Category: Forum News

Getting gas and fire, but will not start. Any suggestions?

Anyone running this kit on their XMR? I have a 17 1000 xmr.

Just ordered a bunch of parts:
Torq Locker
HMF Swamp series with snorkel
HMF programmer
SYA Warrior Riser Snorkel kit


Running stock tire size (30)


Dont want to go the entire clutch route, just want to beef up the one I have. This kit looks promising but 2 things:
1: Can not find this exact kit for sale anywhere
2: Searched the forum and not much mention of it.



Here is the link for the kit: Dalton | Can-Am/BRP ATV / UTV Products DBO 1000 X


Anyone running this and what is your thoughts? Also, always up for any recommendations for other products.
TIA

Anyone running this kit on their XMR? I have a 17 1000 xmr.

Just ordered a bunch of parts:
Torq Locker
HMF Swamp series with snorkel
HMF programmer
SYA Warrior Riser Snorkel kit


Running stock tire size (30)


Dont want to go the entire clutch route, just want to beef up the one I have. This kit looks promising but 2 things:
1: Can not find this exact kit for sale anywhere
2: Searched the forum and not much mention of it.



Here is the link for the kit: Dalton | Can-Am/BRP ATV / UTV Products DBO 1000 X


Anyone running this and what is your thoughts? Also, always up for any recommendations for other products.
TIA

I searched the forums and found lots of similar questions but haven't been able to figure out whats going on. My 05 trail boss sat in the garage for about 10 months without being used. Went to crank it up and the battery was dead but it pull start on the first pull. It idled perfectly and I ran it up the street and it ran great - maybe not as fast as I remember it but it ran great. Battery charged enough to start it with the key but barely. Let it sit idling for about 10 minutes and it purred perfectly. Battery would not charge fully but enough to start it no problem. Ran it around some more with no issues although if I let it sit for a couple of hours the battery would not crank it but it would pull start first pull. Yesterday I started it up, revved it in neutral and it died suddenly and it wouldn't start back up. Waited a few minutes and it started right up again. Revved it hard in neutral again and same thing. Died and wouldn't re-start. Now it wont start at all. Spark plug replaced and it's getting spark - tested with an inline spark checker. Carb issue? I just can't understand why it would run great then die when I revved in neutral but not when I revved all the way while riding it. I need to get it fixed so I can go ride with my son. Could a weak battery be the issue? I always heard that on a carb bike the battery would not cause it to have issues once it was running.

Ive been having a noise coming from what I thought was the u joint on the rear drive shaft. I’ve had the dealer replace the rear drive shaft with a brp one and the noise was still there. Then I replaced the brp one with a mud n wheels rear drive shaft, bc of play and typical bad u joint symptoms with the brand new brp one. Now after driving not even a half a mile the noise is back again with the new mud n wheels drive shaft. It’s a “tick, tick, tick” noise that comes from the u joint area/ transmission area. It makes the noise while I have the rear wheels jacked up off the ground. Then when I ride it, that same area has a “popping” noise when the rear suspension articulates.....could something in the transmission cause these noises? ???....also if it is the transmission, how would one work on it or replace it???...would the engine have to be removed???....any help would be greatly appreciated....here is the noise of what I’m talking about with the rear wheels off the ground...

Ive been having a noise coming from what I thought was the u joint on the rear drive shaft. I’ve had the dealer replace the rear drive shaft with a brp one and the noise was still there. Then I replaced the brp one with a mud n wheels rear drive shaft, bc of play and typical bad u joint symptoms with the brand new brp one. Now after driving not even a half a mile the noise is back again with the new mud n wheels drive shaft. It’s a “tick, tick, tick” noise that comes from the u joint area/ transmission area. It makes the noise while I have the rear wheels jacked up off the ground. Then when I ride it, that same area has a “popping” noise when the rear suspension articulates.....could something in the transmission cause these noises? ???....also if it is the transmission, how would one work on it or replace it???...would the engine have to be removed???....any help would be greatly appreciated....here is the noise of what I’m talking about with the rear wheels off the ground...

At what mileage are you changing engine oil at for the first time. Also what brand and weight oil is everyone using.
Thanks
Kenner

My 2003 Tracter has an issue when I go start some times it does nothing. Battery is good and solenoid is good as well. I don’t hear the typical sprag bearing I have found when googling the issues. I
Put unit in high gear and give it a shove and then back to neutral and it starts. Any ideas ? These units have a safety neutral switch ? I’m lost. Thanks

My 2003 Tracter has an issue when I go start some times it does nothing. Battery is good and solenoid is good as well. I don’t hear the typical sprag bearing I have found when googling the issues. I
Put unit in high gear and give it a shove and then back to neutral and it starts. Any ideas ? These units have a safety neutral switch ? I’m lost. Thanks

Hi there fellow Can-Am'ers,

My father is about to ditch his old Polaris 6x6 after riding mine :-) and can buy a friend of our's 2016 Outlander 650 6x6 with A LOT of miles(16.000km or so) on it. This is no problem as I know these machines can handle miles just fine. Our friend does not take good care of his rides and he know it so my father will get it very cheap.
I've ridden it a few times and it seems to be just fine beside some minor cosmetic stuff, no big deal, but this last weekend me and our friend with his 6x6 took a ride into the backcountry just for fun(and the weather was real nice for once) and in a steep technical climb I could hear the famous visco-lok slipping noise so I guess the visco-lok need some attention sooner or later. The load on the front tires was not that great being a steep climb.
My father is no bad ass offroader(he just want DPS and better brakes to be honest) so I doubt he will ever experience any Visco-lok slippage but I like stuff to be working right so what are our options here?
a) Buy a new differential unit(705401506)
or
b) Buy a Torq-locker

About the Torq-locker...Will it make that ratcheting sound whenever I take a turn in 4x6 mode?