These pics come from Can Ams Website / Owners Manuals. I screen shot them from iPhone. I haven’t heard or seen anything about the Traxter Series or Maverick Tail T Series I wonder if T means turbo.
2006 800 sportsman
Hey, can anyone tell me if I can use a 2007 800 sportman repair manual will work for a 2006 800.
2013 can-am outlander 650 for towing
Hi there,
I've got a 2013 can-am outlander 650 with 26.5 pitbull growlers and a Dalton clutch kit. I use my bike to tow a 12 foot aluminum with all camping gear in it during fishing trips (Food, water etc gets pretty heavy so I always tow in low).
After my most recent trip my belt has started to slip on take-off, only after I got home and moved a utility trailer around). The bike has now got 7100 KMS (4400 miles).
Any easy improvements I can make to help things out? I'm guessing I may be due for a belt change. I've replaced the one way bearings at a local parts store about a year ago and now it doesn't change gears as well - I even used that expensive white grease.
So I am thinking a new belt and can-am one-way bearings to help with gear change? Anything else that should be changed preventive wise after this mileage? I did notice quite a bit of belt dust and cleaned everything and a little while after the cleaning I noticed their was still lots of belt dust, is this normal or is the belt running too hot?
Thanks for your time! Any ideas are welcomed :)
I've got a 2013 can-am outlander 650 with 26.5 pitbull growlers and a Dalton clutch kit. I use my bike to tow a 12 foot aluminum with all camping gear in it during fishing trips (Food, water etc gets pretty heavy so I always tow in low).
After my most recent trip my belt has started to slip on take-off, only after I got home and moved a utility trailer around). The bike has now got 7100 KMS (4400 miles).
Any easy improvements I can make to help things out? I'm guessing I may be due for a belt change. I've replaced the one way bearings at a local parts store about a year ago and now it doesn't change gears as well - I even used that expensive white grease.
So I am thinking a new belt and can-am one-way bearings to help with gear change? Anything else that should be changed preventive wise after this mileage? I did notice quite a bit of belt dust and cleaned everything and a little while after the cleaning I noticed their was still lots of belt dust, is this normal or is the belt running too hot?
Thanks for your time! Any ideas are welcomed :)
Bogs and no upper power
Battery went bad so I decided to rebuild the starter until I got a battery.
After the rebuild and New battery it starts just fine.
Took it for a spin, worked great for about 500 feet then loss power and it bogs down. Rode it back home full throttle 29 MPH max. Then it would pick up power all of a sudden, then loos it again. Now it is low on power all the time. Thinking I might have a loose wire to a sensor after messing around with getting the starter out? Any ideas? I don't see it throwing any codes.
2007 Rengade 800
After the rebuild and New battery it starts just fine.
Took it for a spin, worked great for about 500 feet then loss power and it bogs down. Rode it back home full throttle 29 MPH max. Then it would pick up power all of a sudden, then loos it again. Now it is low on power all the time. Thinking I might have a loose wire to a sensor after messing around with getting the starter out? Any ideas? I don't see it throwing any codes.
2007 Rengade 800
Sportsman 500 loss of throttle response / top end speed
I posted this in another thread as was advised to start a new thread.
Have a 99 Sportsman 500 EBS machine that has lost top end speed (half to full throttle no response) while driving.
With the machine in neutral the engine revs fine throughout the throttle range. When I lift the rear end off the ground (jack stand) the engine revs normally in gear and neutral and the clutches appear to operate correctly in their respective full range. ( i pulled the clutch cover off and observed the clutches in action). While riding down the road the primary clutch compresses approx half the distance which coorepsonds to the half throttle postion, from half to full throttle nothing changes in engine performance. I would say that putting a load on the machine is the issue put is this more a clutch issue or more of a carb/fuel issue?
Had one reply that stated that it is a clutch issue..rebuild or replace them.
If that is indeed the case that the clutches are the issue is there a specific part that would cause the symptoms that I am experiencing under load (driving) and non load (wheels of the ground)?
Have a 99 Sportsman 500 EBS machine that has lost top end speed (half to full throttle no response) while driving.
With the machine in neutral the engine revs fine throughout the throttle range. When I lift the rear end off the ground (jack stand) the engine revs normally in gear and neutral and the clutches appear to operate correctly in their respective full range. ( i pulled the clutch cover off and observed the clutches in action). While riding down the road the primary clutch compresses approx half the distance which coorepsonds to the half throttle postion, from half to full throttle nothing changes in engine performance. I would say that putting a load on the machine is the issue put is this more a clutch issue or more of a carb/fuel issue?
Had one reply that stated that it is a clutch issue..rebuild or replace them.
If that is indeed the case that the clutches are the issue is there a specific part that would cause the symptoms that I am experiencing under load (driving) and non load (wheels of the ground)?
1/4″ 4×156 Wheel Spacers
Is there any interest in a pair (qty 2) of the 1/4" Wheel Spacers (4x156)? I have a set that I never used.... then switched rims and didn't need. They should fit all of the 'value line' machines (400, 450, 500, 600, 700 & 800's) and maybe some others!? Used to add some clearance between the tire and tie-rod ends when installing slightly larger then factory sized (width) tires.
