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I know this might be a dumb questions, does anybody know what this plug is for? It on the oil filter side of the engine just below the stator cover. Is it something of an oil bypass?

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Turn key switch no power for lights or dash. Kill switch on run, atv in Park and all fuses good used multi meter also no winch power.
Can anyone suggest no electrical diagram for troubleshooting. Thanks

Anyone know what it is? When I search, the posts are all over. This is for a 2013 outlander 650XT. I've seen 44. I've also seen where people ask the same question about my same machine and are told 15 and rotate...etc...Which I believe is for the 1000. Mine has a compression spring. Not a torsion. I have snowmobiles with both, so I know about the turning the secondary to get the proper spring tension.

Manual says :
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE (DRIVEN PULLEY SCREW) STEP 1 20N•m ± 1N•m (15lbf•ft ± 1lbf•ft) STEP 2 180° ± 5°

Not sure what this means. Tighten to 15lbs and then rotate 180? With the bolt held by wrench? Take the wrench off and then rotate? Not sure what that will do.

Red loctite? Do I really need a new bolt? Manual says I do.

Primary says 62 +/- 7. Is that correct?

Sorry for the frustration.

Any good suggestions for handle bars? I bent my OEM bars yesterday and figure I might as well upgrade. BRP wants 110$ for OEM [emoji15]

fully charged battery, turn the ignition key ,i can hear the relays kick on the fuel pump over and over on and off , the start button does not work , i searched for severed wires, replaced the ignition switch , any input would help, thank you

I took the Outlander out yesterday for a ride, performed flawlessly, I come home, unload it, take it down the street and the dash goes blank. It’s still backlit but blank. It was 90+ degress yesterday so I put it back in the garage. Wait about 45 minutes, turn it on and the gauges are back. It prompts me to calibrate the ACS, then, out again. I had a little time to investigate, check the fuse, 7.5A. Looked good, but looks can be deceiving I replaced it just to be safe. Still blank. Cycled the key and kill switch, comes back, again prompts the ACS message to recalibrate, then screen off again. I d/c the plug on the gauge, plug it back in, nothing. Still blank with it being black lit.

I still have tail/brake lights, headlights. Everything is functioning, DPS is working too. So, I leave for a few hours, come home and turn on the machine, everything works, go down the street, stop, dash is on and out twice! Very nerve wracking, that time it did not ask for anything on the ACS. Machine does not go into limp mode. I did run it through some mud during the ride bit it get subjected to a lot more water when I pressure was if after the ride, which I didn’t to this time around. I am up for suggestions?

2012 Outlander MAX LIMITED 800R, 550 miles, 70 hours.

Yes i have read and searched, and cannot figure this out...

01 Sportsman 500 H.O

New plates, new hilliards, oil is correct and so is torque, i have good strong pull on both coils, i ran the machine with the hub off (slowly) and watched the damn hilliards expand properly...however I STILL HAVE NO AWD....

Im thinking WTF? Is it possible both of the actual hubs are shot? Worn out to the point the hilliards wont engage them?

Im frickin lost and aggravated...any help is apperciated...

I bought this last week. I need GPS for the trail map app that I use, I have a cheap phone that I use only for that as I don't care if it gets ruined.

This thing is sturdy. All aluminum and zero plastic. Does not move, flinch or anything. Solid piece for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076F...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Picked these up for $16 on ebay last month. Over the axle bearing greasers.

The good. They're cheap and fit over the axles. They actually work, so that's a bonus. I used these tonight on my 18 sportsman 570 with 160 miles on it.

The bad... Single hole so you have to then them while pumping the gun.