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We got a nice little set of quads with a matching Ranger few months back. I think they are ready for the 500 hr maintenance. Just wondering what should be done, what parts are recommended. Plugs, filters, fluids etc. I'm a newbie when it comes to maintaining "toys". I do do work on cars a bit so I do know a little here n there.. (yes I said "DO DO" LOL)..
Any help would be greatly appreciated. :grin

Just rebuild the top end in my 2002 Scrambler 400 2-stroke. It runs great but I can’t get it to idle. I’ve messed with the idle screw on the side of the carb but it doesn’t effect it at all. It also needs kit a little throttle for it to idle perfect and needs half throttle in order to start. Any ideas?

Hello Polaris people!

Total ATV newb here, just picked up a 2004.5 Sportsman 500 HO in blue. Has 3800 miles and 433 hours. Dealer recently rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the clutch and replaced inner CV boots. Came with a winch and Moose plow less than a year old, and has a brush guard. It was adult owned and BABIED, and it shows.

Only thing it needs is a rear brake master cylinder as, according to the PO, it leaked and drained the fluid and the aux rear brake is now inoperable. I will be looking around here for tips on replacement of that.

I'll be using it to plow my driveway and tug a utility cart around my property from time to time. I'm not really a big ATV rider extraordinaire, but my brother recently got a 2006 Sportsman EFI and encouraged me to pick one up. It runs good and I'm hoping to get many years of utility out of it. Only thing I want to do right now (besides the master cylinder) is a cargo carrier of some kind for the back.

So far this forum has been very helpful and informative for me in making this purchase decision!

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Any ideas here? Carb is brand new.

Starts fine but doesnt stay running.

96 Polaris scrambler 400 4x4 2 stroke https://www.polarisatvforums.com/for...d.php?t=174767

Hello all, first post so be kind! Currently driving a 2017 Sportsman 450ho, completely stock but riding on 26” CST wild thang tires.

I have found myself mostly riding bog & swamp due to my location so I am currently thinking about installing a Dalton clutch kit and 28” tires.

Looking for anyone that has done similar, also thinking about the 28” mega mayhem’s, any reviews??

Thanks B

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I installed the RVS clutch kit with the thin spacer on my wife's 2016 SP570 PS EBS and now it creeps in low and reverse, hard to shift into park and high and the rear wheels lock up more.

Wanted to know if those small washers (5-6) at the secondary bolt is what is used to shim the secondary? This secondary is different than the one from my '05 sp700 where you would install or remove washer shims behind the secondary. Or is there another way to properly align the clutches?

I contacted RVS and they said to try the thick shim or double them up but then the take-off rpm will be too high (wife likes low rpm take-off) and they said the shims do not affect belt alignment so I am lost as to why I would add them?

For all the knowledgeable clutch people on here what would your recommendation be? The atv is 4 hours from where I live so I want to have all the right tools and info before my next trip to try and straighten it out.

Thanks for any advice!

HELP? I inherited my father’s 2007 Polaris X2 500 EFI and been having issues with the lights and fan (so far that I know of.) The machine starts fine but don’t have any lights and once heated up the fan does not come on. The dash does say check engine. I did get a hold of an electrical schematic of the ATV. This is what I have done so far.

- Cleaned up grounds on chassis near front left tire
- Traced wire (solid red) from battery to PDM (SSCB #1 cavity H). Reads 12.7V – good there
- Checked continuity of ground coming into PDM SSCB #1 cavity N) to chassis – no break good there
- Plug SSCB #1 back into PDM and check voltage on light output terminal on PDM (SSCB #2 cavity G red/yellow wire) – Get 7.7V (would think this should be 12V???)
- Plug SSCB #2 back into PDM
- Check voltage at both head light switch, brake light switch, and work light switch (all red/yellow wire fed from PDM) – no voltage
- Check continuity from switches to PDM (red/yellow wire) – all check good no break. What happened to the 7.7V???
- I did jumper 12V to the red/yellow wire at the switch and lights came on so I know the lights work.

An odd thing happened last night when looking around. With the key in the on position the lights all start flashing on and off and also heard a clunking sound from the rear almost like a gear shifting. I quickly starting moving things back and forth to see if I could influence it or get the lights to flicker or stay on. At one point changing the gear to park and pushing slightly forward kept the lights on for a short while. After they went off a few seconds later I could not get them to turn back on by moving the stick shift.

I am leaning toward a bad PDM and the gear shift was a fluke and the PDM is just going in and out, but from what I have read the main problem with the PDM is starting. Mine starts fine. Thoughts/ideas? Should I be getting 12V out of the PDM terminal or does something pull from this when the plug is plugged back in? I would hate to buy another PDM and find out it is something else that is much cheaper to fix. Any feedback or things for me to try would be greatly appreciate. Thanks in advance - Clay