Just Venting

Purchased 2017 Outlander 570 XT last year this was my first Can AM and was real excited to bring home and show off to friends and ride a new ATV. My fist long ride was H&M trails three-day ride over 200 miles no issues. First impressions nice soft seat, DPS was great, loads of power, turning on a dime nice in the woods. Most of my riding is in Eastern NC trails riding with some mud. I don’t believe in sinking it or spending hours just spinning tires. Fast forward and to date here my thoughts and frustrations with this ATV. The ATV has just over 1000 miles, and I don’t abuse to ATV. When it comes to maintenance I am over the top and don’t patch things up never.
1. Radiator cooling fan motor crapped out, replaced with aftermarket fan $ 90 due to CAN AM only offers new fan and support bracket only all in one over $ 200 to replace.
2. Rear universal crapped out $ 40 to replace.
3. Radiator cooling expansion tank cracks leaks $ 30 to replace.
4. Rear diff right side oil seal crapped out $ 20 to replace.
5. Winch and control wiring quit working $ 300 to replace.
6. Brake pads go through them so fast that I have to order ahead and keep on hand $ 40 a set X 4 sets for the year.
7. DPS would fail on every ride at least 3-4 times. Then received notice that the DPS was under recall. Quad sat at dealer for over 8 weeks to replace. So my ride time was cut short for two months. If not for the recall the DPS is $ 700 to replace.
8. Speedometer crapped out only shows current gear mode and gas level. $ 200 to replace. My decision is to wait on this replacement.
Conclusion I’m not afraid of wrenching on a machine as long as I have the service manual with me or friends/UTUBE to help me through the repairs. I spend more time wrenching on this ATV than riding which puts me in a GRUMPY mood. The heat issue on the left side is ridicules brutal and yes I used header wrap, with all the power it smokes the gas on rides IMO. I’ve had enough of Can AM overpriced parts and this quad can just sit covered up for now. I’m paying it off as fast as possible then CL it. Thank God I have the best wife, she asked me can you survive on (beans and whinnies) for ten years? Just kidding!!!! She asked if you could do it over again what would you buy. My answer a Honda for reliability. So off to the Honda dealer we go, came home with a 2018 Forman Rubicon A6 model. My wife rides the 2016 A7 model and over two years of riding in all kinds of conditions no issues AT ALL……….
Sincerely
Venting CAN AM rider correction previous CAN AM rider……….

Just Venting

Purchased 2017 Outlander 570 XT last year this was my first Can AM and was real excited to bring home and show off to friends and ride a new ATV. My fist long ride was H&M trails three-day ride over 200 miles no issues. First impressions nice soft seat, DPS was great, loads of power, turning on a dime nice in the woods. Most of my riding is in Eastern NC trails riding with some mud. I don’t believe in sinking it or spending hours just spinning tires. Fast forward and to date here my thoughts and frustrations with this ATV. The ATV has just over 1000 miles, and I don’t abuse to ATV. When it comes to maintenance I am over the top and don’t patch things up never.
1. Radiator cooling fan motor crapped out, replaced with aftermarket fan $ 90 due to CAN AM only offers new fan and support bracket only all in one over $ 200 to replace.
2. Rear universal crapped out $ 40 to replace.
3. Radiator cooling expansion tank cracks leaks $ 30 to replace.
4. Rear diff right side oil seal crapped out $ 20 to replace.
5. Winch and control wiring quit working $ 300 to replace.
6. Brake pads go through them so fast that I have to order ahead and keep on hand $ 40 a set X 4 sets for the year.
7. DPS would fail on every ride at least 3-4 times. Then received notice that the DPS was under recall. Quad sat at dealer for over 8 weeks to replace. So my ride time was cut short for two months. If not for the recall the DPS is $ 700 to replace.
8. Speedometer crapped out only shows current gear mode and gas level. $ 200 to replace. My decision is to wait on this replacement.
Conclusion I’m not afraid of wrenching on a machine as long as I have the service manual with me or friends/UTUBE to help me through the repairs. I spend more time wrenching on this ATV than riding which puts me in a GRUMPY mood. The heat issue on the left side is ridicules brutal and yes I used header wrap, with all the power it smokes the gas on rides IMO. I’ve had enough of Can AM overpriced parts and this quad can just sit covered up for now. I’m paying it off as fast as possible then CL it. Thank God I have the best wife, she asked me can you survive on (beans and whinnies) for ten years? Just kidding!!!! She asked if you could do it over again what would you buy. My answer a Honda for reliability. So off to the Honda dealer we go, came home with a 2018 Forman Rubicon A6 model. My wife rides the 2016 A7 model and over two years of riding in all kinds of conditions no issues AT ALL……….
Sincerely
Venting CAN AM rider correction previous CAN AM rider……….

