Category: Forum News

I was just reading through my manual. It states that first service needs done at 25 hrs or 1 month what ever comes first. My question is since I’m at my month since buying my 570 should I do the service on it or is it better to wait the full 25 hrs. I currently have 8 hrs on it. Also I was thinking about putting a k and n filter on it and using amsoil fluids. Please advise if there is better options. Thanks

Wanting to hear from you guys who have done 2” lifts. My 3 year extended warranty is out so....... Been debating this for a couple years but I am concerned about axle wear etc. I run the 26”kenda bearclaw HTR’s and they run just a tad big and I do get a little scrub under hard bumps. Not to mention the added clearance would be a plus with the longer wheelbase. Also which lifts did you use and how you like them. I’m strongly debating between the highlighter or for roughly $50 more the superatv which replaces your rear a arms with an arched set to gain the 2”.

Hey guys! I am new here. No clue if this is the right area to post this. I ran thru a mud pit the other day and she did ok. the issue is now she overheats. i cleaned the rad best I could. i checked the fan thinking it was it and i noticed it was not spinning. any ideas why? i checked the fuse and it seems fine. but i am getting no power to the wires that provide the fan power to spin. (the fan was stuck so it might be dead too) but hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

She is a 2016 Outlander 650 xt

Hi all - got a 86 trail boss I bought To fix up and just rebored with new piston and rings. I’ve been working to get it started with the pull cord and I’m getting a lot of fuel out the air in take a overflow of the carb. I checked and I’m seeing a spark when I pull the plug and do a test.

I got a new compression tester (never used one before) and when I pull the cord I get 75 max. I’m pretty sure I should be closer to 120 or st l ast above 100. Is this because I’m turning it over manually and should be testing with the starter motor instead? Or is this due to cold engine....or did I mess up my top end rebuild somehow?

Ok so I wanted to sell my 570 to upgrade to an 850. Was wondering if anyone on hear near buffalo mn was looking to buy. It’s Camo, no power steering, light bar, comes with oil change kit, 2 small cracks in plastic, but overall in very good condition. 1,700 miles $5,300

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Ok so I wanted to sell my 570 to upgrade to an 850. Was wondering if anyone on hear near buffalo mn was looking to buy. It’s Camo, no power steering, light bar, comes with oil change kit, 2 small cracks in plastic, but overall in very good condition. 1,700 miles $5,300

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Hello Everyone,

First post here so bare with me. I purchased a used 06 magnum 330 at the beginning of the summer. My first major purchase other than my vehicle and I must say it has been a complete nightmare. I've rode it twice when I first got it and its been sitting inoperable for most of the summer... First fuel issues -> fixed, then air intake issues -> fixed (I think). Now I have an electrical issue :|

For specifically 2006 Polaris magnum 330's there are no circuit breakers in the pouches and no fuse boxes. There are fuse links which run from the started solenoid to a SSCB (I'm guessing a Solid State Circuit Breaker?). Figured I'd bring that up right away to avoid confusion.

Well I bought a brand new battery BEFORE I had the electrical issues (Duralast gold AGM, they have outstanding reviews *sarcasm*) so I've somewhat eliminate that as the issue in my mind. I will be hooking up to a load bank as soon as I can to test for certainty.

When the electrical issue first started, turning the ignition key with red button in center (on) would cause the starter solenoid to buzz but engine would not turn over (I can't recall if I had power elsewhere). I figured the battery must be dead, but had 12.6V. Hooked battery to trickle charger and tried again at full charge. This time the solenoid would not even whine. I've been disconnecting the positive terminal first and reading the user manual says the opposite (Did I possibly damage the battery or other electronics?). My next thought was to begin checking for voltage to the various components. I get voltage at the ignition key switch, the left handle bar engine kill switch, and the ECM.

I'm sort of lost at this point. If the fuse links blew then I shouldn't see voltage downstream right? Did I possibly fry my ECM? Maybe a bad key switch or engine kill switch? Or possibly just a typical bad Duralast battery?

I do very much appreciate any help. Summers almost over and I'd be ecstatic to end it on the trails. (Not broken down of course :wink)

Thanks

- Jake

Toggling through the instrument cluster Display Area 2 options, I have an undocumented field: it is between “Service Hours” and “Engine Temperature.”

TT and what seems to be a running time of ignition on.

Any insight on this?




MHB

I have a 2002 traxter 500 that starts some times and others not. The battery and solenoid seem good. I see there is sprag bearing issues but mine doesn’t even make a noise like the videos I see on you tube. When it won’t start I pull into high gear and give it a shove forward. Then I put back in neutral and it starts. Is the a neutral safety switch on these ? Help

I recently put on a qsc primary and an stm secondary. Today I had a belt start to come out of my snorkel so I stopped riding. Looks like the belt is more wore on the inside closest to the motor. I do not know if I need to add or take out a shim in the secondary or primary.

Also cvt exhaust on my snorkel is hot enough to melt the plastic. Is my cvt running to hot?

Hoping someone with more experience and elaborate on this for me.

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