Category: Forum News

So i have a 2017 Maverick DPS and i wanted to put my reverse override switch up top next to the sport/Eco switch so i could run my reverse lights switch where the reverse override switch normally runs. The only problem is i didn't want to hold down the switch to stay in override. So i took the switch apart and inside there is a little metal tab that applies pressure to the switch to keep it off. All i did was flip that metal tab around and now my reverse override switch stays on the hole time and i now have to press and hold for it to be off. Just thought id share this with everyone who doesn't want to spend money on a new switch to get this mod. Thanks.

WTB aftermarket rear bumper for my 2016 Can-am Outlander 650 MAX DPS.

Hello,

I am sure this is an issue that has been discussed but I was unable to find a thread to answer my questions. I have been searching for a set of 12 inch rear rims for my 2001 xplorer 425 with no luck. Currently I have the factory set up of:

12x6 with 4/156 bolt pattern for front
10x8(9?) with 4/4 bolt pattern for the rear and 3 1/2 back and 6 front spacing.

I am having the hardest time finding a set of steel rims in the 12x7 or 12x8 (preferred) size with the 4/4 bolt pattern (they're all 4/156!!). Anybody either have a used pair in east TN area or know of where I could buy new?

Thank you in advance.

I am working on a 2000 Xpedition 425 and the speedometer needle is on the wrong side of the pin. At first I believed the speedo wasn't working but after further inspection I noticed the needle on the wrong side. By pin I am referring to the button that changes the odometer settings. Has anyone had this happen? The service manual says the speedometer can stick if the machine is turned off while in operation and driving the speed shown will reset the needle. That is not an option for me with the speedo needle maxed out. Is it possible to reset the needle?

I have recently bought a polaristhat will not start but I'm not much of a mechanic so I don't know exactly what would be the issue. It is an automatic with electric AND a kick start. When i try to electric start it, it studders but won't turn over. When i try to kick start it, it sounds like it wants to start but just won't. So i tried hitting the electric start then kick start and it sounds very promising until it makes a clanking noise. I visited a lot of websites to try and figure it out and i think it could be the starter or the one-way but I honestly have no idea so some advice would be really appreciated. Thanks

I think my RPM's may be creeping up during shiftout after my re-flash and want to give this clutch tuning a try. I have a REVX. The thought of doing this solely based on watching the tach/speedo was not something I was looking forward to though. I then remembered about a GTech Pro RR meter I have brand new in the box! Among all the 1/4 mile, 0-60 times, trap speeds, etc I can also have it graph RPM vs TIME during a 0-60 run which will allow me to analyze my RPM's as I make a run to 60mph or even the 1/4 mile if I wanted to. I can also upload it to my computer and view all the data using GTech's software. It's the closest thing I have to having my personal dyno and MUCH easier than trying to monitor speed and RPM's while riding. I can log all this data at either 10 or 20 times per second and use it to display all sorts of graphs.

I just don't know if it will work like I would want it to. I'm more concerned about the RPM sensing through the 12V signal. One has to go through a calibration process to get the meter to learn the signal based on varying RPM's. As far as the times and stuff, they don't have to be super accurate, just consistent enough to show changes from different clutch weights. Has anyone tried using one of these to tune their clutch? I would think it would be much better than trying to do your own data logging off of reading the gauge cluster....lol

Here's the manual for the one I have. http://www.gtechpro.com/manual/RR4.0.pdf

Just bought a 2015 SPORTSMAN 570 EPS, it came with 27" ITP Mega Mayhem tires. The tires seem to have plenty of room,in the problem areas, but the seller also had some 1" wheel spacers for it that he claimed were to make the ride a little more stable. My question is if I install these spacers ,will they have any adverse effects on anything else( wheel bearings, suspension, etc...). Please let me know! Thanks!

Hello, I am new to these forums. I recently purchased a new Polaris 450 HO. I was curious to see if other 450 owners upgraded tires right away or made other mods first. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Johnny

I have an idle issue with my ATV. I have gone through the carb and cleaned it and replaced the main jet and air jet. There is some kind of jet or something in the carb body under the float bowl that is called an adjuster on partzilla, its number 34 in the diagram. I cannot get it out, the slot is damaged and it won't back out.

I don't know where the mixture screw is I saw discussed in the sticky thread.

I have replaced the fuel lines and filter to the carb as well.

The issue I have is when riding and I come to a stop, the idle will often, but not every time, drop to low and the machine will die. It will start back if I blip the throttle. I did not do this until I ran out of gas, but I have cleaned the carb and done all the above since.

Any suggestions for how to get "adjuster" out, or where to look to fix idle issue? I can raise the idle speed, but then when it doesn't cut off it idles to fast.

Not sure how this happened but I the display used to show the Gear I was in but now nothing shows up other than two lines _ _ on the display.
Any Ideas as to how I can fix this?