Looking for a set of camo plastics

I have a 2014 sportsman 570 and I am looking for a set of camo plastics to either buy or trade for. I currently have a set of red plastics. Let me know if anyone has some. Thanks

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Gen 1 no start issue

I have a 2007 can am outlander 800. Last ride was a few months back and I started having issues with the bike not wanting to start after shutting bike off after riding. I'd have to try a fee times for it to run. Last loop I made it died in the middle of me driving it. Loaded it up and put a new battery on it and it wasnt getting spark. Left it alone a few months and put new spark plugs in it. Now it's not doing anything with key on. No lights. No power. Nothing. Hooked cables up to battery and still nothing. Checked fuses. All good. What else am I missing to figure out why it's not starting at all? Before when i put new battery in it would turn over and fuel pump would cut on. Would do everything but fire. So plugs right.. now with new plugs after sitting it wont do a thing. I'm at a dead end.

Need some help figuring out what this may be.

Hello everyone first post here. My question is would anyone who what could be make a popping noise coming from the rear of my 2018 sportsman 450 it only does it going forward and in high does and it does no matter what direction I turn (left right or straight)and only at very low speeds just barley pushing the throttle under 3mph. it has less then 10hrs on it anyone have an idea?

1996 425 Magnum drive clutch

I own a 1996 425 Magnum 2x4. I recently rebuilt both drive and driven clutches because the bushings were worn out. The Polaris drive belt has 40 hours on it.

A problem that developed before I rebuilt the clutches was that the drive clutch would contact the inside of the outer cover. I thought that rebuilding the drive clutch may cure this. It didn't.

I've owned this quat for 15 years and the drive clutch contacting the inside of the outer cover happened gradually over the past three months. The hit makes a mark at the top of the cover where the outer edge of the drive clutch contacts it.

There is no crankshaft endplay.

I checked center to center distance, it was spot on. 10.5 inches IIRC.

I used a Polaris clutch alignment tool, they were well within spec (after rebuilding).

The belt is at the new spec, and the free play is in spec.

Now when I had the inner cover removed, I put a level on the end of the crankcase and the engine seemed to be pitched down on the PTO end a fair amount. This would agree with the fact that I can make the noise go away if I put a piece of fuel hose as a spacer between the inner cover and the engine crankcase, in effect pushing the inner and outer cover outward at the top. I can do the same thing if I apply light pressure on the top of the outer cover just over where the drive clutch is.

I'm at a loss. The quad gets perhaps 20 hours of use per year around the yard dragging a cart.

Could it be bad (aging) rubber engine mounts?

1996 425 Magnum drive clutch

I own a 1996 425 Magnum 2x4. I recently rebuilt both drive and driven clutches because the bushings were worn out. The Polaris drive belt has 40 hours on it.

A problem that developed before I rebuilt the clutches was that the drive clutch would contact the inside of the outer cover. I thought that rebuilding the drive clutch may cure this. It didn't.

I've owned this quat for 15 years and the drive clutch contacting the inside of the outer cover happened gradually over the past three months. The hit makes a mark at the top of the cover where the outer edge of the drive clutch contacts it.

There is no crankshaft endplay.

I checked center to center distance, it was spot on. 10.5 inches IIRC.

I used a Polaris clutch alignment tool, they were well within spec (after rebuilding).

The belt is at the new spec, and the free play is in spec.

Now when I had the inner cover removed, I put a level on the end of the crankcase and the engine seemed to be pitched down on the PTO end a fair amount. This would agree with the fact that I can make the noise go away if I put a piece of fuel hose as a spacer between the inner cover and the engine crankcase, in effect pushing the inner and outer cover outward at the top. I can do the same thing if I apply light pressure on the top of the outer cover just over where the drive clutch is.

I'm at a loss. The quad gets perhaps 20 hours of use per year around the yard dragging a cart.

Could it be bad (aging) rubber engine mounts?

1996 425 Magnum drive clutch

I own a 1996 425 Magnum 2x4. I recently rebuilt both drive and driven clutches because the bushings were worn out. The Polaris drive belt has 40 hours on it.

A problem that developed before I rebuilt the clutches was that the drive clutch would contact the inside of the outer cover. I thought that rebuilding the drive clutch may cure this. It didn't.

I've owned this quat for 15 years and the drive clutch contacting the inside of the outer cover happened gradually over the past three months. The hit makes a mark at the top of the cover where the outer edge of the drive clutch contacts it.

There is no crankshaft endplay.

I checked center to center distance, it was spot on. 10.5 inches IIRC.

I used a Polaris clutch alignment tool, they were well within spec (after rebuilding).

The belt is at the new spec, and the free play is in spec.

Now when I had the inner cover removed, I put a level on the end of the crankcase and the engine seemed to be pitched down on the PTO end a fair amount. This would agree with the fact that I can make the noise go away if I put a piece of fuel hose as a spacer between the inner cover and the engine crankcase, in effect pushing the inner and outer cover outward at the top. I can do the same thing if I apply light pressure on the top of the outer cover just over where the drive clutch is.

I'm at a loss. The quad gets perhaps 20 hours of use per year around the yard dragging a cart.

Could it be bad (aging) rubber engine mounts?

Oil lube and filter

Good Morning Gentlemen.

I have a 850 Sportsman XP HO and think that maybe it'll be cheaper for me to do my own grease fittings and oil change. Now, i'm not a mechanic, but i do know a little basic stuff.

My question is.....i'd like to know how many and where the grease fittings are and do i have to get oem specific oil?