It appears they sell for ~$42 on Amazon.... so I'd let this set go to someone from the forum for $35 cash and I'll even cover UPS ground shipping to you (in the lower 48 only).
It appears they sell for ~$42 on Amazon.... so I'd let this set go to someone from the forum for $35 cash and I'll even cover UPS ground shipping to you (in the lower 48 only).
Restoring a new-to-me exhaust
Hey everyone. I mainly lurk but thought I would share this because I'm sure I am not the only one that is disgusted about how much a pipe for our 570's cost.
I didn't want to do the exhaust mod because, in my eyes, it's just a temporary fix of something I wanted to change. I knew eventually that that mod wouldn't be enough and I'd want a pipe anyway so why beat around the bush about it. I kept an eye on ebay for used HMF pipes and over the last month I'd say I came across 4-5 (including the one I bought) but they were all overpriced. I finally found one for $140 shipped and snatched it up quick. I had done some research about cleaning discolored stainless but was still a little nervous because of the discoloring on the end of the can.
What I ended up using to restore it was this: https://www.amazon.com/Lime-Way-Lime...ords=lime+away
And this: https://www.amazon.com/White-Diamond...d+metal+polish
I started by using the lime-a-way and a blue (all I had laying around) scotch bright pad and some steel wool (honestly this didn't seem to do much at all) to get off all of the surface rust I could. It even knocked down the discoloring a little bit too. Then I switched over to the metal polish and went over the whole pipe twice and you can see the results below. From before to after including mounting it on the bike I'd say it took me about 2.5 hours.
Pretty happy with the outcome. I was thinking about going back and taping off the HMF on the exhaust plate and painting the letters black put I doubt it would last. I usually get pretty muddy when I ride so I'm sure it would come off after a few good washes.
Cost breakdown is as follows:
$140 for pipe
$20 for materials (Metal polish and steel wool. Already had some lime-a-way)
$15 for exhaust springs that weren't included
Cheapest price I've ever seen on ebay is $353 but they usually go for $379 shipped.
I haven't rode the bike because I haven't installed my optimizer yet but at idle she sounds like a beast!
I didn't want to do the exhaust mod because, in my eyes, it's just a temporary fix of something I wanted to change. I knew eventually that that mod wouldn't be enough and I'd want a pipe anyway so why beat around the bush about it. I kept an eye on ebay for used HMF pipes and over the last month I'd say I came across 4-5 (including the one I bought) but they were all overpriced. I finally found one for $140 shipped and snatched it up quick. I had done some research about cleaning discolored stainless but was still a little nervous because of the discoloring on the end of the can.
What I ended up using to restore it was this: https://www.amazon.com/Lime-Way-Lime...ords=lime+away
And this: https://www.amazon.com/White-Diamond...d+metal+polish
I started by using the lime-a-way and a blue (all I had laying around) scotch bright pad and some steel wool (honestly this didn't seem to do much at all) to get off all of the surface rust I could. It even knocked down the discoloring a little bit too. Then I switched over to the metal polish and went over the whole pipe twice and you can see the results below. From before to after including mounting it on the bike I'd say it took me about 2.5 hours.
Pretty happy with the outcome. I was thinking about going back and taping off the HMF on the exhaust plate and painting the letters black put I doubt it would last. I usually get pretty muddy when I ride so I'm sure it would come off after a few good washes.
Cost breakdown is as follows:
$140 for pipe
$20 for materials (Metal polish and steel wool. Already had some lime-a-way)
$15 for exhaust springs that weren't included
Cheapest price I've ever seen on ebay is $353 but they usually go for $379 shipped.
I haven't rode the bike because I haven't installed my optimizer yet but at idle she sounds like a beast!
13 Scrambler AWD not working
I just recently bought a rough shaped scrambler that didn't run. I got it running and now i see the AWD doesn't work. When i flip the switch the AWD light turns on so I don't think the switch is bad. From what I've read about the system its AWD and NOT 4x4 so the back tires NEED to spin before the front ones will engage. I had the back wheels off the ground spinning with the AWD switch on and the front tires wouldn't engage. The driveshaft to the front differential spins so i'm wondering if the sensor that goes into the front differential is bad? or maybe the back differential sensor (wheel spin) is bad?
Has anyone seen this issue or have any suggestions?
Thanks! :beer:
Has anyone seen this issue or have any suggestions?
Thanks! :beer:
13 Scrambler AWD not working
I just recently bought a rough shaped scrambler that didn't run. I got it running and now i see the AWD doesn't work. When i flip the switch the AWD light turns on so I don't think the switch is bad. From what I've read about the system its AWD and NOT 4x4 so the back tires NEED to spin before the front ones will engage. I had the back wheels off the ground spinning with the AWD switch on and the front tires wouldn't engage. The driveshaft to the front differential spins so i'm wondering if the sensor that goes into the front differential is bad? or maybe the back differential sensor (wheel spin) is bad?
Has anyone seen this issue or have any suggestions?
Thanks! :beer:
Has anyone seen this issue or have any suggestions?
Thanks! :beer:
Stator Wire Relocate – Might save your Voltage Regulator
Checking your stator wire and relocating it might save you from blowing your voltage regulator. I took a video of where I relocated it. Hope this helps! Cheers,