, everyone takes for granted that the drain plug comes out with ease.
In my case it is spinning freely in both directions, but won’t come out. I can’t fit a tiny flathead behind to give it some backside help out. Vice grips aren’t doing the job either.
The drain plug has had a slow drip for a couple years, and I’ve been changing oil via suctioning most of it out and replacing the oil/filter. I’m worried about sludge buildup and metal shavings over time.
Any tips on how to get the darn plug out would be great.

As for when I get it out, I welcome input on tried and tested ways to get reliable threads and plug back in place.

Problem started a few weeks ago when i would be out riding atv would get wet and when i shut the fourwheeler off the dash lights would flicker and would not completely shut off after awhile of sitting it would but now a few days ago went to go on a ride and turn on my bike and started right up but my digital display for fuel milage ect.. was not comming on but the backlight is on. When i got back from my lash ride i did pressure wash so my first thought was i nicked a wire but i have checked and can not find any all fuses are good and still nothing. I read in another fourm that if there is something wrong with the guage then it with run rich and cause the exhaust to burn hot and melt plastics and burn hole in seat and it has done that on mine. Any help is appreciative. And is there a way to test the guage out of the atv thanks.

So I've seen covers on other Sportsman models that block heat on the right side. My next door neighbor was telling me it was a recall part that the Polaris dealer installed on his 570. I know when I get riding my right leg gets very warm after awhile. Anyone know what im talking about and if so is this an actual recall item or just a part that can be bought?

How's it going folks I'm knew to the polaris life i have a 04 500 pred but I just took third out of it i think.... it'll go in1st and 2nd but then 3rd is like neutral and won't go into 4th or 5th I'm wondering if my head will work on a 06 bottom end other then some tweaking with reverse or simply not tying to use reverse

I have an 02 Sportsman 700 with the RM Stator DC conversion it. Well that works but the flywheel dropped the magnets and took out the stator with it. I was going to order the RM stator and wonder if an 04 flywheel would fit if you are using the RM stator. The stator says it fits from 02-06 and someone mentioned in another group said the 04 would not fit because it wouldn't fit the stator. Help?

Working on 2005 MV7 and having Cooling Issues, but these parts are the same as any Sportsman 700.

Here is the long story and back ground:
Bought the ATV earlier this spring with 1400 miles on it, took it on it's first trip in July. Started getting the flashing "Hot" warning while driving 30 MPH on a gravel road (when airflow should have been sufficient). The Fan was cycling. I pulled over and let it cool down for 20 minutes and was able to then go driving through the woods, crawl through mud, etc. with no more "hot" light. Got the machine full of mud/clay and on my way back on the gravel I received the "hot" warning again. I pulled over to let it cool and tried to clean the front of the radiator as best I could. Finally when a mile from home it flashed at me again and I tried to make it. As I turned into the drive way I heard a steam hiss of the radiator overflowing. Shut the machine off and hoped for the best as far as no engine damage. The machine started the next day and I loaded it up to bring home and work on.

Once home, after cleaning things off I pulled the radiator and found tons of mud packed in between the fan and the shroud. This was my "aha" for the issues. I let the radiator soak in a tub of water to loosen everything and then gently rinsed it. I used a gentle water pressure from hose to flush the radiator out and also to clean between the fins. Once it was dried I used a gentle air nozzle to blow out any fine dust and then I also straightened any bent fins.

To avoid heating issues and have better knowledge I installed an electric temp gauge similar to the Quadovators kit with the sensor on the return spout. I also installed the Quadovators fan on light/switch. The temp gauge registers and seem to be accurate and the fan light/switch also works as intended.

I refilled the system with coolant and ran it and watched my temp gauge creep up and the fan did not kick on, even above 220 degrees. I unplugged the thermistor and the fans came on as intended so I assumed I had a faulty thermistor after my overheating issue. I installed a new OEM thermistor and ran it again and still no fans. I did more investigation and thought maybe I had air bubbles causing the thermistor to not read the hot air. I lifted the front on ramps as directed and still did not see air going down as if air bubbles were trapped. I felt the upper hose and it is very warm so the thermostat should be working as expected. The lower hose is very cool (barely above room temperature) so I then directed my attention to the water pump impeller. The thought process was that the thermostat is working but that the impeller was not cycling coolant through with any pressure.

Today I pulled the water pump cover and the the impeller looks to be in perfect shape. I am now at a loss to what my issue could be or how I can test.

Any advice, experience to share, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I can bring it in but not even sure where to point someone.

This is for the UTV guys.


I wanted to take a moment to give credit where credit is due. I've been offroading pretty much my whole life. 40+ years of back country exploring, and lots of desert racing, in 5 different vehicle classes. My first National Hare & Hound trophy, and my last National Hare & Hound trophy are thirty years apart, so I've been at this for a while. I've always been sort of a suspension nut, and early on discovered that a well set up suspension is what makes an off road vehicle truly perform to its potential. I've tried lots of aftermarket suspensions over the years, including Fox, Ohlins, Elka, Custom Axis, Exit, White Bros, White Power, Z-Bros, etc. I am very particular when it comes to suspension performance, and some were good, some weren't so good, and others broke.

My last experience in suspension tuning has been sending the Fox RC2 bypass shocks on my Maverick X3 to Shock Therapy to have their Ride Improvement System installed. They install new custom bypass tubes that have many more bypass ports in different locations, different bypass valve stacks, additional bleed holes, and then use a completely different piston and valving to complement the new bypass tubes. Then new Eibach springs are used, with a true dual rate that is set up for your vehicle and weight. The difference is amazing. This is the plushest, yet best controlled off road vehicle I've ever driven. Every bump, anywhere, at any speed is taken perfectly. This totally transformed my X3, and now it feels like a poor man's trophy truck.

So this is a shout out to Shock Therapy. It is nice to have a company that does things right.

I have a 2001 Polaris sportsman 4x4 that I can’t for the life of me get the axle out to replace the bearings in the spindle housing please help is there a trick to this?

I bought an old 325 Magnum for a back up to our work ATV, which is a 330 Magnum. The 325 is rough, and front shafts were removed so it's a 2x4 now (I assume they had hilliard clutch issues and took the shafts out)... but it runs really strong. I had to rig that goobered up shifter box, but it's working just fine...

Except... we don't have a parking brake. The 330 (a 2004 model I think) has the little lever to let you lock the front brake handle.

This 2000 model 325 Magnum doesn't have that style of brake lever/MC unit...

I'm pretty happy to get a strong machine with good tires and all else for 700 bucks. It's rough looking, probably been rolled a time or two... but these things are tough, as we all know. I found about 4 ounces of transmission oil in the tranny when we changed it yesterday. :eek ...and about 1/3 of the amount of rear diff fluid it should have had. Front was good, but we changed it anyway. So it's not been cared for much at all.

Maybe this brake lever/master cylinder assembly is not original to the ATV? It appears to have a mirror mount on it... I don't know.

If any of you have any advice here, we would appreciate it.

Dan

Attached Thumbnails